Easy upgrades for power on 5.0....

[snak_king]

What are some relativley inexpensive things I can do to my 87 LTC's 5.0 to up the power a bit? The thing accelerates very slowly. I realize that Its a heavy car, but It also has a V8.

[CheeseSteakJim]

It actually has a pretty puny V8 for a car of that size, though.

[Sysanalyst]

What are some relativley inexpensive things I can do to my 87 LTC's 5.0 to up the power a bit? The thing accelerates very slowly. I realize that Its a heavy car, but It also has a V8.
More air/fuel = more power. Greater intake/exhaust temp differential = more power.

Around $100 or less.

1) Colder thermostat
2) less restrictive intake system
3) less restrictive exhaust system
4) camshaft/cam timing changes

Now if you have around $300;
1) Nitrous system
2) performance chip

Now if you have $3000;
1) supercharger
2) turbo charger
3) aluminum small chamber heads

Now if you have $5000;
1) intercooled turbo feeding a supercharger.
2) Big block engine

So the question quickly becomes; What do you consider "Easy"?

The Nitrous systems are fairly easy to install/tune, and work well in the higher RPM ranges, just don't turn on the Nitrous when you are running under 3500K RPM unless you really want to see what an exploding engine looks like. It will easily give you an easy 100 additional HP.

[snak_king]

I definatley wasnt talking about nitrous, or turbocharging. I don't have money for that. I was just wondering if there were any other things on a small scale that I may have missed that will make my LTC a little more driveable. I'm not talking about street racing or anything, I just want it to be a bit more driveable, so I dont have worry about people rear ending me when I merge on to the freeway.

[lairdt]

Unless you swap over to a 5.0 HO motor & computer, most of the previously mentioned changes will make your car run like dirt because the speed density system won't adapt for them.

[Ivan D.]

Regular 5.0 engines (non-HO) do not have forged internals, so running any type of boost would apparently be rather risky in the long run - if it was safe enough I'd have already done it. Now the Mustang/Mark VII powerplants have all the goodies inside, and they are also cheap to acquire, so if you want just get one of those, port it and whatever, the throw a pair of T3s in there and you'll still end up well below the $3000 line.

In the low-cost area most bang for the buck you'll get from upgrading the intake and exhaust systems, for better acceleration you might also wanna instal a different gear set in the differential - the easiest thing is to find a junkyard car with factory tow package and gut its differential, you get 3.55 gears (you most likely have 3.08) and also limited slip.

As for being rearended down the freeway ramps - with the car completely stock I used to enter them at about 20mph and fly out of them at anywhere between 55 and 75mph (depending on road conditions). The mods I've done to my car so far are the following:
- deleted A/C compressor (which wouldn't make too much of a difference for you if yours is in good shape);
- deleted smog system (the piping mess on the passanger side of your engine);
- Mark VII aluminum valve covers (look better, not really a performance mod);
- deleted airbox, intake is now a one-foot-long 3" straight pipe with a big cone filter in the end;
- 19" flex fan (that actually works against you as its drag is higher than that of the stock clutch-fan);
- 2" dual catless exhaust with glasspacks;
- timing bumped to 12.5* BTDC;
- MSD ignition components & Ford Racing wires (completely unnecessary though);
- shift kit for the tranny (holds the gears longer before upshifting).

While none of that is really significant for getting more power, the overall end effect is that even with tires much wider than stock and 250lbs of sand in the trunk the car accelerates better than before, so with no sand it should be like flying around.

[Tman70]

I like Ivan's ideas. 3.55 gears are pretty cheap on Ebay, even with the trac-loc differential. Easily less than $100 to do with a new seal, sleeve and fluid. It's not too hard to replace, either. Or you could go junkyard for the whole rear axle out of another vehicle. Dual exhausts are another relatively easy/cheap upgrade. Together they should give you a little more go.

