Easy radio install? [Archive] - Lincolns OnLine Message Forum

Kit Sullivan

February 1st, 2004, 03:52 PM

What I meant was...my car does not have the JBL super-duper sub-woofer set-up, so I assume it does not have the more-powerful JBL amp.(140 wats, I think)
I am under the impression that it has the 80-watt 'Ford' amp.
However, for some reason my rear speaker grills have a 'JBL Audio' badge on them. It has the wierd-looking 2-level 6"x9" speakers in the back, and the 5 1/2" speakers in the doors. No roof-mounted sub-woofer.
My build sheet says 'Luxury Sound System', whatever the hell that means.

And by the way...are the 'JBL Audio' badges on the rear speaker grills supposed to be facing rearward out the back window, or front-ways towards the front of the car?

If mine has the regular 'Ford' amp, will I still need 2 harness's?

JoshMcMadMac

February 1st, 2004, 04:32 PM

Sounds like you DO have the 140 watt amp. The Marks didnt come with a subwoofer. And this is the "Luxury Sound System" so you do have it. And the WalMart harness is all you need, it should have the two connectors included.

SQ_LSC

February 1st, 2004, 04:42 PM

First, the badges do face towards the back window. You do have a JBL system. The larger amp has a 30 amp fuse and the smaller amp has a 20. The fuse should be easily visible looking at the back of the amp. Just a word to the wise, do not hook the speaker outputs from the head unit through the factory amp. If you have rca's, use those. If you don't have the rca's you'll need an adapter to lower the voltage to the amp.

Kit Sullivan

February 1st, 2004, 05:27 PM

OK, lets clarify: My sheet from Ford does not list the JBL system on this car.

Tell me if I am right or wrong on this point:

The standard system did NOT include the 'JBL Audio' badges on the rear speakers, and only used the amp built into the headunit.

The next step-up came with the 80-watt amp, better speakers.(rear grills say 'JBL Audio', front grills say something like 'coaxial stereo')

The JBL set-up came with 140 watt 'JBL' amp, and even better speakers (same rear speaker badges, fronts grills say 'JBL Audio')

If this is right, I think I have the second set-up.
If not, then how can I definitevly tell which set-up I have?

SQ_LSC

February 1st, 2004, 06:30 PM

The luxury sound package comes with the 140 watt amp. You can verify that by the fuse that I pointed out up above. The door speaker grills would say coaxial premium sound. I think you have the bigger system also by your description. Both the stage 2 and 3 as you put it are JBL equiped.

Kit Sullivan

February 1st, 2004, 07:31 PM

Cool, I got the better system then! Now, what is the big difference between the 'JBL' and the lower level?

SQ_LSC

February 2nd, 2004, 04:02 AM

The big difference was in the speakers. The JBL's were of higher quality. That was how many years ago though,.....Hopefully yours are in decent shape yet if you plan on keeping them for awhile.

Kit Sullivan

February 2nd, 2004, 04:12 AM

Well, mine has the weird-looking rear speakers, with the smaller cones (tweeters?) mounted in a plastic housing above the big oval shaped cone(woofer?).
The speaker is marked on the back as a 'JBL' speaker.
I hate keep harping on this, but I am pretty sure it is not what is reffered to as the 'JBL System', but some lower or mid-level set-up.
So, if my system has the 'JBL' speakers, and the 'JBL' amp, what else was added to make it an offical 'JBL System'?

JoshMcMadMac

February 2nd, 2004, 07:11 AM

quote:Originally posted by Kit Sullivan:
So, if my system has the 'JBL' speakers, and the 'JBL' amp, what else was added to make it an offical 'JBL System'?

That's it. :D

Nick

February 2nd, 2004, 10:16 AM

There were three audio systems? I thought there was only the 80w and the 140w.

[ February 02, 2004: Message edited by: Nick ]

pro-five-oh

February 2nd, 2004, 12:22 PM

There are only 2 stock stereo packages from 87-92 Mark VIIs.

1) Premium sound: 80 watts, 6 speakers (coaxials upfront), rear speakers say "PREMIUM SOUND" on the back.

