ABS Warning Light

[wr3236]

I have a 1995 Cont. with 125K miles. I do not work on the car myself. I just had the air suspension replaced by the Ford garage with rebuilt parts from a supplier I found in Fla. Now the ABS warning light comes on when I first start the car along with the "check traction control" message on the dash. I have no ABS or traction control at this time. If I turn off the car and start it again the light goes off, no warnings and the ABS and traction control work fine. The Ford garage spent 10.3 hours on the wire/wheel senor/other analysis and thought they had it fixed when they cleaned up the ground wire connections. The brakes needed work, new rotors in the front, pads and turning in the back and a bad caliper fixed. When I picked up the car the ABS light came on. . . the Ford garage does not know where to go from here. Do I replace the module? Is there an after market supplier where I can get a discounted part?

[LSC SS]

Sounds like you need to find a new garage, 10.3 hours should be more than enough time to diagnose and replace every part in the whole system!!
Did they check the trouble codes??? That would be the first thing to do !!

[wr3236]

I agree, but I don't have a lot of options where I live. They did check the codes but I understand they did not point to a specific problem. They called the Lincoln repair hotline with initial diagnosis and codes and were told to do the manual wire/sensor/etc. check which took all the time. They know they are in trouble and only charged me a fraction of regular hourly rate. If I could be at all certain that it is the computer module I would have them replace it, but if that doesn't work I am out an additional $400 and can't return the part. I can't afford to throw $300-400 at guesses and can't find a garage or mechanic that can figure this out. Thanks for any help or direction, I am really frustrated.

[Steve L]

As a proud owner of the same model and year with the same problem. We may find out together . First need to check: When starting up the engine(especially after it has been sitting for about an hour). Check to see if you hear a whirling type noise ( some times cycling on and off) coming from the left fender close to the fire wall. Check this noise with the hood closed or you may not hear it above the engine noise with the hood open. Do not get confused with the suspension compressor noise on the right front side of the engine compartment. If the whirling noise is evident, it will be a problem with the ABS system trying to pump up to operating pressure. If the system is taking a long time to pump up I would then suspect an accumulator as the culprit component.I will try and test this theory out this week on mine. If any others on this site have a test procedure would you please post it.

[wr3236]

Thanks, I will check today and post any results.

[TW/92LSC/SE]

So you never had the problem before the suspension was repaired? Did they repair front and rear suspension?

Has you car ever had the ignition switch changed? The reason I'm asking is because when it's below 0*F and I use my autostart, sometimes my ABS light stays On. I then shut the vehicle Off and restart and alls well again. I'm suspecting either a worn ign switch (possibly the grease on the contacts is old causing a slight voltage loss until I physically turn the switch and rub the contacts for a better connection), or maybe an antilock power relay if your car has one (the points may be slightly corroded again causing a small voltage drop).

Also check the ground Lt.Grn/Yel at the left front fender apron.

[wr3236]

I did not notice the whirring sound on the left side the last two times I started the car.

Another developemnt, the ABS light does not stay on every time now. Of the last 8 times I started the car after sitting for 1 hour or more the light stayed on once!!??

I did have front and back suspension done and I had the ignition switch changed last summer to correct other false warnings about doors open and interior lights staying on.

The weather has been brutally cold and I park my car in a non-attached garage that is maybe 3 degrees warmer that outdoors. Not sure if it all could be weather related. Maybe I should move to Arizona for a few months and see how that works, let things warm up while I play golf??

Thanks for all the suggestions . . . this is a great site!

[Steve L]

My ABS warning light comes on and then goes off at random also. It will not leave a code that I can read through the DTC 16 pin data port. One thing this system does not have "thank ford", Is the accumulator.The DTC light will come on when the ABS motors have stayed on too long(I guess while building up pressure). Yours should only run about 3 seconds during start up or during ativation. This also works in combination with traction control. My traction control comes on on the message display (also at random). Does yours come on also? Of course to clear that display you just reset the display. I have a basic understanding of how the two work together. This is based on the operation of individual speed sensors at each wheel and imput and output speed sensors in the trans.If I start babbling, Just stop me.I am trying to learn and no one has come to my rescue to tell me to shut up.I'll keep trying and let you know.

[spedzinski]

Me too. My ABS light is out when I start the car then comes on and stays on after I back out of the driveway. Been doing that for months. No problems with braking except pulling to the right a little when I brake.

Where is the code reader plug located on an 89 Marks VII? Is is the same one as for other codes (under the hood)? There is a similar plug hanging loose in my trunk but I plugged the code reader in there and nothing came up.

[TW/92LSC/SE]

Spedzinski; The plug in the trunk is the one you use. I think Bluegrass said you plug the code reader into it and count the flashes from the ABS light on the dash, not the reader.

wr3236; I think what I might do if you don't know how to check the sensors out yourself with an ohm meter, would be to at least get a wiring diagram for ABS and disconnect every connector and terminal ground point one at a time. Then spray each connector/terminal with a quality electrical spray with lubricant(such as NUTROL) and reconnect. As you have each connector apart, use a magnifying glass to look at each terminal for signs of corrosion or the "mean greenies". Ford may have pulled some connectors apart to test for resistance or voltage, but whether they actually spray cleaned them or did them all is the question. It only takes one corroded wire or terminal to cause all kinds of intermitant grief especially in humid or winter weather.

[wr3236]

The weather has not been good enough for me to do the electrical check. I have noticed another "clue". When I turn on the key the ABS light comes on (as expected) but if I don't start the car immediately the light should go off. Sometimes it does not go off and the computer readout says to check traction controle. If I turn off the key and turn it back on, as long as the light goes off I am good to go. Does this seem like it is a problem with the ignition switch connections?? Any help will be appreciated. . .Thanks.

[jmerritt]

I think you need a wiring schematic and better still a shop manual or something that has the ABS diagnostic charts to trouble shoot the ABS problem. Alldata DIY might be the answer instead of the Helms shop manual. Helms will cost $100+ whereas the Alldata DIY is $25. Maybe someone knows of a shop CD that you can get reasonable, possibly on e-Bay. Just too many components in the ABS and traction control circuitry to try and fix the problem without a "roadmap".

John smile.gif

[TW/92LSC/SE]

You might try an ign sw. Fuse #5 which supplies power to the traction control switch gets it's power from the Brn/Pnk wire of the ign switch.

You say it's cold there so I wouldn't be trying to unplug any connector without being in a warm garage. The connectors are too hard and brittle in the cold. They'll break the lock tabs before they come apart. I use a heat gun to warm the connectors, even in the summer, so they won't break. I still think you have a poor connection somewhere that'll require attention, probably moisture related, but as you say the weather limits your troubleshooting proceedures.

[houndog97]

How about the relays? Have you checked those?