[gadget73]

Dual exhaust. Stock will help some, if you can do better mufflers with bigger tails than stock it'll help more. The downpipes from manifold through the 4 (yes 4) catalytic converters isn't so bad but if you look at the flange between the cats and the Y or H pipe, the size reduces. Remove that restriction and use 2.25" pipe all the way back and it will help. You also might consider going to a set of stock Mustang headers and an H pipe and doing new duals behind that. By now I'm sure your catalysts are not as efficient as they were new, nor do they flow as well. Stock headers can be found cheap, and if you aren't in an emissions state you can get away with an "off road" or non-catted H pipe. Emissions states will require a catted H. I'm sure someone around with a Mustang or Mark VII will sell you a good condition used pipe if they've upgraded. You can also swap on an HO upper intake and throttle body and get a little more oomph out of it. You might get away with advancing the timing a few degrees, to maybe 12 or 14 degrees btdc but for serious performance you're going to need to open up that engine. You can retrofit the stock motor to HO specs but you're never going to get away with boost or nitrous with the cast pistons. If you open things up, a set of good heads will do wonders for your power. A rear will help with the "seat of the pants" feel but your highway mileage may suffer some.

[bhazard]

An 8.8 from an 87-88 Turbocoupe is a good choice. Disc brakes with ABS, Posi, 3.55 for 5speed and 3.73 for an auto. I dont know if its a direct bolt in, or if its the right width, and you would have to swap axles.

[Obiejuankinobie]

I used to have a slow moving TC ...that was until I had to replace the transmission. I dont know what the guy did but she can really haul bleep

[OVERKILL]

The "HO Upgrade" is a good update.

What I've done to my TC thus far:

1. Electric fan conversion. Takes that big, heavy fan off the water pump, which sucks back power.

2. Bolted on a set of stock (rebuilt) Mustang E7TE cylinder heads. Our engines have almost flat-top pistons and the Mustang heads have smaller chambers. You will get better airflow and more compression with these heads.

3. Put in a stock Mustang camshaft. The Mustangs (up to '88) are also Speed Density, and really, ANY of the HO camshafts will work just fine. It changes your firing order to that of the HO/351, which doesn't load the crank as much. You benefit from a more agressive cam profile, which in turn, makes more power. You'll need the injectors as well as the ECM from a Mark VII to do this swap correctly.

4. Cobra 1.7 Roller rockers. Cheap on any Mustang website in the classifieds. Are a direct bolt-on as they replace the stock stamped steel beasts. Used in conjunction with the HO camshaft and E7TE heads, you'll pick up more power.

5. Explorer Intake. Also available on a Mustang board classifieds, it flows much better than the stock OR the HO intake and has MUCH more even runner flow. Its a 15HP upgrade over the stocker on a Mustang.

6. Dual Exhaust.

7. Upgraded Ignition. I run Accel 300+ race wires and an MSD Blaster TFI coil.

8. Upgrade the TV throttle bushing and make sure you have your TV cable set correctly.

9. Bump up your timing. Mine is at 14 degrees, which is the same as what I run in the 'stang.

10. Gears are next........

[Mr Wiggl3s]

All of what you mentioned would add ~30-50 HP?

[Elemino]

It actually has a pretty puny V8 for a car of that size, though.It's not puny, it has been restricted on purpose. :mad:

BTW... I don't like the idea of swapping out gears in the differential. I like to drive fast on the freeway and I don't want my car soundling like a Honda while I do it.

IMO.. the best thing u could do is get an HO engine and build up around it, or (what I want to do) buy a mustang replacement crate engine [est 315hp with right parts], upgaded intake and parts, the right injectors, upgraded cats and exhaust, and a computer from a Mark VII.

[cason1]

It's not puny, it has been restricted on purpose. :mad:

BTW... I don't like the idea of swapping out gears in the differential. I like to drive fast on the freeway and I don't want my car soundling like a Honda while I do it.

IMO.. the best thing u could do is get an HO engine and build up around it, or (what I want to do) buy a mustang replacement crate engine [est 315hp with right parts], upgaded intake and parts, the right injectors, upgraded cats and exhaust, and a computer from a Mark VII.

Considering most Lincolns that size in the past got a 460, the 302 is a puny engine even with the HO stuff. There is nothing you could do to a 5.0L that would make it sound even close to a Honda. Gears will up your RPM some but if you go with 3.55's or 3.73's you will be fine. Some towing/touring package Towncar's came with 3.55's. Just going off of memory, a Mark VII with 4:10's is only hitting 2500 or so at 70ish on the highway. My girl's Toyota is running 3400-3700 on the highway. Quite a difference.:cool:

[OVERKILL]

All of what you mentioned would add ~30-50 HP?

I would hope not!

The Mustang HO engine is 225HP with the crappy intake, they make around 240HP with the Explorer intake.

Put those same parts and add some compression and roller rockers to the TC engine and I'd HOPE you'd be putting our more than the stock Mustang engine, IE, around 250-ish.

