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sotexlscman
June 18th, 2001, 10:08 AM
I discussed a problem I had with my tranny this weekend on my way up to Austin. Pro 5.0 helped out and confirmed that my tranny cratered. I lost O/D and also my tranny shifts into third at take-off around 20mph. That creates a problem when you want to merge into traffic. It will shift into O/D eventually, but when I accelerate, it slips. I still have 1, 2, & 3 so I can still get to work.

He let me know that I should have it done correctly. I totally agree with that advise, but down here in South Texas, I have had horrible luck with transmission repair centers. I don't know if the Ford or Lincoln dealer would be an option either. I have heard some stories about these also. I am in charge of a fleet of vehicles at my office and have had many opportunities to get work done. I haven't had to get a rebuild for about two years and that was a nightmare. There used to be a guy down here that was pretty good, but he's gone. It is pretty sad when you can't rely on a national transmission shop.

I contacted Mark, a late-model Mustang expert, who is a friend of mine. He and some of his friends are into the 'Stangs big time down here. He told me of a guy that he knows who might do it.

The reason I'm writing this topic is I'm wondering what troubles and success y'all have had. Are there any special quirks that I need to watch for. I rebuilt a C4 in my '66 Mustang about 25 years ago and that
was some work. I left out one clutch plate and you know what happened!! I can't imagine what is involved in today's transmissions. I don't even want to attempt to try this one.

Please let me know,
Dean



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Lscman
June 18th, 2001, 12:37 PM
If you only have crooks rebuilding transmissions in your area, I feel sorry for you. I suppose trans shops that cheat and only replace a couple parts are common. The mid-80's and newer AOD trans has no real weak points for sub-325 HP cars. An AOD rebuild should be completely routine. If it simply slips for you, a standard $150 rebuild kit should make it last another 130K miles. In my area, there are several independent jobber shops that are Recon dealers. They rebuild trannys for used car dealers, fleets and others and gladly accept outside business. Their only drawback is the lack of a nationwide warranty and sometimes it takes a few weeks to fit you in their tight schedule. At these shops, it will cost about $700 total for them to remove, rebuild and reinstall. For that price the converter, all clutches, seals, gaskets & wearable are replaced. For a measily extra $100 you can get heavy duty performance clutches and a higher stall converter and an A-Servo overdrive assy substituted. If you really have that much trouble finding a shop in your area, buying a mailorder tranny may be the only option. The R&R effort will take a weekend for a novice. The biggest headache is removing the rusted-on exhaust and removing the starter.

[This message has been edited by Lscman (edited June 18, 2001).]

pro-five-oh
June 18th, 2001, 01:47 PM
I spent a lot of time finding tranny shop in Houston that would do a good AOD rebuild. I was pressed for time (as any college student is) so I went with a Atlas transmission shop that had experience with hi-po AODs. They were on the expensive side but they did all the Crown Vic cop cars in my county. They did it right: I could have paid less, but well, I was in a time crunch.

Ask for these things when getting a mild-AOD rebuild:

1. Thunderbird Supercoupe "A" servo

2. Performance rebuild kit with a kevlar OD belt. (my kit came with Raybestos "Blue Plate" clutches for 3rd gear)

3. large tranny cooler (mine is about 8"x10")

4. mild shift kit (Baumann is the easiest to install but I just had them install what they had on the shelf)

5. 2200rpm stall converter (B&M rebuilt). You can go higher stall if you plan on making your Mark into a hot-cammed 12sec quarter miler, but otherwise the 2200 is fine and dandy. Stock is 1600 or 1800rpm, so this will make a nice difference around town.

6. Brass bushing for TV cable

I also swapped radiators at this time since mine was 11 years old...Pep boys has a 3-core radiator for $98 (that's a total bargain) and let them install it with the cooler.

I might be overlooking something, but this was my experience with getting a good AOD for a mostly stock Ford. You'll do VERY good to get all this stuff in your Mark...your tranny will hold up nicely if you one day decide to add a blower and make 400hp!

[This message has been edited by pro-five-oh (edited June 18, 2001).]

