96 TC REAR AIR SPRINGS

[BAMF327]

HELLO BLUE COLLAR
DO YOU KNOW THE VOLTAGE USED TO OPEN THE AIR SPRING SOLENOIDS? (BLACK CONNECTOR ON MODULE,PIN NUMBERS 13 AND 25).
I SWAPPED OUT THE HEIGHT SENSER AND IT DID NOT FIX MY PROBLEM. I THINK MY MODULE IS BAD BECAUSE THE COMPRESSOR STILL WONT TURN ON UNLESS I GROUND THE RELAY MYSELF. THE REASON I WANT TO KNOW THE VOLTAGE IS SO I CAN MANUALLY OPEN THE SOLENOIDS AND MANUALLY RUN THE COMPRESSOR TO RAISE THE REAR BACK UP SO I CAN CHECK THE AIR SPRINGS AND STILL USE THE CAR IF THE SPRINGS ARE GOOD.


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[BLUECOLLAR]

As little as 9 volts will open up the solenoids. Why did you replace the height sensor? Its pretty rare them going bad.

I would turn the suspension switch off and get up under the car. Disconnect the lower part of the sensor and compress it somehow. Tie it if you have to. Then turn on the suspension switch and see if the compressor comes on. This fools the module into thinking the rearend is on the ground and will try to turn on the compressor.
REMEMBER: It will only TRY to turn on the compressor for about 90 seconds before it gives up and turns on the light. Check the DARK BLUE with yellow tracer wire coming out of the module for a ground signal. You can do this by using a test light.
(Put the alligator clip on a 12 volt power source, then probe the connector(dark blue wire) to see if it shows a ground) You can even do this test usiong the wire that you were grounding at the relay.

Try this at least 2 times to make sure. If you don't get a ground signal from that wire after you put the ignition to the on position, YOU HAVE A BAD MODULE. There may other issues, but you have to find out about the brain first.

[BAMF327]

OK I CLIPPED THE TEST LIGHT TO B+ AND PROBED THE DARK BLUE WIRE WITH THE YELLOW TRACER. TURNED ON THE KEY. WITHIN 2-3 SECONDS THE TESTLIGHT FLASHED FOR ABOUT A TENTH OF A SECOND THEN WENT OUT AND STAYED OUT.(NOTE THE COMPRESSOR ALSO KICKED ON FOR THAT TENTH OF A SECOND). A FEW SECONDS LATER THE "CHECK AIR SUSPENSION" LIGHT COME ON AND STAYED ON. IS THIS MAKING ANY SENSE YET.(IF I GROUND THE DARK BLUE WIRE WITH THE YELLOW TRACER THE COMPRESSOR TURNS ON).


[This message has been edited by BAMF327 (edited August 10, 2001).]

[BLUECOLLAR]

First off, the check suspension light coming on is to alert the driver that the system didn't raise up like the module wanted. Thats par for the course. Once you find the compressor problem, you'll fix the chsck suspension light.

Try something: Disconnect the air ride compressor and do the very same test.
If module only sends the ground signal for that second again then quits,YOU NEED A MODULE!
If it sends the ground signal like normal and stays that way for up to 90 seconds, REPLACE THE COMPRESSOR.

[BAMF327]

I DISCONNECTED THE COMPRESSOR(4 PLUG CONNECTOR). HOOKED UP TESTLIGHT TO B+ AND PROBED DB/Y WIRE. TURNED THE KEY ON AND IT DID THE SAMETHING (FLASHED FOR A TENTH OF A SECOND).SO I UNPLUGGED THE COMPRESSOR RELAY AND DID IT AGAIN AND THE SAMETHING HAPPENED. SO I CALLED IN A FAVOR FROM A BUDDY WHO KNOWS THE PARTS GUY AT FORD. I GOT THE MODULE FOR 117.00 ON A SUNDAY! BUT MY LUCK RAN OUT THERE, THE NEW ONE DOES THE SAME THING. DID MY NEW MODULE BURN OUT ON THE FIRST TURN OF THE KEY OR WHAT, OR DID I BUY A BAD NEW MODULE? I SAW THE PARTS GUY OPEN THE SEALED MODULE BOX. BY THE WAY THE NEW HEIGHT SENSOR IS STILL HOOKED UP.
THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP SO FAR AND ANYMORE YOU CAN GIVE.

