New owner with a few questions

[len91lscse]

I just picked up a red 1991 LSC SE, 99,000 miles and bone stock. It's a one owner car and in super condition. Any ideas on how many SE cars might have been made? I've wanted a LSC for many years.
Here are my questions:
1. What would cause the steering wheel to jerk to the right if you tap the brakes? The car also wants to pull slightly to the right while following the road. I don't think it's a brake thing, maybe a worn ball joint?
2. I get a slight whoop noise when pulling out from a dead stop. It's not excessive just annoying. Any ideas?
3. The transmission seems to shift into 3rd then OD and back to 3rd rather quickly while accelerating normally. It's almost like it shifted up to OD too quickly and then downshifts to compensate for it.
Is there any way to get a copy of the original window sticker for my car? Thanks for all the good info. Len


------------------
1991 LSC SE
S.W. VA

[92 SE]

I get a whooping sound also, sounds like from the passenger rear while making a left turn and the brake is not applied ?????

------------------

[Charlie]

Welcome! and congrats on getting a nice car. There is a plastic bushing on the end of your TV cable. Thats the cable that runs from the tranny to the throttel body. On the throttel body end there is a plastic bushing . If there is too much play in this bushing it can cause shifting problems.Because you are new I thought I should tell you about the ignition key problem. These cars have falty ignitions. They can short out and burn up the car even if the key is not turned on at the time. If yours has never been changed you may want to change it to be on the safe side. The part is under 20 bucks.

[Lscman]

About the jerk to the right thing: Jerking does not sound like a suspension part.
Does the car pull to the right when you apply the brakes slowly, gradually building pedal pressure? If not, then the left-front brake pressure is being delayed. This is most likely caused by 1)a bad left front brake hose that is collapsed internally or 2)a sticking left-front caliper piston or 3)a sticking ABS valve block on the front of the big master cylinder gizmo.
>>About the 3>4>3 shifting: sounds like the overdrive valving in the transmission valve body is sticking and the grommit is OK. I am assuming you are holding a steady throttle and not giving it more gas after the upshift. At part throttle, the valve body uses a few springs and orifices to determine when it's the right time to upshift or downshift, based upon TVI pressure (throttle valve cable/grommit gizmo). There should be considerable overlap so it does not "hunt", as you describe. Someone with AOD driveability experience could drive the car to determine whether the upshift to OD is premature or the downshift to 3 is premature. The upshift and downshift valving parts are different. The valve body will need to be removed and the OD valve flushed out, polished and inspected for burrs.

[This message has been edited by Lscman (edited July 18, 2001).]

[Charlie]

LSCMAN, I have a question I would like yours and anybody else opinion on. If len91lscse has 99000 miles on his car and the tranny fluid has never been changed I know that some of you do not reccomed a fluid change at this time. But, if his tranny has a sticky valve could he change his fluid and dump in a can of that "fix your tranny in a can" stuff? I know that this is not the right way to do it. I was thinking though, that if his tranny has sticky valves and he has to partly dissesamble it to fix them some of his other parts are probley sticky as well.In that case he is probley going to have more problems down the road. So what does he have to loose? I do not like this stuff myself and have never had to use it. I was just wondering about all your opinions on it.Hope you see what I am trying to ask! I may run into a simular problem myself some day and want to get as many ideas as I can. Thanks!

[len91lscse]

Thanks for all the replies so far!!!!
Lscman you asked,"Does the car pull to the right when you apply the brakes slowly, gradually building pedal pressure?" Yes, the car does pull. The car itself doesn't jerk. The steering wheel jerks when you "jab" the brake pedal lightly.
I called a Lincoln mechanic and he feels the lower strut bushing is bad. Does that sound possible?
I just found my full set of 1988 Ford shop manuals from my Turbo Coupe days. I assume the Mark VII stuff will still apply.
This transmission oil change thing worries me. I assume it's been serviced. I don't have record of it.
Len

[Charlie]

Len,please don't let me get you worryed about the tranny oil change thing. It was not my intention to have you do so. I was just wondering about additives and everbodys idea of them. Sorry to get you upset! Remember, I am just another car owner like you! I am no expert, I am just a simple country farmer. I should not have brought it up here. Please accept my apolgise for being such a dumb a**.

[len91lscse]

Charlie your comments didn't worry me. It's the transmission "hunting" that worries me. I hope it's only a TV cable adjustment. Len

------------------
1991 LSC SE
S.W. VA

[pro-five-oh]

Len, in responce to #2, you should check out the topic called "brake hanging up" in the Mark VII search feature. This is one of those things you have to deal with on these cars.

I think you'll find the Mark to be a pleasant upgrade from the TC, and it's fast too!



------------------
pro-five-oh
http://www.coolcats.net/photos/88sajx3.jpg

91 Mark VII BB with Cobra rims(sold)
88 Cougar XR-7 5.0 HO
15.0@93mph, 3740lbs
83 Continental 5.0 SLO
My Mark VII Page (http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/street/3545/mark.html)

[Lscman]

Great mechanic! The Mark VII does not have a lower strut bushing. The componentry he is suspecting resides on the conventional full frame Town Car chassis, not the modified McPherson strut Mark VII. The bottom of the strut is held on by two monsterous bolts torqued to 160 lb-ft & no bushing.

>>If jabbing the brake pedal quickly produces a sharp swerve to the right (steering wheel whips) and a gradual squeeze results in no swerve, the problem is the valve block or left caliper or left hose. Constant pulling to the right under heavy braking could be a bad rubber control arm bushing that allows the alignment to change radically with brake preload. Constant pull to the right is alignment problems, usually too little right side positive caster due to crash compression damage...or in rare cases, a very bad upper strut mount.

>>A "clean garage queen" babied luxury car that has seen under 10K miles per year could easily have sticking valve body. If it has over 75K miles and still has the original fluid, there is some risk to messing with it. It seems you have no choice in that case. If the car is headed for the tranny shop anyway, cleaning additives or fluid changes may be good for a last ditch effort. If the tranny has clean fluid and seems to have no slippage, any additives you pour in should be flushed out if the valve body quits sticking. This will minimize clutch and seal damage from the additive.

[TW/92LSC/SE]

Len, When I bought my LSC it had 4-3-4-3-4 shuttle problems as well as short shift problems with 100K miles. I flushed the black but not burnt fluid; installed a brass throttle valve bushing; and put in a TransGo SK AOD-H shift kit. I have no more problems with 4-3 hunting. I will warn you that it should be installed by a Trans Mech as it gets pretty involved and was one of the tougher kits I've put in.Drilling holes in the wrong place can create a mess of problems!