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Zelgar
October 2nd, 2003, 08:46 AM
I have no air suspension whatsoever on my '96 Continental. If I bypass the computer to the air pump, it turns on but the air bags still don't air up and it drains the battery. With the key in the on position, the pump doesn't get any power. While I'm waiting to get this fixed, is there any way to manually air up the bags to see if they are leaking?<UL TYPE=SQUARE><LI>96 Continental Suspension[/list]

DJ
October 2nd, 2003, 09:09 AM
I'm not real familiar with the 96 Continental air suspension system, but if it is similar to the Mark VII system in operation, you also need to energize the air solenoid at each bag to allow the air from the compressor to flow into the bags.

How are you bypassing the computer? If you are supplying 12 volts directly to the compressor you may just have a bad air compressor control relay. Because you indicate that this is draining the battery you may want to check any fuses (and/or fusable links, if any) in the circuit. The air compressor motor may be defective and drawing excessive current. Or the high current may just be a result of the compressor being dead headed with nowhere to send the air.

[ October 02, 2003: Message edited by: DJ ]

mystery
October 2nd, 2003, 11:43 AM
By 'no suspension' whatsoever, do you mean the compressor never comes on, and the air struts are flat?

Does the 'Ride Control' light immediately turn on shortly after turning on the ignition?

If so, your compressor is probably not working properly.

Adding air manually will NOT work, as the solenoids to the air bags remain closed.

One thing I saw at a garage one time was where connecting a battery to the wires of the solenoids would open them up (my strut was too full so it had to be vented this way). I guess if you do this, then pump the air through, it should inflate.

Zelgar
October 2nd, 2003, 12:18 PM
I have tried several things as I read on the bulletin board. I took off the negative battery cable and connected the test light to it and then to the negative post and it lit up, so I removed each fuse and it never went off. As far as the fusable link or online fuse, I can't seem to find one. Does anyone out there know where to look? Also, is it possible that the computer might be shutting off power to the air pump system if the air bags are leaking?

DJ
October 2nd, 2003, 01:11 PM
quote: is it possible that the computer might be shutting off power to the air pump system if the air bags are leaking?

It's possible, but not likely. On a Mark VII the compressor will run itself to death, literally, when there is a leak in the system. Maybe the later computers are smarter, I don't know. I did a little seaching and found on the Strutmasters (http://www.techman.strutmasters.com/) site a referance to an "A" fuse that is located on top of the inner fender that feeds power to the compressor.

Zelgar
October 2nd, 2003, 07:44 PM
Yes, I check this fuse and it is ok. So, if there isn't a fusable like, how can I tell what is draining the battery? I'm currently unemployed, so I can't afford to take this to the dealer and my mechanic couldn't diagnose the problem because he didn't have Ford's diagnostic key.

DJ
October 3rd, 2003, 08:39 AM
Is the battery drain occurring only when you are running the air compressor or is the drain a constant thing. You mentioned that, using a test light you were getting a current draw all the time even after pulling all of the fuses. It sounds like you may have a shorted diode in the alternator, been there. Disconnect the alternator and see if the draw goes away. One other thing, when checking "key off" battery current draw it is important to remove the underhood light bulb to get accurate readings.

Bluegrass
October 3rd, 2003, 02:03 PM
Zelgar, The air pump draws a lot of current-nearly 30 amps. There is a relay that runs it under module control. If it runs to long,it's internal temp sensitive circuit breaker will open and not reset until the motor cools down about a half hour.
You could have several problems at the same time. The motor circuit and control, the pump may be at the end of it's usefull life.
You need to see if there is a drain problem seperate from the suspension problem.
The alternator and/or the regulator will drain the battery if defective.
Testing for drain the way you tried will not tell you much with out understanding some things.
A (small) 12 volt lamp needs to be used so you can see results. The computer normally takes current at about 40 milliamps, at all times.
A major drain is checked by pulling the plug out of the alternator and disconnecting the large charge lead, to see if it shows. Then go from there. The feeds normally come off the starting relay so that point can be used to start seperating out the problem by watching the lamp results.

FASTEDDIE1987
October 4th, 2003, 08:39 AM
Zelgar
Do your self a favor and take it to the Dealer.I tryed takeing it to a Garage that had my car for 3 weeks So i had it picked up taken to Dealer $89.00 ck out fee well worth the money 1 day told me what was wrong :cool:

ekooke
October 4th, 2003, 09:39 AM
quote:Originally posted by Zelgar:
I have no air suspension whatsoever on my '96 Continental. If I bypass the computer to the air pump, it turns on but the air bags still don't air up and it drains the battery. With the key in the on position, the pump doesn't get any power. While I'm waiting to get this fixed, is there any way to manually air up the bags to see if they are leaking?<UL TYPE=SQUARE><LI>96 Continental Suspension[/list]

The '95-'96 Continental (ALL of them) had a wiring problem with the solenoid harness, in that they were all too short. This was "fixed" at the factory by splicing the harness leads at the fender wells. The so-called good ones had the splices tucked up inside the fender wells, while the ones that failed within 2-3 years had the splices exposed in the fender wells; most likely, they will all fail eventually, even the "good" ones. When the splices fail, the wheel solenoids won't open and the compressor will shut off by its internal circuit breaker, the fuse will blow, or the compressor relay will burn out. Replace the relay first (compressor should then run), then have someone turn the ignition key to Run (not Start) with all the car doors closed, while you listen at the rear wheel wells for a solenoid click after the compressor starts. Turn off key, then back on and repeat for the other side. Repeat the above procedure for the fronts. If a click is not heard at EACH wheel well, the factory "fixed" harness could be your problem.