That's a 100HP gain!!

[Elemino]

Considering most Lincolns that size in the past got a 460, the 302 is a puny engine even with the HO stuff. There is nothing you could do to a 5.0L that would make it sound even close to a Honda. Gears will up your RPM some but if you go with 3.55's or 3.73's you will be fine. Some towing/touring package Towncar's came with 3.55's. Just going off of memory, a Mark VII with 4:10's is only hitting 2500 or so at 70ish on the highway. My girl's Toyota is running 3400-3700 on the highway. Quite a difference.:cool:Yea I guess compared to that old continental I want so bad... pictured below... it is considerably smaller. But its not the size of the dog in the fight, blah blah blah u know the rest. Changing my gear ratio would also hurt my fuel mileage. Since I typically drive between 72 and 75 when on an open freeway (not too common here in Dallas) I prefer to have the good fuel mileage in that range. The car has pretty descent acceleration considering its size once you've upgraded the coil, wires, and plugs. So IMO, the upgrades I want and the current gear ration would be wonderful. To be honest, what I REALLY want is more torque, not necessarily horsepower.

[Mr Wiggl3s]

I would hope not!

The Mustang HO engine is 225HP with the crappy intake, they make around 240HP with the Explorer intake.

Put those same parts and add some compression and roller rockers to the TC engine and I'd HOPE you'd be putting our more than the stock Mustang engine, IE, around 250-ish.

That's a 100HP gain!!

Yes, but without the HO?

[gadget73]

Yes, but without the HO?

The E7 heads and the HO camshaft make it an HO. The only difference between the shortblock in a Mustang and the shortblock in a Towncar are the pistons. The Mustang/Mark VII motor has forged pistons and ours are cast aluminum. Really that makes no substantial difference, it just limits the possibility of using a turbocharger, supercharger, or nitrous since the pistons cant handle the heat. Performance wise on a naturally aspirated motor it doesnt really even matter. Most of the magic is in the cam. The 86 Mustang motor had the HO camshaft and the same heads our engines have. They made 200 hp with that setup using the 86 upper intake, which was just a smidge smaller than the 87+ upper intake and used a smaller throttle body (58 mm vs 60 mm). The E7 heads with the 87+ HO upper and 60 mm throttle body are good for 25 hp, and if you port them, they're good for more. A well ported set of heads with the HO cam can easily make 250-275 hp at the crank with a decent intake and exhaust.

I know a guy who has an HO cam with the stock heads in his Grand Marquis, and it runs well. Dropped his quarter mile time from 18.3 to 16.9, and he suffered 1 mpg loss of fuel economy on the highway. With 3.55 gears he gets 21 mpg now instead of 22. A 3.55 gear will not substantially hurt fuel economy on these cars either, and around town it usually helps quite a lot.

[OVERKILL]

I will post updated track times next year, as the track is closed for the season. My best is an 18.00 on street tires with her in stock trim with duals.

[gadget73]

18 flat on a lopo in a Townie is pretty good. 18.0-18.3 is about normal in a Crown Vic, and they're several hundred pounds lighter.

[Elemino]

I could see getting better. 18's may be 'considered' good for the TC, but for a V8 you should definately be getting better.

A couple of weeks ago I was watching my fuel economy on the dash. Got about 22MPG around 75... but speeding up to 79MPH it dropped off to 17MPG! I'm pretty sure changing the gears will make a huge negative effect on my car.

Sorry for not posting the pic earlier... here it is.

http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/3061/lincolncontinental01nk0.th.jpg (http://img383.imageshack.us/my.php?image=lincolncontinental01nk0.jpg)

[lairdt]

Stock engine just doesn't have the power to fight the road & wind resistance without putting your foot into it, sucking your tank dry as it tries. It really is good from a stop to about 45mph, and after that it falls on it's face almost instantly. With an HO swap it's a much much better, but it still can't fight the torque output you'd get from a larger engine.

[Elemino]

Other than from a stand still.. my car's best acceleration is above 60mph. It may have to do with my upgraded coil, wires, and plugs though. I won't argue that an HO swap would help though. It'll definately do that.

[OVERKILL]

Stock engine just doesn't have the power to fight the road & wind resistance without putting your foot into it, sucking your tank dry as it tries. It really is good from a stop to about 45mph, and after that it falls on it's face almost instantly. With an HO swap it's a much much better, but it still can't fight the torque output you'd get from a larger engine.

