Rear Brake Caliper

[quietgiant]

HELP! I'm in the middle of doing rear brakes and can't compress the caliper. I assume it is a screw in caliper but I don't know how to turn it. Will you help this ignorant back yard mechanic? My car is in pieces and I would appreciate you help.

[BLUECOLLAR]

QuietGiant, You really need the tool to make it easy. Its not just turning it, its turning while putting pressure on the piston. I've done it before with a "good wide set" of needlenose, but it didn't work all the time. You really need to go to autozone or something and get one.

[quietgiant]

Originally posted by BLUECOLLAR:
QuietGiant, You really need the tool to make it easy. Its not just turning it, its turning while putting pressure on the piston. I've done it before with a "good wide set" of needlenose, but it didn't work all the time. You really need to go to autozone or something and get one.
Rightee Tightee, Leftee Loosee?

[quietgiant]

Originally posted by quietgiant:
Originally posted by BLUECOLLAR:
QuietGiant, You really need the tool to make it easy. Its not just turning it, its turning while putting pressure on the piston. I've done it before with a "good wide set" of needlenose, but it didn't work all the time. You really need to go to autozone or something and get one.
Rightee Tightee, Leftee Loosee?
THANKS A LOT! I got the right tool and the world is a better place. Even with the special tool it was fun...I can imagin the fun YOU had with your needlenose.
Thanks again. Quiet Giant.

[90LSC]

QG, please tell me what the name of that tool is and how much is it?
I will very soon be doing the same to mine.

[quietgiant]

The one I got was from Autozone as suggested by Bluecollar. Made by OEM and called "Disc Brake Piston Tool" it cost me $10. When using it, open the bleeder valve as you crank the piston, close as you stop. Worked like a charm. Thanks again Bluecollar.

[Michael VII LSC/SE]

I bought the tool from O'Reilys Which didn't fit then found one at Pep Boys. Wish I had tried the bleed valve.

Question??????

I had to trim the ears on the brake pads with a file (paint then metal) to get the pads on with the original clips or whatever the parts are called. But I'm afraid the fit may be too tight. Is this supposed to be a close toleranced fit? Or should they be looser? Could this be causing my ABS to ocasionally chatter and the lite to come on?

[BLUECOLLAR]

Michael, If in dought, set the pad back in (WITHOUT CLIP)and put a feeler gauge in between the pad "end" and the spindle(You need to have .045). Unless you messed up the sensor or sensor ring, I don't see how just doing the brakes would cause the light to come on. Did you do the front brakes also? If so, it probably changed the air gap on the front sensors(difference in bearing preload etc.). Let me know if you did the front(you can adjust the gap).

[This message has been edited by BLUECOLLAR (edited April 06, 2001).]

[Michael VII LSC/SE]

Yes. I did all four at the same time. The occansional stutter braking and the light coming on was going on before the brake job. I thought the new brakes would do the trick. It did for a couple of months then just recently started doing the stutter and the light coming on. I can kill the ignition and the light will reset off. Any ideas?

When I installed the rear I put them them in snug. So does the .045 gap leave room for the clips or should the gap be with the clips.

I some times think I am hearing a little bearing noise in the front wheels. Could that have changed the airgap you mentioned?

[BLUECOLLAR]

Michael, If it was doing it before you did the brakes, and went away for a short time after you did the brakes, that leads me to beleive that it is the air gap. Jack up 1 side at a time, put 1 hand at 12 o'clock and the other at 6 o'clock, move the tire in and out. Do you feel any loose play? If you do...I'd go inside and check the bearings. If they're o.k., just put'em back in and go just a bit tighter on the preload than before. After this, go for a good test drive. With any luck, that'll take care of it. When the bearings aren't tight, the air gap changes when the wheel goes over bumps(sensor stays still while the wheel goes in and out).
You get your measurements WITHOUT the clip in.

[This message has been edited by BLUECOLLAR (edited April 11, 2001).]