2) JBL: 140 watts, 10 speakers, says "JBL AUDIO" on the back.

Both units use the same connector for the head unit. The $8 Schose (sic) adapter that WalMart sells is the one you want no matter which system you have.

Whatever stereo you buy, make sure it comes with a flush mount kit. That way you can put the Ford trim back over the stereo so it sits like the factory (84-89 models only).

[ February 02, 2004: Message edited by: pro-five-oh ]

Kit Sullivan

February 2nd, 2004, 08:28 PM

Where do you have 10 speakers? Mine has 4: 2 6x9s in back, and 2 5 1/2s in front.(???)
Does Ford count the individual woofers and tweeters? If so, thats a pretty cheesy way to advertise '10 speakers'.

JoshMcMadMac

February 2nd, 2004, 08:31 PM

quote:Originally posted by Kit Sullivan:
Does Ford count the individual woofers and tweeters?

Yes they do.

quote:If so, thats a pretty cheesy way to advertise '10 speakers'.

Yes it is.

[ February 02, 2004: Message edited by: JoshMcMadMac ]

Capt. Zilog

February 3rd, 2004, 12:10 AM

quote:Originally posted by Kit Sullivan:
Where do you have 10 speakers? Mine has 4: 2 6x9s in back, and 2 5 1/2s in front.(???)
Does Ford count the individual woofers and tweeters? If so, thats a pretty cheesy way to advertise '10 speakers'.

Well, there really ARE 10 speakers there tongue.gif. They just package them like that to make them smaller/cheaper (which sort of hurts the tone, which is why real serious sound systems use discrete compenents).

Kit Sullivan

February 3rd, 2004, 04:46 AM

Still seems cheesy-max to me.
Is a Big Mac two hamburgers, or just one hamburger with two patties?
I say there are 4 speakers, even if they are higher quality.
All in all, I guess it really doesn't make any difference.

pro-five-oh

February 3rd, 2004, 08:14 AM

quote:Originally posted by Kit Sullivan:
Where do you have 10 speakers? Mine has 4: 2 6x9s in back, and 2 5 1/2s in front.(???)
Does Ford count the individual woofers and tweeters? If so, thats a pretty cheesy way to advertise '10 speakers'.

The rear speakers are 3-ways. And there are 2-ways in front: "co-axial premium sound" is two speakers that share the same axis. ;)

It hasn't been until very recent cars (mostly high end BMWs, Lexi, Volvos) that cars actually come with more than 6 individual speakers. I don't think co-axial speakers is cheating, if it is, everyone does it. smile.gif

Kit Sullivan

February 3rd, 2004, 05:41 PM

OK, I have checked my car, and now I am more confused than ever. Heres what my car (1988)is equipped with:

1)The low-level (80-watt) amp, identified by the 20-amp fuse.
2) Rear 6 x9" speakers are labeled 'JBL' on the back of the magnet. They are kinda wierd looking. They have an oddly shaped 'housing' with 2 smaller cones in it suspended above the main body of the speaker. I believe from everybody's description here that these are the 'JBL Audio' speakers. The speaker grills have 'JBL Audio' badges on them.
3) Front speakers are 5 1/2" round dual-cone speakers, in a specifically shaped housing that puts the speaker at an odd angle when mounted, so it will fit flush against the speaker grill on the door. The badges on the door grills say 'Coaxial Premium Sound'.
4)The head-unit is the toggle volume control with the 4 push-button 'hideaway' control knobs for balance, fade, bass and treble.

So...once again, I'm confused:
I am certain that my car was not built with the 'JBL Audio' option. This is based on the build-sheet documents I got from Ford. The fact that it has the 80-watt amplifier with the 20-amp fuse seems to verify that.
I have seen rear speakers in junked 88 Mk-VIIs that have much cheaper looking, 'single-plane' rear speakers that are labeled 'Ford' on the magnets (as opposed to the 'JBL' in mine.)
Now if the 'JBL' system came with a better amp (140 watt with a 30-amp fuse), then that means there are 3 different combos of systems availible:
A)the entry-level one would have the cheaper speakers, and probably the 80-watt amp.
B)The mid-level (Luxury Sound?) has the 'JBL' speakers, but still has the 80-watt amp.
C)The 'JBL System' would have the better 'JBL' speakers, and also come with the upgraded 140-watt amp.

