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chefbruce
April 29th, 2003, 07:54 PM
Just had rotors turned and new pads but now when I really have to brake a pretty good shake in the steering wheel...any ideas

thanks as always
Bruce smile.gif

ekooke
April 30th, 2003, 09:21 AM
Assuming the front end is "tight", pads aren't completely seated yet, or the brakes need to be properly bled. BTW, I find that ceramic pads work best on the Mark VIII, and there's less brake dust buildup on the wheels (bonus).

chefbruce
April 30th, 2003, 04:11 PM
thank you muchly,front end tight, prob pads not fully seated just got a little nervous about her and didn't want to create any damage....I dont know if they gave me ceramic pads but i'll check ....thanks

Bruce :D

rapz07
May 3rd, 2003, 09:21 AM
Turning rotors on later model Ford/Mercury/Lincolns is not exactly the best idea. There's a slim chance that the rotor wasn't chucked straight (this happens more times than you might imagine) with the result that you feel the effect as a pulsing on the steering wheel. Secondly, there's not a lot of "meat" in newer rotors - in fact most places now will not regrind newer rotors anymore as there is a Federally mandated minimum thickness per rotor. If they grind below that, the penalties are fairly expensive. Plus the chance of a law suit in today's law-suit happy country just doesn't make grinding rotors worth while anymore.

The best option normally is to replace the rotors with new units. At one time, the rotor was part of the wheel hub, but now on these cars, the rotor is a separate unit and not all that expensive to replace (about $30-$35 each at Autozone and Napa, for instance).

Brake pads: The ceramic units are good, but for really severe braking I like the carbon fiber pads because they don't seem to change their characteristics as you heat them up. They're not that expensive and they last much longer than regular pads under heavy usage, I've found.

chefbruce
May 3rd, 2003, 01:07 PM
thank you very much i learned alot...Bruce :D