View Full Version : Rebuilt engine off ebay (306)
justindwright
January 7th, 2006, 12:08 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-302-306-308-SHORT-BLOCK-350HP-SBF-ENGINE-MOTOR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQitemZ80283 25490
What do you guys think of this, the seller has good reviews. its 800 bucks plus 144 bucks for shipping?? AFR 165's will be going on this 306, typhoon upper and lower intake, and later a supercharger...what ford racing cam should i use? before converting to mass air, i plan to have 24lb injectors..
macx
January 7th, 2006, 03:20 PM
Unfortunately, there's lots of things the Auction doesn't
address. Are the rods new, used, reconditioned, magnafluxed?
Stock rods bolts? (Probably)
Have the main bearing webs been checked for align bore?
Has the crank been checked for straightness and magnafluxed?
What kind of radius was left at the edges of the journals?
Have the crank oil passages been cleaned?
Are the rod bolts new? Probly not. Have they been checked if used?
Has the block had the deck height checked and squared to
the crank centerline? (doesn't say, Probly not.)
Was it honed with torque plates (doesn't say, probly not)
Not that all of that is mandatory, but is good practice on
a performance motor.
The timing chain is not a double roller. Even the stock Ford
one is a double roller.
Sounds like that cam MAY be new, but what brand?
Lots of cheap not-so-hot cams out there.
No doubt it's a good price, but there's lots of questions
unanswered and probly for a good reason.
For that price, it's highly unlikely that many of the machine
operations and checks normally considered important for
a high perf engine were done.
The rings are probly just cast iron, not moly filled.
Not to say it wouldn't run fine, but I'd want lots of more
specific information. Specially about the rods, cam, oil
pump & timing chain.
Also what are the VERIFIED clearances on the crank, rods,
pistons, ring end gaps?
Might work out fine, but IMHO you'd be taking a lot for
granted and thereby putting yourself at risk.
Specially if you're figuring on a hot set of heads like
those AFRs that will really make an engine run.
Also, a stock cam really wouldn't take advantage of
those heads anyway.
If he's selling it for $700, you know he's making some $ on it.
How much does that leave him for parts and machine work?
ESPECIALLY if you're later planning on supercharging it!
Also, it has a 10-1 cr which is just plain too high for any
kind of forced induction. Not to mention the cast pistons
would NOT stand up to a blower!
thunderjet302
January 7th, 2006, 03:25 PM
I wouldn't buy an engine off of Ebay. You would probibly be better talking to a local machiene shop and getting it done there. It might cost more but if you find a good machiene shop it will be well worth the extra cost for a quality engine that will last a long time with the modifications you are planing.
justindwright
January 7th, 2006, 06:59 PM
Well, MacX.. Do you think I could get all of that done to my short block for under or a little over a grand, made into a 306??
90LSC
January 7th, 2006, 07:28 PM
Well, MacX.. Do you think I could get all of that done to my short block for under or a little over a grand, made into a 306??
I'll answer for him....What they (the auction) claim to do is what every shop should do. All of the parts they claim to use are standard fare. Nothing special.
You are aware a 306 is just a 5.0 bored .030 over? Stock crank, rods, etc. Fresh pistons because of the overbore.
I am confident that you can pick up the local news paper or yellow pages and find a shop with the EXACT rebuild...for the same price or less. No shipping charges and they are right down the street if you have any waranty issues.
Have fun.
justindwright
January 7th, 2006, 10:34 PM
Yes i understand that a 306 is a 5.0 bored 30 over... So i could take my low mileage motor to a local machine shop and have them do the same thing for about 800 bucks?
NYC LS8
January 7th, 2006, 11:21 PM
Why would you want a 306? I wouldn't bore it out any more than that if you happened to have a problem with it in the future. You'd be looking at getting a new block after that.
I had the motor that I took from a 92 LSC bored .020 over, just because it needed it. The builder suggested I don't go .030 over on it for the reasons I mentioned.
Plus, I wouldn't buy something like that off eBay unless they were local - in case of any problems with it.
90LSC
January 7th, 2006, 11:45 PM
Yes i understand that a 306 is a 5.0 bored 30 over... So i could take my low mileage motor to a local machine shop and have them do the same thing for about 800 bucks?
You can probably find several machine shops/rebuilders that have 5.0 short blocks on the shelf, ready to go for that price.
90LSC
January 8th, 2006, 08:57 AM
I would like to add that if you wanted to take your shortblock to a shop for a rebuild, chances are good the would not have to bore it. No overbore and keping the old pistons will keep the cost down.
The 5.0 blocks are tough, and unless abused don't always need to be bored.
pro-five-oh
January 8th, 2006, 10:29 AM
There must be a handful of trustworthy machine shops who can do a quality rebuild for the same price or less (no shipping)...less hassle in the long term. Good luck, dude.:)
stang98
January 18th, 2006, 02:46 AM
bad move, if ur running afr heads and any blower that is producin a decent amount of boost u'll end up breaking that block they may have a step up in rods but they are still not forged if ur lookin to spend that type of money go with a level 20 dss block for 950 it can handle 650 hp and put in a forged bottom end trust me it'll cost a lil more but it'll be worth it in the long run
stang98
January 18th, 2006, 02:57 AM
depends on wat u wanna go for, here's a 10 second motor build (i know cuz i built one) bbk cold air, 75mm mass air, 30lbs injectors, 70mm throttle body, edelbrock rpm II, trickflow twisted wedge heads (full port), f cam, long tube headers, 3.73 rear gear, 150 nitrious shot, and some suspension this was on a 90 mustang that i have however. if ur talkin bout racing ur car don't pay alot of money to convert to mass air go to a junk yard pick up a 89-95 mustang wiring harness and use that, u may need the mustang comp as well but u can pick up a new one at any parts store for bout 125, o get rid of the air ride crap if u want to race and that weak 7.5 rear get a good 8.8 WITH A WORKING POSI UNIT! sorry bou caps no one ever checks that lol if interested email me i'll give u a few ways to get the mark VII lower e/t's twistededgeproductions@yahoo.com
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