Power Steering Pump Noise

[Michael VII LSC/SE]

Ok, you Know the noise power steering makes when you've turned the wheels all the way and you try to turn more? Well I have been hearing this noise more than I want. I asked about additives to quiet this condition and was recomended Lucus oil additive. I went to put some in and took out some fluid and noticed the color was near black :( (combined trans & pwr steering fluid)(dark brown?) and maybe a little burned smell :eek: :eek: . Well I will certainly be changing the fluid soon. Sure could use some input on the fluid and the noise. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[freezerLsc]

I dont think theres much you can do about it (cheaply anyway).
mine was making the same noise . I changed the fluid and the noise got a little better.
within a week or so the fluid was black again. I changed it two more times and now the fluid has been clear for months...
Still noisy though.
Does anyone know if there is a filter in the system that could be clogged?? + where is it?

[KULTULZ]

The most common cause of burnt fluid is the absence of an oil cooler (overheating).

If there is a hydro-boost system on the car, there is a filter assembly.

If the fluid is burnt, the system must be flushed to properly rid it of old fluid.

An aftermarket inline filter is available (must use when replacing defective rack assembly) that goes into the low pressure side.

[Charlie]

Definatly change out the fluid a couple of times. That is always a good idea anyway. That noise can also happen when you are too low on fluid, or if you are getting too much air into the system. The air makes bubbels which causes the system to not work right. Carefully take the cap off while the engine is running and have someone slowly move the wheal and slowly push on the brake pedel. You should see fluid movement without too many bubbels. (there may be just a few)

[Bomoe1]

As far as the Lucas PS treatment goes...Its fantastic. I didn't belive it either, My Z-24 was having Hard spots usually in the winter, Then this Past summer happened a lot too, Guy at the parts store said if I didn't get the results I wanted he would give my his cost on the rack. I drained the system ,put in the Lucas and never had a problem again (til some idiot hit me about head on) I wouldn't have used "miricale" cures before ,But sometimes they may help.
Let us know how you make out.

[KULTULZ]

quote:Originally posted by Charlie:

That noise can also happen when you are too low on fluid, or if you are getting too much air into the system. The air makes bubbels which causes the system to not work right.

Just a thought. Anyime the steering system is serviced (pump, rack, hose or whatever), it is best to bring the steering tires off the ground and refill-bleed the system without the engine running. That is, fill the pump reservoir and manually work the wheel back and forth to fill the system. Once you are confident the system is somewhat filled, then start the engine and turn the steering wheel left to right (not against the stops) until the bubbles disappear.

There is also a special service tool used in conjunction with a MityVac to bleed the air out of the system.

[RODDMOD]

I use Lucus and it does seem to make a differance, LubeGuard is also very good it is sold at Napa stores, I have tried the Vac pump to remove to air from the system and it helped a little but not that much, it seems like over time it gets to its normal Ford sound. Its is amazing some of the dirty fluid I have seen and these racks have not failed, if people would change fluid they would last forever.

[KULTULZ]

The fluid should be flushed every two years. As you stated, it would save a lot of aggravation. :D

The main culprit is the absence of a P/S cooler in some applications. Not only does it burn the fluid but dries out seals in the rack and pump. If you think it won't make a difference, wrap your hand around the pressure hose after a brief drive.

Another big problem is the seal(s) in the rack. They ride in aluminum housings (bores-spool valve/output shafts) and once the seals dry up and harden, thay start to eat into the housing causing system failure due to aluminum shavings.

That is why it is advisable to buy a replacement rack that has been bored and stainless steel sleeves inserted into these bores to prevent future failure. Also the insertion of an inline filter in the return side to remove the shavings (you can never flush them all) and causing additional damage to a repaired system.

[Lscman]

Clearances and finish inside the pump determines the amount of noise, assuming fluid level is right. The pumps cost a whopping $40 ea at any auto parts store.

[Michael VII LSC/SE]

So far I've replaced about a 1/4 cup of fluid with the lucus oil treatment. No appreciable difference on the noise. Parts Store said the oil treatment would be similiar to the 8 oz. pwr steering stop leak by lucas. :rolleyes:

I appreciate the input. :cool: So do I loosen one of the hoses to drain and flush? :rolleyes:

[Charlie]

I am not really sure how to drain and flush. What I did was to go to a discount store and buy a cheap plastic turkey baseter. Than I sucked all the fluid out of the pump and refilled it. Than I started the engine turned the wheels back and forth a few times and applyed the brakes a few times hard. I repeated the whole thing 3 times. Than I drove the car and did the whole thing 3 times agin a week later. It looks purty clean now. This is not as good as a drain and flush but, it is simple and I do it once a year. You can use your wife's turkey baster but, you better have a good excuse for eating thanksgiving somewhere else. :D If the pump is only 40 dollars you may want to get a new one. I wonder if for that price it includes the plastic reservoir on the back. Our cars have a special reservior that allows for a return line from the hydroboost brake assembly that most Fords do not have.That may cause the price to be higher if that part is included. Hope you all know what I mean.

[Lscman]

The return line is held to the bottom of the pump with a hose clamp. That hose is just bulk hydraulic hose and cheap. To purge fluid, remove the pump end and start up the car for about 2 seconds while turning the steering wheel right and left quickly. Shut down and refill reservoir with fresh, cheap fluid and repeat once or twice. The outlet hose pressure will spray fluid for a 50' radius so stay away from the house and other valueable objects. If you want to restrain the hose spray, good luck. Reattach hose and top off a couple times with quality fresh fluid.