Zelgar
October 16th, 2003, 01:06 PM
The compressor never comes on as it isn't getting any voltage. Is there a fusable link somewhere that I can't find? Or is it just the fuse and relay under the hood? I went to the dealer, but their price for a diagnostic had one price for one thing and another for others. To justify their high prices they compared them with a known crooked dealer in town.

quote:Originally posted by ekooke:


The '95-'96 Continental (ALL of them) had a wiring problem with the solenoid harness, in that they were all too short. This was "fixed" at the factory by splicing the harness leads at the fender wells. The so-called good ones had the splices tucked up inside the fender wells, while the ones that failed within 2-3 years had the splices exposed in the fender wells; most likely, they will all fail eventually, even the "good" ones. When the splices fail, the wheel solenoids won't open and the compressor will shut off by its internal circuit breaker, the fuse will blow, or the compressor relay will burn out. Replace the relay first (compressor should then run), then have someone turn the ignition key to Run (not Start) with all the car doors closed, while you listen at the rear wheel wells for a solenoid click after the compressor starts. Turn off key, then back on and repeat for the other side. Repeat the above procedure for the fronts. If a click is not heard at EACH wheel well, the factory "fixed" harness could be your problem.

Zelgar
October 16th, 2003, 01:11 PM
As far as the charging problem, the Alternator was fried. It was supposed to be under warranty, but they said it was something different in it this time. I was told that something was drawing on it but they couldn't determine what it was. Not sure how to test it. Any suggestions????

Zelgar
October 22nd, 2003, 05:53 AM
Well, can anywone tell me where to check next? I was going to replace the solenoids, but I'm not sure if they are the problem seeing that the compressor doesn't even start up. The relay is ok and so is the fuse under the hood. What gives? I'm only working part time right now, so I can't afford a trip to the dealer.

ekooke
October 22nd, 2003, 07:49 AM
quote:Originally posted by Zelgar:
Well, can anywone tell me where to check next? I was going to replace the solenoids, but I'm not sure if they are the problem seeing that the compressor doesn't even start up. The relay is ok and so is the fuse under the hood. What gives? I'm only working part time right now, so I can't afford a trip to the dealer.

Do the wheel solenoids "click" when they're supposed to? If so, and the compressor is running when it should, the compressor is weak, or the vent valve is stuck open, or the dryer is water-saturated.

Check power to the compressor after turning key to run (not start). If you have power at the compressor plug-in point and it doesn't run, the compressor is either locked up or its internal circuit breaker is fried. Either way, you'd need a new (rebuilt) compressor. If you have no power at the plug-in when it should be there, the problem is upstream; fuse, relay, wiring, or at the air ride controller itself.

Steve Moran
October 24th, 2003, 05:58 PM
This is going to sound stupid but in the trunk is a switch to shut off the air ride suspension some times mechanics will shut them off and forget to turn them back on.
They shut them off when they put them on a hoist to remove the tires for any reason. could you have had any serice like this preformed lately?

Zelgar
October 26th, 2003, 08:39 AM
Where can I find the Air ride controller? The symptoms were as follows: the car would sometimes say check ride control, but it still seemed to work ok, then one day I had no air in the airbags and the compressor didn't even run. I checked the fuse and relay and they seemed fine. Any idea where I can get a manual with the wiring schematics?

ekooke
October 26th, 2003, 08:41 AM
quote:Originally posted by Zelgar:
Where can I find the Air ride controller? The symptoms were as follows: the car would sometimes say check ride control, but it still seemed to work ok, then one day I had no air in the airbags and the compressor didn't even run. I checked the fuse and relay and they seemed fine. Any idea where I can get a manual with the wiring schematics?

Like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34225&item=2439324674

Zelgar
October 26th, 2003, 02:11 PM
Let me explain myself a little better. Where on the car is the Air Ride Controller located?

ekooke
October 26th, 2003, 03:49 PM
Control module is behind the glove box. I wouldn't fool with it unless I had the factory Service Manual close at hand.

Zelgar
October 26th, 2003, 09:03 PM
Thank you, I have purchased a service manual online, so it should be here within a week.

Zelgar
November 11th, 2003, 09:49 AM
OK, can anyone tell me where I can get the best price for the suspension parts I need or a conversion kit.

mystery
November 11th, 2003, 01:38 PM
For air suspension replacement parts, the best price I find is from www.arnottindustries.com. (http://www.arnottindustries.com.)

I don't know if there are conversion kits for the '95 and up Continentals.

[ November 11, 2003: Message edited by: mystery ]

Lankin
November 16th, 2003, 10:55 AM
Sure there is a conversion.
Make sure you wont have to change your tire size!

Strumasters (http://www.continental.strutmasters.com/95upCont.html)