[BLUECOLLAR]

This is really weird.
Did the car do the same thing when you had the original sensor on the car? I remember you saying that the compressor wouldn't come on at all, now its coming on for a second. ?????

[BAMF327]

I NEVER NOTICED IF THE COMPRESSOR TURNED ON FOR THAT SPLIT SECOND BEFORE. I ONLY TOOK NOTICE WHEN THE TESTLIGHT FLASHED ON THAT I COULD HEAR THE COMPRESSOR. WHEN IN THE CAR UNDER NORMAL START UP(HOOD DOWN DOORS CLOSED)I NEVER HEARD THE COMPRESSOR TURN ON FOR THAT SPLIT SECOND. SHOULD I PUT THE OLD HEIGHT SENSER BACK ON AND TRY IT AGAIN???? I WOULD HATE TO TAKE IT TO FORD & GIVE UP AT THIS POINT.
I AM LOOKING AT AN ELECTRICAL SCHEMATIC FROM FORD,IT SHOWS THE 4 WIRES FOR THE HEIGHT SENSER AS HEIGHT,OUTPUTS,POWER INPUT,& GROUND.WITH A VOLTMETER I SHOW 2 WIRES FROM THE CHASSIS HARNESS GOING TO THE SENSER TO HAVE 5 VOLTS EACH (BLUE & GREEN WIRE ON SENSER).

[This message has been edited by BAMF327 (edited August 12, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by BAMF327 (edited August 12, 2001).]

[BLUECOLLAR]

Bamf327, Just for the heck of it, put the original sensor back on. I had a car YEARS AGO, that was doing what your describing, and I can't remember for the life of me what it was. You know the NEW sensor you have is not fixing it, so go ahead and put the old one back on. I kinda remember a sensor doing something weird like this, but that was alot of cars ago.

[BAMF327]

WELL I TRIED THAT, NO LUCK THERE. I GOT THE BACK END BACK UP IN THE AIR BY JUMPING POS.& NEG. TO THE WIRES FOR THE SOLENOIDS & GROUNDING THE RELAY. THE CAR CAME RIGHT UP AND IS STAYING UP. THE SWITCH IN THE TRUNK IS TURN OFF. DO YOU KNOW OF ANYTHING ELSE I COULD TRY? WHY IS THE VEHILE SPEED SENSER IN THE SCHEMATIC FOR THE AIR SUSPENSION? THERE IS ALSO WIRES FOR STEERING WHEEL ROTATION RATE INPUT. COULD ONE OF THESE BE MY PROBLEM?

[BLUECOLLAR]

Keep in mind the same module that handles the air suspension, also handles the EVO(electronic variable orifice) for the steering. The steering rate sensors and all that are for the steering.

Let me look over the schematics and think about this, I'll get back to you.

[Richard J. Parker]

Ok, since the most logical problems seem to be checked, I'll offer some other Control Logic Troubleshooting ideas.

You probably have done this, but I'd check the supply voltage and ground feeding the module and the connectors involved. Be sure the ground is solid.

Another possibility is an open shunting diode across the relay itself (which I only assume it has). DC relays will create a large spike in the coil circuit unless the coil is bridged with a reverse biased diode (in other words the negative band of the diode is connected to the coil's plus 12vdc while the other end of the diode is connected to the coil's minus). An unsuppressed spike will often cause a reset of any microprocessor directly connected to it. I am not sure how Ford suppresses the coil's spike, but a diode may be built into the relay (therefore swap the relay) or it may be built into the socket.