Is this right? Everyone else says there are only 2 systems available.

Now, on to the second question: If I wanted to upgrade to the 'JBL' amp, is it just a matter of switching out the amps? Do they both plug into the same harnesses?

And lastly, what if I wanted to put an aftermarket amp in? Are there adaptor cables available for a 'Plug and Play' kinda set-up?
I have a real nice Rockford-Fosgate 4-channel 280 watt amp that I will install if it is a simple matter.

Thanks everyone for all your help.

Kit

JoshMcMadMac

February 3rd, 2004, 07:16 PM

There seems to be some confusion about identifying the amplifier. The premium amp had a 20A fuse, I know because I have one sitting in my basement. I can also promise that you are running the premium stereo from the fact that you do indeed have the 3way 6x9's and the 2way 6 1/2's. You DO have the premium setup. As for adding an aftermarket amp, I am unaware of any company that makes an adapter. The input to the stock amp is "speaker level" (regular speaker wire) if I remember correctly. The aftermarket amps have RCA inputs. You're probably going to need to run your own wires to get an aftermarket amp to work, but if you ask me it is worth it.

SQ_LSC

February 3rd, 2004, 07:38 PM

Kit, I checked my books and here's how you can tell the difference in amps. The 80 watt model has the 2 harness connectors on opposite sides. The 140watt luxury amp has the connectors on the same side. The luxury amp is also loaded with heat sink fins where the 80 watt premium amp isn't. The harness numbers are the same for each amp diagram so the amps are interchangeable. It sounds like you might have smaller coaxial drivers than Josh and that would coincide with what I have in my Luxury system. I only have 6" rounds where Josh has 6½'s.

I thought you were changing Head units though? If you want I will post a pic of both my luxury amp and one of the coaxial speakers next to eachother. I have them sitting here on my shelf.

Kit Sullivan

February 3rd, 2004, 08:52 PM

OK, mine has the amp with the cooling fins surrounding it, so I guess I'm back to having the 'big' amp. Cool!

Compared to an aftermarket amp (like my Rockford/Fosgate), how good is the stock 140-watt amp really?

Since I have the Rockford laying around, I figured it might be better to just install that, as long as I can just plug it in, assuming I can get an adaptor harness.

I don't want to cut or alter the factory harness, or run any additional wiring (why? beacuase I'm lazy!). Since the aftermarket headunit 'plugs' right in, I was hoping the same could be done with the amp. That way I wouldn't have to change any wiring.

Of course, if the stock 140-watt amp is really a good amp, as compared to a 'good' aftermarket one, then I'll just leave it.

Who came up with the 20-amp fuse vs. the 30-amp fuse info, anyway?

JoshMcMadMac

February 3rd, 2004, 09:24 PM

The stock amp is good for 20 year old technology. However, there is no comparison to new stuff. Any decent headunit alone can put out more power than that amp can. A Fosgate would be leaps and bounds above the stock amp. But the stock amp does a good job and should satisfy any typical driver. If you aren't in the mood to run wires, though, I think that Fosgate is going to continue laying around. I really dont think there are any adapters out there for what you want. And in regards to the size of the fuse, I think it was just misinformation somewhere out there at some point in time. The size of the fuse is probably the last resort, since it is always possible someone put the wrong size fuse in at some point in time. No big deal though, we've got you straightened out anyway. (At least for the time being! tongue.gif )

Kit Sullivan

February 4th, 2004, 03:16 AM

Good. Thanks to all!

SQ_LSC

February 4th, 2004, 04:03 AM

I posted the fuse thing and I appologize. That info was obtained verbally and I should have considered it hearsay until verified elsewhere. The last post I got the info directly from the manuals so there should be no misinterpretation.

Kit, what don't you like about the system now and what are you trying to accomplish? You started with a Head unit swap out and now your talking amp swap out.
With the proper adapters I'm sure you can do an amp with the existing wiring but I wouldn't recommend it.A bigger amp will probably just burn out your old factory speakers.