You'd think so, but, unless the bigger engine is "upgraded" as well, you don't really gain a whole lot of torque.

Example:

1. Stock Mustang HO with its awful intake makes 225HP/300lb-ft of torque.
2. Stock 302 in 1990 F-150 makes 185HP/270lb-ft of torque
3. Stock 351 in 1990 F-250 makes 200HP/300lb-ft of torque
4. Stock 460 in 1990 F-250 makes 245HP/400lb-ft of torque.

Now, with my "HO Upgrade" I expect to be making ~250HP and about 320lb-ft. That's more HP than the 460 in 1990 and shy 80lb-ft, not bad for giving up 158ci. I know that my Mustang, with its lowly 302 makes 300lb-ft to the wheels from 2,500RPM to 5,000RPM, so, flywheel, that's about 352lb-ft. 48lb-ft shy of the 460. With my new camshaft, the engine is supposed to make 321HP/340lb-ft to the tires. That equates to 376HP/398lb-ft of torque. It'll have 120HP on the 460 and make the same torque. Is it modified? Yes, of course it is, but it IS possible to make the little engine ACT bigger by throwing money and the right parts at it.

If I can get more or the same HP as the stock 460 with my HO swap, even if I am giving up a bit of torque, and still get the 302 gas mileage, I'll stick with my 302.

[Elemino]

There was a 460 in 1990?

[CheeseSteakJim]

Yes, on the F-250's and 350's. All the way up to 1997, if I remember correctly.

[gadget73]

I know they existed to at least 1995. Had one at the marina, and it had a lot of pulling power.

[Elemino]

Wow... did not know that.

They probably discontinued it and went to the V10... thats a very big V8.

According to MSN

1995 XL SuperCab DRW 2WD

7.5L 245 hp V8

245hp @ 4000 RPM

400lb-ft @ 2200 RPM

That's a big engine. Fuel Mileage must have sucked. I bet it did have a lot of pulling power with 400lb-ft of torque. IMO an engine that size should be used in muscle cars, not trucks. When it gets that big its time to just get a diesel. I guess it just depends on how cheap you can get gas though. Back then a gallon was only 99 cents here for regular.

[lairdt]

You'd think so, but, unless the bigger engine is "upgraded" as well, you don't really gain a whole lot of torque.

Example:

1. Stock Mustang HO with its awful intake makes 225HP/300lb-ft of torque.
2. Stock 302 in 1990 F-150 makes 185HP/270lb-ft of torque
3. Stock 351 in 1990 F-250 makes 200HP/300lb-ft of torque
4. Stock 460 in 1990 F-250 makes 245HP/400lb-ft of torque.

Anytime you put a new engine in a vehicle you'd be silly to put a "stock" engine in.

[OVERKILL]

Anytime you put a new engine in a vehicle you'd be silly to put a "stock" engine in.

Well, have you priced doing up a 460 lately? Because you'll need heads, intake, camshaft, lifters, rockers, probably an over-bore and then pistons, bearings, machine work, carb, timing set, gaskets, balancer....etc.

Parts for the 385-series engines are no where NEAR as cheap as they are for the smallblock Windsors. So, unless your goal is to make 1,000HP, you are much better off building a Windsor. Big Blocks have the cool factor, but they aren't practical. I know of a number of 351-based strokers (408) that make over 700HP ON MOTOR!, no need to spend the extra money on the big motor unless you just feel like it.

A 460/514 can make great power, but the money you are going to put into it to make it "non stock" could get you an already built 351 or 302-based engine from CHP or DSS and it would make more power for the same money.

I've got a total of about $500.00 into my HO conversion, and, given that its a Lincoln Town Car, NOT a drag car, I'm sure the 250HP is going to be MORE than adequate. I have my race car, it weighs 2,800lbs, the Lincoln doesn't.

You have to look at this from the side of practicality.

The reason I compared a STOCK 460 to the HO conversion is because, if you shop around, they are going to be around the same price. The difference is of course, you can slap the HO conversion parts on and go......Where as putting in a 460, well, that's gonna be a bit of work and the AOD isn't going to bolt-up, so then you need a tranny...........

The game gets expensive fast.

[lairdt]

Well, have you priced doing up a 460 lately?

Never was considering putting a 460 in (already have a 429 car), was thinking more like 351/393W. Keeping the power in the 300hp range so the AOD doesn't melt but have the torque where my Lincoln likes to cruise in the rpm range is my goal.

