fuel pump??

[my88lsc]

i think my fuel pump is week...if my car is cold and i drive it and i slow down to take a turn my car kills...if i try to rev it up while cold it starts choking and spuddering at 3000rpms....if i drive it for awhile and slow down to take a turn or even stop at a stop sign it dies...it starts back up but takes a few sec\min.....any suggestions??Please help!!!

[pro-five-oh]

It is probably not the fuel pump. An EFI engine will not run if the fuel pump isn't working properly. You'll have to check the fuel pressure to determine if the pump is okay.

But I'd first start off with a new fuel filter and a tune up (plugs, wires, cap/rotor, pcv) as most stalling/idling problems are due to worn ignition parts. I'd also try some fuel injector cleaner.

If that doesn't work, you might have clogged/bad fuel injectors. Once the injectors and the tune up has been done and you still have a problem, then scope out that pump!

Good luck!

------------------
pro-five-oh
http://www.coolcats.net/photos/88sajx3.jpg

91 Mark VII BB with Cobra rims(sold)
88 Cougar XR-7 5.0 HO
15.0@93mph, 3740lbs
83 Continental 5.0 SLO
My Mark VII Page (http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/street/3545/mark.html)

[my88lsc]

the wires,cap & rotor,fuel filter,plugs are all new...it still acts up....i've even put a K&N air filter in it..i cleaned the air intake(helped with the idle but not the dying)...i'm going to check the pcv but have no idea what i'm looking for or where i'm looking at...would the oxygen sensor create a problem??? if so where is it and what does it look like and cost?? i run injector cleaner in it like every other time i fill it up, if not everytime..i'm totally stumped!!

[Charlie]

Does it only act up when cold? Or does it act up after it's warmed up as well?

[pro-five-oh]

Any check engine lights?

This sounds more like a sensor/computer problem. I would clean out the Idle Air Bypass valve (IAB valve) and see if the stalling still happens.

Do a keyword search on this board for "IAB valve" and you will find the info you need.

[my88lsc]

i don't get any check engine lights at all...i mentioned that i cleaned the AIB valve and it fixed the up and down surge when i started it cold...my new problem happens when it's cold and when i've drove it awhile... i can't understand it.. i had it in the shop because of it....it didn't want to run right(it would run but i could tell it was gradually dying but it started up if i let it sit)...the garage charged me like $200 dollars to fix what they thought was the problem(the plug wires and cap&rotor) but it still does it..i just replaced the pcv valve and it didn't effect it...no one seems to know what is going on....

[Charlie]

sometimes you can have a code in the computer and it will not turn the light on. It happend on my brothers pickup. You need to go someplace that has a code reader. They should keep the car over nite and hook up there equipment in the morning when the car is cold. It sounds a little like the last place you took it too was just gesssing. I would try a different shop if I were you. It has to be in one of the sensors somewhere. It may just take a little paitence to find.

[90LSC]

First, if a shop charged you $200 for just cap, rotor and wires you were screwed. Big time. Never go back to that shop.

There are so many things that could cause your symptoms. Have someone that won't stab you in the back check the Throttle Position Sensor, the fuel pressure regulator and the ignition module.

[Charlie]

90 LSC .Well he did say in his first post that he also had his filter and plugs changed. If you add that in and figure 50 hour labor it is not to bad. Let me say that I think most of these mechancs are overcharging but, that is how it is. I feel he got screw because they charged him for a hole bunch of stuff tht did not fix it. When they do that to me I get mad. By the sound of his problem he probley did not need the cap,rotor, and wires anyway. The factory ford wires hardley ever go bad. The fule filter was a farily good guess on there part but, not that good. I also feel he got screwd. I did not want to say it though. thank you 90 LSC for being honest.

[90LSC]

True...add in plugs, filters and the extra hour of labor they wasted scratching their asses and it wil add up to 2 bills fast.

The 1st thing a shop should do is diagnose the problem. It is true that you need good plugs, wires, cap and rotor but the problem still wasn't solved. I say again, never visit that shop again.

