DaKat
January 9th, 2000, 10:14 AM
Saw this topic pop up in another forum - thought we might move it here. I've seen several different answers/theories on this so I'll just list them here (you can weed them out for yourself - they were not necessarily proposed specifically for Lincolns but the same basics should apply). I don't endorse any particular solution proposed here - just info gathered from various sources!
Cloudy lens fixes:
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>"BLUE MAGIC" chrome and aluminum polish
<LI>2000 grit sand paper and water
<LI>a product called "Nu-Lite" sold by Mustang Parts Specialties (770-867-2644)-cleans/protect head/tail lights and removes nasty yellow
<LI>Fixing them nasty 5.0 Hazelights
--an excerpt from 5.0 Mustang Magazine
[/list]
<LI>It's a common problem--the hazy, milky finish that eventually appears on all 5.0 headlights. One solution is to just remove the haze from your headlights. Head-lights become hazy from the sun's intense heat and burning ray--much like how we get burned if we stay out in the sun too long. The products you'll need are 600-and 1,200-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, Fastwood's Autosol polish, a roll of masking tape and a chamois. Of course, you'll also need a high-speed buffer with a new buffing pad. It's ideal to have a two-speed buffer to help control the speed of the buffing pad, but if you don't have that luxury, use the slightest amount of pressure on the trigger of the buffer--it doesn't need to spin at 9,000 rpm to get the job done. Furthermore, doing so may burn the headlights and leave permanent scars.
<LI>Mask off the area around the headlights with masking tape so as not to sand any area on the hood or bumper cover.
<LI>Start by sanding with 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Only the slightest bit of water pressure is neaded in order to properly sand the lights. You'll only need to sand on the lights for 5-10 minutes with each grit sandpaper. After using the 60 grit sandpaper, move on to the 1200-grit paper and repeat the sanding process.
<LI>break out the buffer and the Eastwood Autosol polish. If your buffer is not a two-speed model, just using the slightest amount of trigger pressure will get the job done. You don't want the buffing wheel spinning too fast because you could end up burning the headlight's surface by heating it up too. Use the buffers edge, not the flat surface.
<LI> Apply the polish using an old, cotton T-shirt, then use the buffer to bring out the shine. The part number for the tube Is 13170, and in can form, 13175.
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> seems like I've also seen a baking soda concoction of some type somewhere?
[/list]
______
Now, on to the condensation problem...
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>Assuming you have no holes in the lens or the case, you may be getting moisture into the housings via the seal around the bulb sockets. You can purchase the individual gaskets for the headlamps (worst case, you buy a replacement socket at Pep Boys, Auto Zone, etc.), but the fog lamps may be a bit tougher. Try sealing them with something like Ultra Copper RTV (extra high temperature sealant). Also, use a hair dryer, if necessary, to be sure that the inside of the assembly is free of moisture before you seal it. Even humid air at room temperature will condense on a cool evening, so start out with dry air
<LI>1. Very carefully pry the lens off of the reflector housing using a wide stiff putty knife or similar tool.
2. Thoroughly clean/scrape the old sealant out of the groove that the lens sits in. Clean the reflector and the lens with glass cleaner.
3. Completely fill the groove with clear RTV.
4. Replace the lens and secure with tape until dry. (You will want to pull the car into a heated garage if it is less than 60 degrees outside)
Keep the bulbs out until the RTV is set up. The fumes from the vulcaniziing process will eat the neoprene washer that goes around the bulb.
[/list]
Hope this helps you guys -
------------------
DaKat
'95 LSC/DOHC/290hp/K&N
. . .puts "The Whoosh" on 'em!
Cloudy lens fixes:
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>"BLUE MAGIC" chrome and aluminum polish
<LI>2000 grit sand paper and water
<LI>a product called "Nu-Lite" sold by Mustang Parts Specialties (770-867-2644)-cleans/protect head/tail lights and removes nasty yellow
<LI>Fixing them nasty 5.0 Hazelights
--an excerpt from 5.0 Mustang Magazine
[/list]
<LI>It's a common problem--the hazy, milky finish that eventually appears on all 5.0 headlights. One solution is to just remove the haze from your headlights. Head-lights become hazy from the sun's intense heat and burning ray--much like how we get burned if we stay out in the sun too long. The products you'll need are 600-and 1,200-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, Fastwood's Autosol polish, a roll of masking tape and a chamois. Of course, you'll also need a high-speed buffer with a new buffing pad. It's ideal to have a two-speed buffer to help control the speed of the buffing pad, but if you don't have that luxury, use the slightest amount of pressure on the trigger of the buffer--it doesn't need to spin at 9,000 rpm to get the job done. Furthermore, doing so may burn the headlights and leave permanent scars.
<LI>Mask off the area around the headlights with masking tape so as not to sand any area on the hood or bumper cover.
<LI>Start by sanding with 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Only the slightest bit of water pressure is neaded in order to properly sand the lights. You'll only need to sand on the lights for 5-10 minutes with each grit sandpaper. After using the 60 grit sandpaper, move on to the 1200-grit paper and repeat the sanding process.
<LI>break out the buffer and the Eastwood Autosol polish. If your buffer is not a two-speed model, just using the slightest amount of trigger pressure will get the job done. You don't want the buffing wheel spinning too fast because you could end up burning the headlight's surface by heating it up too. Use the buffers edge, not the flat surface.
<LI> Apply the polish using an old, cotton T-shirt, then use the buffer to bring out the shine. The part number for the tube Is 13170, and in can form, 13175.
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI> seems like I've also seen a baking soda concoction of some type somewhere?
[/list]
______
Now, on to the condensation problem...
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>Assuming you have no holes in the lens or the case, you may be getting moisture into the housings via the seal around the bulb sockets. You can purchase the individual gaskets for the headlamps (worst case, you buy a replacement socket at Pep Boys, Auto Zone, etc.), but the fog lamps may be a bit tougher. Try sealing them with something like Ultra Copper RTV (extra high temperature sealant). Also, use a hair dryer, if necessary, to be sure that the inside of the assembly is free of moisture before you seal it. Even humid air at room temperature will condense on a cool evening, so start out with dry air
<LI>1. Very carefully pry the lens off of the reflector housing using a wide stiff putty knife or similar tool.
2. Thoroughly clean/scrape the old sealant out of the groove that the lens sits in. Clean the reflector and the lens with glass cleaner.
3. Completely fill the groove with clear RTV.
4. Replace the lens and secure with tape until dry. (You will want to pull the car into a heated garage if it is less than 60 degrees outside)
Keep the bulbs out until the RTV is set up. The fumes from the vulcaniziing process will eat the neoprene washer that goes around the bulb.
[/list]
Hope this helps you guys -
------------------
DaKat
'95 LSC/DOHC/290hp/K&N
. . .puts "The Whoosh" on 'em!