Speaking of keyless entry pads.

[peppermrj]

Mine, 1985, does not light up anymore. Is it possible to repair? Just a bulb or?

[ekooke]

Sometimes they get confused; with ignition OFF, hold the CLOCK key on the TM down for at least 5 seconds; if it lights then the TM must be removed for testing. If still no light, check fuses 16 & 17. There a couple of things in the TECH section you also may want to try:
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00022.html

http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00004.html

[peppermrj]

Thanks for the reply. How does all of that relate to the exterior keyless entry number pad light?

[pro-five-oh]

It doesn't, the keyless entry pad is self contained according to the shop manual, it has no serviceable parts.

Therefore you can take yours apart and replace the light inside of it, but you need to be real good with electronics IMO.

If you do take it apart, I bet the bulb is a common part at most electronic hobby/supply stores. Tell us how it goes.

[peppermrj]

I will find a replacement first and then start the autopsy. Thanxs guys.

[ekooke]

I will find a replacement first and then start the autopsy. Thanxs guys.

Sorry abut my previous reply; I just answered a question about the TM and still had it on the brain. Do as Pro-Five-Oh writes.

[nailfoot]

Dereck has suggested (for the Town Car anyway) that the light is electro-luminescent and sometimes will not light because it is wet. How does the apply to the Continental? Well, maybe it doesn't....just a possiblity.

[peppermrj]

That makes sense as this has only recently occured with the snow and rain. I wonder if it will work if it ever dries out here. It appears to be well worn as it is used exclusively. I will try a little sealer if it lights up after it dries up.
Thanxs.

[pro-five-oh]

Not a bad idea. The pad on my '83 has become seriously hazy, wonder if it still works. I'd reverse engineer it sometime...oh well, something for another day. :)

[Nick]

The keypad is a self-contained unit and that makes it both water tight and non-serviceable. The opaque rubber used for the keys actually forms a skin that surrounds it. The unit is then potted with a silicone epoxy so that the leads and the light are sealed at the back.

[tribaldragon]

If it is like the Mark unit of similar vintage I dissected one from a junk car (just to see what it looked like). I will post pics later today but I can tell you that it is lit by 3 small incandesent bulbs each one the size of a T-3 LED. I want to replace them with blue LED's but I need to solder them and then reseal the unit as Nick said.

[tribaldragon]

Here we are. The green arrows point to the bulbs. They are on the back. Also, there is supposed to be 5 of the small white "nubs" but I lost one.:dunno: They are what contacts the buttons inside. Everything is laid out in the order it came apart. My EVTM ('87) says the light blue and black wires are power and ground, respectively. (#66 & #57) Same for both Conti's and Marks. These are for the lights only. The buttons use the other 6 wires. What I really wanted to know is if the black buttons from the Explorer would be the same. But I don't know yet.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/2169000-216999/2169637_9_full.jpg

[nicholas77586]

i was wondering that about the new Fords key pads also, I saw one that fit our cars on ebay one time, but it was to much. I know a descnet one from a salvage yard could be fitted somehow, but i dont know bout the wiring

[dallaswreckerdude]

The key pad on my 91 Connie lights up half of it other half doesn't work all the time, also light around the keyhole on the driver's side doesn't light up and the key pad doesn't light up lifting the door handle does when the keys are depressed any ideas? Keyhole light on passenger door does work