While not likely, I have seen bad parts come out of dealer stock. If all else fails, the dealer has seen it all and can probably identify the problem.

[BLUECOLLAR]

BAMF327,Have you checked the charging system? How is the battery?

It only takes a second for the module to pickup a "lower than 9 volt" charge indication. If it does, it won't go any further.

If your not sure, put a battery charger on your car for awhile then try it, or just hookup a set of jumper cables and try it.

[BAMF327]

I HAD TO PUT MY BATTERY CHARGER ON IT ALREADY. WHEN I SWITCHED OUT THE MODULE (DAY TIME) I LEFT THE GLOVE BOX DOOR OFF. THE LIGHT WAS ON FOR AT 24 HRS+ AND IT KILLED MY BATTERY. WITH THE CAR RUNNING NOW I SHOW 13.80 VOLTS NOT RUNNING IS 12.60 VOLTS. ALL POSITIVE WIRES AT THE MODULE SHOW 12 PLUS VOLTS.
MAYBE THIS WILL SHED SOME LIGHT ON THE SUBJECT BUT I DOUBT IT HAS ANYTHING TO DO WITH IT.I TOLD YOU MY CHECK AIR SUS. LIGHT CAME ON 20 MILE INTO MY TRIP DOWN TO FLORIDA.WELL ON THE TRIP HOME I NOTICED A VERY SLIGHT BUCK WHEN CLIMBING ANY INCLINE. AFTER 100 MILES UP RT.75 I WENT OVER THE SKYWAY BRIDGE(MAJOR INCLINE) THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON & SOMETIMES FLASHED. THE TEMP GAUGE IN THE DASH WAS NORMAL. NO BIG DEAL I KEPT GOING NORTH. AFTER I GET HOME AND RESTED I CHECK OUT THE CAR. I FOUND THE INTAKE MANIFOLD CRACKED RIGHT BEHIND THE ALTERNATOR.(THE TEMP GAUGE ALWAYS READ NORMAL). ON TOP OF THAT ANTIFREEZE WENT INTO THE NUMBER 1 SPARK PLUG HOLE AND SHORTED OUT MY COIL WIRE THUS BLOWING OUT THE COIL(WHERE ELSE DID THE ANTIFREEZE GO & SHORT OUT SOMETHING) I REPLACED THE INTAKE MANIFOLD-$235.,COIL-$60., WIRES-$75,. LET ME KNOW IF THAT MADE ANYTHING CLICK.
ANYWAY THE SWITCH IS STILL OFF IN THE TRUNK. ITS BEEN 28HOURS SINCE I MANUALLY PUMPED THE BACK END UP. IT WENT DOWN 3/4 OF AN INCH. IS THAT ACCEPTABLE?
RICHARD PARKER I SWITCHED OUT THE RELAY WITH THE 2 OTHER ONES NEXT TO IT WITH NO SUCCESS.I HAVE TWO B+ AT THE MODULE AND ONE POSITIVE WITH THE KEY ON. THE GROUND IS GOOD ALSO. I EVEN CHECK FOR CONTINUITY THROUGH THE SWITCH IN THE TRUNK. THE SWITCH IS GOOD.
CAN A SNAP ON SCANNER BE HOOKED UP TO THE DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR IN THE TRUNK OR IS THAT CONNECTOR FOR THE FORD DEALER ONLY?

[BLUECOLLAR]

You've been making my memory work overtime here lately....."its smokin".

I know this sounds like a wild shot, but I remember having a problem like this before, and it was under the same circumstances as yours. The guy was on a trip, had the trunk loaded like a pack mule and all.

The guy had moved his jack around to make room for all the other "stuff" and the jack wound up sitting on the wires for the sensor that comes through the trunk. Just for the heck of it, move anything up around where the spare tire is. You may have not even moved the jack, but something else may have smashed the wires.

[This message has been edited by BLUECOLLAR (edited August 15, 2001).]