The answer to this problem is find a shop with REAL diagnostic equipment and let them find the problem.

my88lsc, when you do go to another shop, don't tell them about the new parts. See if they try to tell you that you need a tune up. When they do, tell them to kiss it and go somewhere else.

I'm betting on finding a bad Throttle Position Sensor.

Let us know what happens.

[pro-five-oh]

The TPS sounds like a winner to me too. You know, buying a little code scanner from a parts store might be in order. They cost $25 and come with a booklet with all the codes and instructions.

If you are good with a voltmeter, you can just stick it in the test port and pull the codes off yourself. The codes are on-line too. This is free diagnosis...beats the $75 most shops charge to pull codes.

[my88lsc]

i would buy one but the parts store told me that if the check engine light doesn't come on then the code reader wouldn't help me. i ask a guy i know about the TPS and she said that it's probably not that. he said it sounds like a fuel or air problem and the TPS wouldn't make my car do what it is doing. i'd take it to a shop but they charge for stuff like that and i'm sick of getting ripped off. anyone know how much a TPS costs?? i just want it to work right.....

[pro-five-oh]

Maybe someone will correct me, but the computer can catch a code without tripping the light. When I converted my car to mass-air I didn't add an extra wire to the fuel pump relay...causing a error code.

That error code has never tripped the light. No one knows what the computer is thinking...buy a scanner cuz you'll need it later.

Don't just buy parts randomly. That's the way to really waste money. Just my $0.02.

[my88lsc]

i got a code scanner and i got a #34 most of the time and i believe i got a code #23 one time.... the code #34 is the EGR Valve and the #23 is the TP(throttle position)....NOW WHAT!!! anything you guys know would help...thanx

[90LSC]

Your codes show that there is a problem with the EGR valve and the Throttle Position Sensor. Sometimes you can get away with taking the EGR valve off, clean it with carb cleaner and re-install. I would try that before buying a new one. Or save some time and hassle and pop for a new one now. Your call.

The TPS cannot be cleaned or repaired. I would fess up the $$ and replace it. You will need to buy or borrow an electronic voltmeter to set the TPS when you replace it.

Both the EGR valve and TPS r&r are easy jobs. If you are so non-mechanical that you don't want to do it your self, find a friend or friend of a friend who will do it for you.

These are the type jobs shops LOVE. I can change a TPS and set the voltage in just a few minutes. A shop will charge you a minum of 1 hour labor plus parts. And they always charge lots more for the parts than if you had bought them yourself.

Good Luck

[my88lsc]

i cleaned the egr and it didn't seem to do anything....if i didn't disconnect the battery will that matter? i noticed that the plunger dealie in the egr wasn't very easy top push down..is that normal? i don't know how to tell if it's bad or just still too dirty to work right...i need a battery powered digital voltmeter to check the tps right??how bout testing the egr with one? please help the poor lost wanna-be mechanic...thanx

[Charlie]

The reason for unhooking the battery is because your computer learns how your engine is running. This is built in to make up for normal engine wear. So when you make a change you have to unhook the batery so that you computer can learn the changes you made. Also the code in the computer that you pulled out with the scanner will still be there. Although I think some of the high end scanners will clean the codes out for you. It is always a safe bet to unhook the battery during any repairs so you do not short something.

[keystone045]

Heh, learned that one the hard way changing a starter once. I welded part of my wedding ring to the block!!

(I also take off the ring now)

-keystone

[Charlie]

Keystone 45. In a word OUCH! http://www.lincolnsonline.com/ubb/eek.gif I bet your wife was mad.

[my88lsc]

i did the battery unhooking and no luck...i looked at the EGR and i noticed that the orange thing inside is wrinkle over on itself...is that normal? it's only on one side. also i unhooked the vacuum line and it wasn't sucking very hard at all..is that right? all and all it looks like i'll have to spend $80 on a new EGR huh?? the worse part is that i bet it won't even fix the problem.....thanx guys