MAF quick help please

[Drake_tr7]

GT-40...doing MAF conversion..mech is confused .. I'm not.. please tell me if I'm wrong. Remove the 6 wires listed in the tech article then do the 2 pin moves in the instructions and hook up the MAF meter right? seems simple to me but the guy at Mass Airflow Conversions is confused...go figure he's got a degree...Am I nuts? it is this simple is it not??? Also just what is the "time meter" signal?

[gadget73]

Check this out http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article77.html

[Drake_tr7]

that's the one I mentioned so I take it these are words of iron ?

[Drake_tr7]

Did the MAF conversion and lit the fires..had an extra wire come loose in the process light blue with a thin pink stripe I cut the connector out of my parts car to identify it's location and add my cruise back in. It goes in pin 34 but my diagrams (both SD and MAF say unused)we'll put it back but what does it do? The motor lit but is carrying a cylinder (probably a fouled plug from starting it on SD)
And another question what will happen if I run it on the stock f/pump for a bit with the 30LB injectors? not all out just gentle driving? I've got the 255litre pump but I also have a full tank so I'm thinking baby it through the 500 mile mark..oil/filter change and change the pump with an empty tank.I redline the motor at 3500 normally, 4 if I'm pissed, but it won't see near that for the first 500 miles.Do you think I'll starve the motor with a stock pump? :confused:

[Drake_tr7]

BTW Ken Ford Motorsports were the ones that told me to run 30's (I know it sounds crazy) but they said the 24's were right on the bottom limit for this motor (cam/head combo)and it does idle well

[Bluegrass]

Pin 34 is your data output line to the trip minder.
With 30 lb injectors, the trip minder fuel mileage function won't be near accurate any longer.
FYI on the injectors.
24 lb are good for 380 hp at a BSFC of .47 at 40 psi fuel pressure.
30 lb are good for 480 hp at the same specs.
.
It's ok to run the stock pump at less than WOT and up to med. rpm..
It's the volume vs HP that counts.
Fuel volume for these two HP levels:
380 HP - 115 ltr/hr at 40 psi.
480 HP - 144 ltr/hr at 40 psi.
When your done with the combination, I would go to Kennedy's in upstate NY for DYNO tune and a chip burn.

[Drake_tr7]

Thanks BG what town would Kennedy's be in?

[Bluegrass]

www.kennedysdynotune.com. (http://www.kennedysdynotune.com.)
N. Tonawanda.

[macx]

Just FYI I've got the Ford 70mm meter that's
made (according to Ford) to run 30lb inj's with a stock cpu.

Although I've got to get a dyno tune to reset
things for 351 vs 302, etc, it doesn't run bad except for a high idle I can't solve (900 rpm).
Even gets 21.5mpg at 2500 rpm with 3:55s.

When I did my conversion, I did find that it's imperative to verify the numbering by looking
at the little tiny very hard to see numbers
in the plug itself. I might have been confused, but I got it backwards when I went by the chart in the kit.

Also imperative to use something like a stickpin to release the wires from the plug -
I can't see real well and didn't do that for the first couple wires I moved. When I put the new ones in, that little lock was bent and didn't hold, so the wire pulled out just enuf to make incomplete contact. I pulled my hair out testing voltages (had low ref voltage to the mass air and the other devices that are on that common feed)and finally tracked it down to that wire being not fully seated on the pin.

As for the msg ctr readouts, I figured out that the mpg is high by a ratio of the 30lbs divided by the 19 lbs, in other words 33% high. I understand that can be corrected electrically by "changing the downslopes of the injectors in the cpu" whatever that means(!) I'm hoping the dyno tuner can do that when he tunes the cpu.

Everything considered, the hardest part is working with those short wires under the dash, and doing the soldering/splicing necessary.

Good luck!

PS - I wrote that tech article quoted above and I did that AFTER I got my system working.
Basically, it follows the kit instructions, and I checked it with write-ups others have done and it matches.

[Drake_tr7]

Thanks Mac all our confusion was cocpit problems and after doing it and muddling through our confusion I can verify your article ie dead on.Hopefully with a little final tweaking tomorrow I'll have a happy report tomorrow night. And if anyone else runs into it the light blue wire with the thin pink stripe goes in pin 34 my factory scematics don't show it.Thanks to BG.

[Drake_tr7]

I do have a happy report she's not real friendly below 2000 rpm ( wants to buck a bit) and I have a problem with the 1000rpm curb idle reccomended by Ford...I'll get that worked out but boy has this mill got some snot hoo boy....

[macx]

Glad to hear it runs and GOES!

Makes it all worthwhile!

I can't wait to get mine dyno tuned
and get my 4R installed so I can
REALLY get it on it withut
detonation or trans worries.

[Drake_tr7]

OK BG Ford said to set the curb idle to 1000 as you can imagine with a stock trans it's a PITA tried 900 the motor don't like it(E303 cam) fun grind but it don't like slow driving..1500 high stall converter? a penny for your thoughts...I like this motor ho boy I like it

[Bluegrass]

This is an illistration of compatability for the moment.
The E303 has to much duration 220/220* and with a lobe ceter of 110* as opposed to stock factory lobe center of 115* and 211/211* durations.
The only way to live with it is to increase the converter stall up into the 2200 rpm range + and some lower gear in the rear.

For example;
The cam in my sprinter has durations in the 260 + areas at the .050 lift points with .600" open lifts and lobe center of 108*.
The engine idles down to 950-1000 rpm but as would be expected the idle and open header exhaust are radical in sound and car shake since the engine is mounted hard to the frame with a full engine plate and front mounts.
These little things are the prices paid for performance in a 351w that runs alky, makes 500 hp + and turns as high as 8000 rpm on the track and still starts with an on board starter.
;)

[ September 28, 2005: Message edited by: Bluegrass ]

[ September 28, 2005: Message edited by: Bluegrass ]

[Drake_tr7]

really? the frame will take that? of course you're not using that as a daily driver. I guess I'm gonna deal with an ornery daily driver..as soon as I cut her loose what a sweet motor...I was thinking 12-1400 hi stall to handle the high idle E303=1000rpm

[Drake_tr7]

After almost 1k I have a very good report even with the E303 cam I have a decent idle at 900RPM (although a little radical sounding..) The GT-40 motor is mean as a snake.. I love it. Glad I put new motor mounts under it when I did the swap and she gets chains along with the blower in the spring. For streetability I'm thinking 12-1500 hi-stall a B&M and either 3:55 or 3:73's
JEGS says 78-93 minor mods for some years...they're full of it...The motor is $3500 $1500 over a stock HO crate motor from Ford you need special intake gaskets to mate the GT-40 intake manifold to the GT-40 heads (they don't tell you that)stock gaskets work on E-7 heads but will give you a massive vac leak on GT-40 heads.Also the GT-40X heads/E303 cam combination (or heads alone) will not run on speed denisty so plan on a MAF conversion...another grand.
So if you do it yourself you're looking at close to 5k I paid about 6...but ohboy she's sweet...yeah I know Ken it can be done...but I drive it every day 8 mo.s of the year and show it

[Drake_tr7]

And BTW BG...after the huffer I'm going to Kennedy's for a chip burn