Jon90LSC

February 4th, 2004, 07:33 AM

Scoche (sp?) does make an amp bypass for the amp in the trunk. If you try to run too much deck power into the rear amp, it will shut off, and you will not get ANY sound at all. This is from experience. Anyhow, I think the JBL amp also has a square plug going to the amp for the speaker inputs, rather than a flat plug like the power harness. The Scoche harness plugs in at the amp wiring in the trunk, bypassing the amp and plugging into the wiring going into all of the speakers. If your Fosgate amp has a high level input, you could run them that way. You would still have to run a power wire back to the amp, but that might simplify the install quite a bit.

Kit Sullivan

February 4th, 2004, 08:07 AM

Here's what I'm trying to do:
I want to replace the headunit with a remote-control cd-player unit, and I want to use the factory harness to just plug it in.

I am also going to replace the speakers, since the originals are 16 years old and have been in the hot Florida sun thier whole lfe. They don't sound 'new' if you know what I mean.

I was under the impression that the factory amps were prone to 'blowing out', so since I have the other amp 'laying around'(not a Fosgate as told before, but a JBL), I figured if it was an easy swap, I would just replace the factory amp while I was at it.

However, it sounds like the amp swap is more hassle than I care to deal with, and since the factory one appears to be working correctly, I will just leave it.

So, a new head unit and new speakers should 'rejuvinate' the system somewhat, right?

JoshMcMadMac

February 4th, 2004, 08:19 AM

quote:Originally posted by Kit Sullivan:
So, a new head unit and new speakers should 'rejuvinate' the system somewhat, right?

Yes. :D

Jon90LSC

February 4th, 2004, 08:38 AM

What is the power of the deck you are planning to use? Usually the remote controlled decks are the upper end ones, which are high powered. I would suggest getting a little nicer deck ( I am partial to Alpine, but everyone has a favorite.), a set of efficient speakers, and bypass the factory amp completely. Just a thought.

Nick

February 4th, 2004, 11:33 AM

If you really want clear, crisp sound, I would suggest an Alpine or Pioneer head unit with Infinity Kappa speakers. You can get everything for a good price online at places like www.etronics.com. (http://www.etronics.com.) The Infinity Kappas are really, really great speakers. My friend has 2 6 1/2" Kappas with the pivoting tweeter in the front doors of his car and they are unbelieveable. He paid about $80 for them at etronics.

Kit Sullivan

February 4th, 2004, 12:26 PM

My amp is one I have had for a couple of years, and i took it out of my 69 Z-28 before I sold it. It is a JBL,but it is not right in front of me, so I cant really remember everything about it.
It is high power(280 watts, I think.Maybe more). Its 4-channel, has built in crossovers, and its pretty big. About 25% larger overall than the factory amp in the Mark.
I know that's not much of a desription, but its all I can remember right now. When it was in the Camaro, I only had it hooked up to JBL 6x9 3-ways, and Coustic (I think) 5 1/4 " rounds, and it sounded awesome! Plenty of volume, very clear and exceptional bass.
I listen mostly to classic rock, and 70's era music, so it doesn't really need to have that big bass-y 'thumper' ability.
I'll dig it out of the closet tonight and post the specs and let you guys tell me the best thing to do.

Thanks

Kit Sullivan

February 5th, 2004, 03:58 PM

OK, I got my amp out, and I'd like to tell you all what it is so you can tell me if it is really worth the effort to install it in place of the factory '140-watter':
(sorry, I don't know much about stereo equipment)
It is a JBL 'Decade' series, model # DA3504. It has screw attachments for front and rear speakers, and it says 'bridged' above the connections.
On the other end of the amp there are RCA jacks for a set of fronts and a set for the rears.
There is also a 'stereo/mono' input mode switch for each set of jacks.
There are 'input level' knobs for each set of RCAs that max out at 250Mv.
There is a 'Bass-EQ' switch for each set of jacks, labeled either 'OFF" or '+6 db'.
Lastly, there is a 'crossover' switch for each set of jacks labeled with your choice of 'LPF', 'FLAT', or 'HPF'.
This amp is pretty heavy, I'm guessing about 10 or more lbs. And it is considerably larger than the stock 'JBL' amp in the car.