[Elemino]

Never was considering putting a 460 in (already have a 429 car), was thinking more like 351/393W. Keeping the power in the 300hp range so the AOD doesn't melt but have the torque where my Lincoln likes to cruise in the rpm range is my goal.Whatever stock is, my car likes to cruise around 74 or 75 mph. That's about as fast as it gets with the best fuel mileage and I'm not really pushing it at that speed. I've gotten up to 24mpg at that speed using cruise control. If you change gearing and stuff, things will change considerably.

[OVERKILL]

I think a big inch windsor with some nice heads would work well. I also think that it would make over 300HP and probably kill the AOD. I think the HO swap is about as far as you can go with a stock AOD before you need to upgrade it.

[gadget73]

Yeah, in stock form, I wouldn't expect an AOD, especially one with a fair amount of miles, to handle much beyond about 250 hp and be reliable for too long. On the other hand, its extremely possible to build an AOD to take a pretty decent amount of power.

[lairdt]

Already have a beefed AOD, planning for 3x stock HP level.

They get 380hp from a 347 with ARS or TW heads, and I might go that direction. They don't indicate peak torque rpm though. Still looking for an intake/TB I can turn around and not have to reverse cable direction (with longer cables) to make it work.

On flat ground I get 23.5mpg at 72mph. The instant it hits any incline or wind, mileage drops to 18mpg to maintain speed. On long trips it's irritating that it doesn't have the power that an Interstate cruiser should, especially important when you're spinning 33% overdrive to avoid lugging down so much before a downshift.

[Elemino]

Yeah, in stock form, I wouldn't expect an AOD, especially one with a fair amount of miles, to handle much beyond about 250 hp and be reliable for too long. On the other hand, its extremely possible to build an AOD to take a pretty decent amount of power.Is it possible to do that and still have a comfortable ride?

My car's cruise control doesnt handle long inclines very well, but my foot does. :D Unfortunately in stock form, the bottom line is the car is and will always be underpowered.

[Sixlitre]

Stock engine just doesn't have the power to fight the road & wind resistance without putting your foot into it, sucking your tank dry as it tries. It really is good from a stop to about 45mph, and after that it falls on it's face almost instantly. With an HO swap it's a much much better, but it still can't fight the torque output you'd get from a larger engine.

I agree on the wind resistance

I count myself very fortunate to have the 5.0 litre engine in the newer, more areodynamic 1990 body.

The change from 1989's .048 drag co-efficient to 1990's .034 drag co-efficient is a whopping 29.16% decrease in drag.

I'd really like to drop in an EFI 351, near bone stock and see if mileage actually improves in a TC.

If you ordered one for a Bronco or truck you'd be sure to get the high torque unit, as opposed to a 351 which sacrifices torque to get more hp.

Like someone already said, it'd be awful nice if someone built a stroked 347 for just torque and not just hp.

Might be the perfect motor for our town cars

Sixlitre

[Elemino]

Like someone already said, it'd be awful nice if someone built a stroked 347 for just torque and not just hp.

Might be the perfect motor for our town cars

SixlitreI didn't say it, but I want it. :D

What I'm really after is more torque.

[Tman70]

JFYI, you don't need longer cables for the TB withthe intake reversed. You just need to change the lever. Plenty of guys have done the conversion that way without a problem.

[gadget73]

Is it possible to do that and still have a comfortable ride?


Yes. The valve body calibration is what gives it a smooth or rough shift. Usually a high performance transmission will end up with a somewhat more firm shift just because excess slipping for that mushy shift burns the clutches out, but it doesn't need to be harsh or anything.

[Elemino]

Yes. The valve body calibration is what gives it a smooth or rough shift. Usually a high performance transmission will end up with a somewhat more firm shift just because excess slipping for that mushy shift burns the clutches out, but it doesn't need to be harsh or anything.I wouldn't mind a slightly firmer shift, but I don't want anything like my dad's car after the transmission was rebuilt and that put in that kit. It's just down right rough to the point where it feels like the car actually has a problem.

[gadget73]

Someone put too much shift kit in, or didn't tune the pressure quite right then. Mine is firm but not harsh at all. Shifts are solid without whiplash. My truck on the other hand has a neck-snap 1-2 shift. I might have that changed when its due for a service. The guy who built the trans apologised about that and said he'd gotten a bit aggressive with the spring changes. He was going to fix it, but I needed the truck before he had a chance to re-tweak it.