BLUECOLLAR
June 18th, 2001, 02:55 PM
I know of a super good transmission place here in Jacksonville, that has all there built trannys run on a tranny dyno to find any potential problems...BEFORE ITS INSTALLED. Its $750 including a converter(they do there own converters). The warranty on the trans itself is 12 months 12,000 miles. If it goes bad out of there area, they pay up to $32 an hour and up to 5 hours labor. It won't pay to have it done completely, but it would sure help!
If your interested, call MARK SPEED at American Transmission 1-800-233-3766. Make sure you tell him you were refered by Eddie Spinks. If you don't, the normal cost is around $950 for the same trans.

stinkin' Lincoln
June 18th, 2001, 04:20 PM
$750 is a pretty good deal for a rebuilt, but it it simply rebuilt to stock specs?

if you're planning on dropping the car off somewhere and having the tranny rebuilt, plan on spending about $2k

if you've got $2k to spend, might I have a chance at talking you into swapping a Tremec in there? http://www.lincolnsonline.com/ubb/smile.gif

I love my 5 sp Mark VII!

Forrest

WILLIAM SHIREY
June 19th, 2001, 06:03 AM
Would it be worth having the rear oil seal on the engine changed when the tranny's dropped? I had the transmission on my Astro van rebuilt at Mr. Transmission and now I've noticed the rear seal has a small leak. You'd think it would be a no-brainer for the shop to check or offer to replace this seal. I regret not thinking of it myself!

sotexlscman
June 19th, 2001, 10:23 AM
UPDATE!!!

I am amazed at the help this site gives on the Mark VII. I try to check this site daily, and it sure has paid off. There are a lot of helpful people out there and I am truly impressed.

When I was under the hood looking for the EVR filter to clean because of another topic I posted, I noticed the TV cable off of the throttle body. I just checked that darn grommet a few weeks ago and it looked fine!! I would not have known to even consider that unless I had seen the topic about the grommet a few weeks ago. I wish I had thought of it on the road this weekend. I tie-wrapped it last night to see what would happen. I held my breath and what do you know, it shifted fine. I have O/D back and it goes up to the RPM's it's supposed to before it shifts through the other gears. I did notice a little softness between second and third, but that was when I got on it. I realize that it's probably a little weak, but that gives me a little more time to get the money together to do it right.

I forgot all about the EVR filter. I will look for it later.

I will go to the dealership for the grommet later today. Is there a better designed one that will hold up better? The one I remember seeing there was black rubber.

I really appreciate all the help y'all gave me. I apologize for the false alarm, but will print this topic so I will know what to do in the future.

Thanks again,
Dean

mark7lover
June 19th, 2001, 12:21 PM
If anyone could post a pic of the TV cable, exactly where it is located along with what it looks like when it is perfect working condition I would appreciate it so I could check it often. Just a request. thanks, Bruce 1991 Lsc- 132,600

pro-five-oh
June 19th, 2001, 08:06 PM
SoTEX: get a brass bushing for the TV cable. It prevents the failure of the stock unit and can be found at any Ford dealer for about $2. Let's hope that loose cable didn't do any serious damage to the tranny.

Forrest brought up a good point. For the price of a built-AOD you can do a 5-spd swap. This will instantly give you more power to the wheels and make the car a lot more fun. I would have done the same provided I did not have family members who only drive an auto and INSIST that my car be that way too. http://www.lincolnsonline.com/ubb/smile.gif

William, any tranny shop should replace the rear main seal in a heartbeat if you ask them too. The shop that did my AOD replaced it without me even asking for it!!!

Mark7lover, maybe this will help: the TV cable is attached to your throttle lever and has a spring attached to it. It attaches to the throttle lever by a bushing and a cotter pin.

Lscman
June 19th, 2001, 08:26 PM
The brass TV cable restraint is better than the factory one. If you replace it with stock non-metallic, it will fail again in year 2013. In my area, independent shops charge around $700 to remove, completely rebuild and reinstall a tranny with a fresh converter. Front wheel drive cars like the Taurus and Continental cost $900-$1100 for a complete drive in and out job. The $2K price sounds high even for an AAMCO or Ford dealer with nationwide warranty. My 4 wheel drive minivan tranny job cost $2200 at a Ford dealer, although it was covered. It has a transfer case to deal with and after the tranny blew they had to replace the converter, starter, flywheel and pump too.