There are no other markings or specs written on the amp, so I don't really know what it is rated at. I do know this however: I had it in my 69 Z-28, with only 4 speakers hooked up, and that car sounded awesome. Plenty of good, clear volume, and lots of bass.

I listen to stuff like AC/DC, KISS, Motley Crue, Beatles, Zep,etc...

If anybody knows why or why not I should hook this thing up, I would appreciate the advice.

Thanx!

Kit Sullivan

February 5th, 2004, 04:20 PM

OK, I just down loaded some stuff about the amp from the JBL website. It also has a 'floating ground factory head-unit interface' connection for two sets of speakers.
Of course I don't have a clue what that means.
The factory literature says '4 x 50 watts', so I guess it is a 200 watt amp.

SQ_LSC

February 6th, 2004, 04:24 AM

Kit, post the model number if they have lit available on the site for it. I'll work up a wiring schematic to use the factory cabling if it has speaker inputs.

Kit Sullivan

February 6th, 2004, 11:22 AM

Yeah, it's a JBL 'Decade' series.,
model #'DA 3504' 4, 3, or 2-channel amp, 200 watts.
The specs are on the JBL website. Thanks for your help.

Nick

February 6th, 2004, 11:50 AM

If you have a pre 1988 car with the 6 ohm, common ground, premium sound system, the amp is not interchangeable with the JBL unit correct?

:D Only on at LincolnsOnline can you find a discussion about the minute differences of the factory sound systems and the inconsistencies of grilles Ford used on our cars. I love this place! smile.gif

Kit Sullivan

February 8th, 2004, 06:09 AM

Hey SQ-LSC, Where's that wiring help, dude? Just kidding. You seem like the guy around here with all the 'audio' answers. I really appreciate any info you would give.
What you said before is what I really need: The easiest and best way to wire that amp I mentioned above. Everything else I can pretty well figure out on my own.

Thanks!

SQ_LSC

February 8th, 2004, 06:40 AM

Kit, I plan on working on that today. You have enough wires in your factory harnesses to do a complete after market install including Head Unit, amp, and speakers without running any new wiring. I'll have that ready later on today.

Kit Sullivan

February 8th, 2004, 07:23 AM

Tanks,Man! I'll keep a look-out.

SQ_LSC

February 8th, 2004, 01:17 PM

I'm going to list some Scoche part numbers for adapter reference.

1: For a HU replacement with an amp bypass harness using speaker level connections: #FDK2. You can also use this kit for HU
replacement and amp replacement by cutting the amp bypass harness in half. This comes with the 3 connectors you'll need.

2:For HU and amp replacement using RCA connections on existing wiring: #FDK1 and FDK3. Those 2 kits combined will give you
all the connectors you need for a HU/amp swap using Low level signals via RCA connections and factory wiring.

The kits come with connection instructions but I'll throw some info on the table that's going to make it go smoothly.

POWER CONNECTOR FOR HEAD UNIT: You'll be using 4-6 wires on this one. I'm listing the factory color and It's corosponding
purpose first, then the industry standard color for aftermarket.

Constant memory=light green with yellow tracer. This is connected to your yellow aftermarket constant hot.
Switched power=Yellow with black tracer. This is the on/off power which is connected to the red aftermarket ACC.
Ground=Black. this is black on both connectors and is not necessary if you ground HU directly.
Power antennae: orange with light blue tracer. connect to either the dedicated antennae output on your HU or can be connected to the system remote wire used to turn the amps on and off. Aftermarket usually uses the same coloring for both and that's blue with a white tracer.
Amp on/off: red. Connects to aftermarket blue with white tracer for amp switching.
optional connections:
Dimmer=light blue with red tracer. connects to orange with white tracer of aftermarket. Dimms display with panel light dimmer control.

