RPMs

[DocHolliday]

Anyone tell me what the idle rev level should be in a 2001 V6 Sport?

[jonota]

Out of curiousity, why do you ask? And come on guys... SOMEONE should know this! If no one answers you soon, I will check in my service manual cd....

Jonota

[DocHolliday]

Well the reason I ask is because mine varies.... only like 600rpm some days other days she runs about 800 or 900 I feel a low vibration through the steering whell when it gets in the 600/700 range and it just irritates me.... it has 73K on it and I have asked the techs but they say it is normal idle with a load on it(in gear).... I dunno maybe I am just paranoid.... also the engine seems to make a cycling noise ans sometimes the revs dip.... I dunno just curious.... of course I can never replicate it at the dealer....
C

[carverLS]

There is a motor in the throttle body area that controls two valves in throttle body. Those valves make slight adjustments to the air/fuel ratio and maintain a constant idle speed at around 800 rpm. I am lacking some of the technical verbage, but that is the theory behind it. If those valves are dirty or that motor is not working properly this may happen. May also want to make sure your mass air flow sensor is clean.

[ekooke]

It's probably just the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. It's pretty good at what it does but seems to get fooled by high humidity days. RPM cycling up & down slightly at idle is usually caused by the A/C clutch kicking in & out.

[pro-five-oh]

You have enough mileage where you might need to clean the IAC with a light oil (wd-40) and see if dirt/oil comes out of it. See the TECH section in the GENERAL area. smile.gif

[Pete 04 LS V-6]

WD-40 is not a lubricant.

[DocHolliday]

Well believe it or not the IAC was replaced not to long ago..... it seems to idle about 800 after a good run on the hiway but likes to stay low most of the rest of the time..... Maybe I need a fuel system sleansing to blow some of that carbon off the throttel body??? :confused:

[DocHolliday]

Also after looking at derecks tech post on cleaning the MAF sensor that may be worth a try,,,, I put a K&N in there and maybe that is causing some probs....

[ekooke]

Try a can of Sea Foam in the fuel tank; it couldn't hurt. The K&N filter may indeed be part of the problem; even properly oiled, the oil used can still coat the MAF sensor, blocking proper function.

[eL eS]

The IAC is not serviceable and the rev is 737RPM for the V6 auto and manual.

I have the same problem with mine and it irratates the hell ouot of me. I replaced my IAC just a few weeks ago and although it was dirty as hell it did not help much with this issue.

Still looking for the culprit. I plan on doing a tune up on my 00 LS V6 in two weeks. I plan to replace the 3 CoPs on the RH side along with the plugs. Also going to defunk the intake manifold

[floci]

Hello everybody
I'm a new owner of a 2000 LS V6 5 speed. The idle speed of the engine is close to 1000 RPM. It might drop to 950, but never even close to 737.
What is it? IAC, MAF or something else.
Keep in mind that the car was sitting on a dealership lot for months.
Just emptying the first full tank of gas, also disconnected he battery and giving it a slow charge(the red eye was on). It might re-learn the proper idle when I fire it up again.
Otherwise an amazing vehicle. A dream come true. smile.gif

[eL eS]

IAC is the idle air controller. It allows air to bypass the throttle body valve to keep the car idling porperly. It is located on the throttle body it is electrically controlled. It has a chrome cannister about the size of a pill bottle.

MAF is the mass air flow sensor it is located between the intake snorkle the air filter. They can get soiled so periodic cleaning with an electrical contact cleaner that leaves no residue can be helpful.

The car will not likely learn to idle back to OEM specs. There is an awful lot that goes into keeping the car at idle. Mostly all sensors.

Mine seldomly idles right at 737 but it did improve a little when I replaced my IAC. Plus the gauge is not a good method for reading. If I put my scan tool on the car at idle it reads almost perfect usually in the range of 725 to 750.

I see an occasional dip like you said but when I look at the rpm gauge in the dash it looks nearly 900 to 1000.

[DocHolliday]

I noticed something unusual the other day.... my RPMs dip when I come to a red light bbut not if the AC or heat is on...... also RPMs dip if I am in park and roll 2 windows down at one time...... any thoughts? :confused:

[ekooke]

quote:Originally posted by DocHolliday:
I noticed something unusual the other day.... my RPMs dip when I come to a red light bbut not if the AC or heat is on...... also RPMs dip if I am in park and roll 2 windows down at one time...... any thoughts? :confused:

If the AC is on, the IACV is keeping the RPM up, compensating for added load.
Rolling both windows down at the same time causes a voltage drop & forces the alternator to produce more, which puts an added load on the engine.

[DocHolliday]

OK but should the voltage dip the RPMS that much or is it symptomatic of the alternator going? it just seems like the engine does not keep the elec system strong enough for all of the functions this loaded vehicle has.....

[ekooke]

quote:Originally posted by DocHolliday:
OK but should the voltage dip the RPMS that much or is it symptomatic of the alternator going? it just seems like the engine does not keep the elec system strong enough for all of the functions this loaded vehicle has.....

If in doubt, invest in a cigar lighter plug-in voltmeter. Better yet, permanently install a voltmeter gauge. Ford's charging system warnings are quite feeble, and an onboard VM could save you a long walk.