SPEAKER CONNECTIONS AT HU OUT TO AMP INPUT: + listed first, then -(match to colors provided with aftermarket radio)

left front= light green
white with orange tracer
right front= white with green tracer
brown
left rear= light blue with black tracer
yellow
right rear= purple with white tracer
light blue

SPEAKER CONNECTIONS AT AMP OUTPUT TO SPEAKERS: + listed first, then -(match to colors provided in adapter kit)

Left front= black with green tracer
black with white tracer
right front= white with light green tracer
dark green with orange tracer
left rear= grey with light blue tracer
pink with light blue tracer
right rear= orange with red tracer
black with white tracer

In addition to the speaker wires on the output side of the amp you have the amp's power connections.

Constant power= Yellow. this wire comes from the factory fuse block
Switched power= Red. This is the red wire you connectd at the radio for system remote
Ground= connect your aftermarket amp directly to sheetmetal for ground

Note! Please verify that you do indeed have all these colors at there coresponding locations before buying anything!. I don't
know what harness changes were made throughout the factory's model years and I'm not sure how long it would take me to get the color codes needed if yours don't match. Feel free to ask if you need any clarification and I hope this helps. Brian.

Kit Sullivan

February 8th, 2004, 07:52 PM

Brian, your awesome! Thanks! I'll check everything out real good within the next day or so, and if I have any additional questions, I'll sure let you know. Thanks again!
Kit.

DohctorSmith

July 11th, 2007, 08:27 AM

JoshMcMadMac

July 11th, 2007, 08:29 AM

Was there a wiring change from 89 to 90? I bought the conversion kit(Scosche) from Wal-Mart that said on back that it fit 84 to 89. The next kit was 93 and up. So I bought the 84 to 89 kit and it doesnt work. The large connector seems right, but the smaller connector is not even close. By the way I have a 90 lsc.

There was not a change in wiring from 89-90. The kit you have probably works on the 84-87(?) stereos with common ground. After that they changed the wiring, which I believe ran from 88-92. There should not be a 93+ kit for the Mark VII, as it was only made until 92.

DohctorSmith

July 11th, 2007, 10:59 AM

Thanks for your help Josh the last two days. Went to Scosche and there is a different connector set for the 90-92 lsc, just for FYI its part #FDK4B.

JoshMcMadMac

July 11th, 2007, 11:21 AM

Thanks for your help Josh the last two days. Went to Scosche and there is a different connector set for the 90-92 lsc, just for FYI its part #FDK4B.

Huh, well according to them there is a difference in the 90-92. I personally haven't dug in there, so I'd believe them. From them it looks like the common ground system was last used in 86, so that would break down the connectors to 84-86, 87-89, and 90-92. Good thinking to go directly to their site!

DohctorSmith

July 11th, 2007, 11:31 AM

One more question. Do I have to connect the new radio(Pioneer) ground since the connection to the old one was grounded and I will be using the old one(connection).

JoshMcMadMac

July 11th, 2007, 02:05 PM

One more question. Do I have to connect the new radio(Pioneer) ground since the connection to the old one was grounded and I will be using the old one(connection).

It should just be a matter of matching the colors on the Scosche harness. The ground should just be the black wire, and you'd connect that just like the red, orange, yellow, blue, and other wires. Are you saying that the Pioneer has a separate ground from the standard black wire?

DohctorSmith

July 11th, 2007, 02:42 PM

Yes, as near as I can tell. I supposed it was for placement in something(older car) that didn't already have a readily accessible ground?

Bluegrass

July 12th, 2007, 12:30 AM

Wow 3 pages to get a point accross.:o

Kit, I just put in a new JVC HD radio against the Lincoln amp and original speakers and could not ask for any better results.
Depending on what head you plan to use, donot drive the amp with the hi level out from the head unit.
You need a hi/lo conversion box to drop the power down going the the Linc amp unless the new head has low level outputs.
Make up the adapter cable and wire the power supplies to the radio and leave the rest alone.
I know you have a factory service manuel and all the amp info is there in section 35-xx-xx.
The amps main differences besides power output are the big amp has all kinds of optional ability that the Marks did not use but the bigger cars did on an option basis.
All the wiring you need is on page 35-01-13 in a 90 man. but may be on a different page in your book.
By the way if interested, the JCV HD head is all digital and has many levels of SRS drive settings as well as user definable equalizing or none = off.
It has provisions to integrate sat radio and a drive port for external units, plus a cd player.
The radio is FM-HD and AM-HD where there are stations to be heard.
The FM-HD also will play HD1,2,3 channels from the same station if being broadcast.
In my area, I hear a half doz AM-HD stations and an equal amount on FM-HD.
Presently, AM-HD is shut off at about 8 or 9 pm by the stations and reverts back to regular AM. The reasons are another subject.
Crutchfield is a good place to find all adapters and info.
If you should want a powered subwoofer, JVC offers the only one I have found like it. It is sized to surface mount on your rear deck ahead of the center stop light. Has a reaponse from about 20 hz to about 300 hz. The JVC head has a seperate low level sub output drive with 3 selectable top end response to fit your taste.
I found I did not need it with the sub response of the Linc JBL speakers being able to re-produce a stand-up big bass note to more than enough volume and no apparent distortion or rattle..

Stop trying to make it harder than it is.:):o

Billy G

July 18th, 2007, 11:40 PM

Billy G. Owens here,
Where is the power amp on my 91 VII Premium Sound System?

Thanks,
Billy

JoshMcMadMac

July 19th, 2007, 03:43 PM

Billy G. Owens here,
Where is the power amp on my 91 VII Premium Sound System?

Thanks,
Billy

In the trunk, bolted to the deck-lid. It's the one with the fuse and a lot of wires going into it.

Billy G

July 20th, 2007, 01:48 AM

I can't find the fuse for Premium Power Amp. Is it in the amp itself or
in the line.
Thanks,
Billy G

JoshMcMadMac

July 20th, 2007, 06:43 AM

I can't find the fuse for Premium Power Amp. Is it in the amp itself or
in the line.
Thanks,
Billy G

It sticks in the side of the amp. I think it's yellow.

Billy G

July 20th, 2007, 11:34 AM

JoshMcMadMac

July 20th, 2007, 12:13 PM

I see no fuse on the side of the amp. I see a multi wire plug on each side, there is a plate you can remove with 4 screws, this plate is facing down, removing plate exposes cicuit board.Could fuse be inside
of amp.

Thanks
Billy G

No, the fuse sticks out of the side of the amp. If you aren't finding a fuse, you need to find the void where a fuse used to be, and fill it with a fuse. I'm pretty sure it was yellow, and as I recall that would make it a 20A fuse.

Bluegrass

July 20th, 2007, 12:56 PM

On the JBL Prem amp, not the Lux model, the only fuse is #11, a 20 amp fuse in the panel under the dash.
There is a control function on these amps that is controlled by the head unit to turn the amp on and off with the head unit.
If this is not wired in, the amp will be without power.
I just checked my amp both sides and there is no fuse holder.
Reference page 35-01-9 on mounting detail and page 35-01-13 for wire color codes, circuits 137a, 137b. and ground return 694.

Billy G

July 20th, 2007, 01:06 PM

The amp I have is mounted on the trunk deck right below break light fixture which rests inside rear window. Aluminum housing, amp is
about 5 x 6 inches,about 1.5 inch thick, one plug on each side.Looks like the factory install fot he Premium Sound System.

Billy G.

JoshMcMadMac

July 22nd, 2007, 06:46 PM

The amp must have changed after 1989, then. Luckily there is a guy selling the amp I am thinking of, so I borrowed his pictures for this.

http://www.fordvschevy.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=23589&d=1185145105

http://www.fordvschevy.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=23590&d=1185145159

Billy G

July 22nd, 2007, 08:12 PM

My original factory Ford radio/cassette player sounds like it is dead,I tried another head unit(same model) still not a sound,I thought it might be the amp fuse .....that's why I was searching for the fuse.I may have 2 bad head units.I can keep getting pick and pull units but I may keeping getting bad ones. I have 2 questions, Can I find a head unit like mine that is definitely working? Or if I bought a brand new head unit (non-Ford) would that one switch on my amp like the factory head unit does? If it does not......then I may have to buy another amp. It would be nice if I could find a Ford radio/C.D. player that would it right in.

Thanks for your time,
Billy G