heater core

[MichiganTeddyBear]

Ok, I am gonna ask... does someone have a 'shortened' version of the heater core replacement process??? looking in the service manual, it looks like it will take me about a month to do it! also, does the AC have to be dis-assembled to do this job?? it looks like from the manual....

Keep in mind, I am a fat old(er, well 42) man, with fat fingers and not quite enough tools to do the job right!

I may be putting it back on the road soon, and its not quite warm enough yet to bypass the heater core.

[Fordace]

:D email sent............

CONTINENTAL EVAPORATOR CORE REPLACEMENT


Disconnect battery ground cable.
Remove RH finish molding by pulling up to unsnap six (6) clips and disconnect wiring.
Open glove compartment door and depress both sides of glove compartment inward and lower glove compartment door toward floor.
Remove LH finish molding by pulling up to unsnap six (6) clips.
Remove four (4) push pins from RH and LH lower insulators. Remove insulators.
Remove five (5) screws retaining lower instrument panel steering column cover and remove cover.
Remove four (4) screws retaining lower instrument panel steering column reinforcement. Remove reinforcement.
Remove four (4) nuts and absorber assembly.
Remove tilt wheel lever.
Remove two (2) screws retaining lower steering column shroud. Remove lower steering column shroud.
Disconnect PRNDL cable and all steering column electrical connections.
Remove four (4) nuts retaining steering column. Lower steering column.
Remove screw, at steering column opening, retaining instrument panel to brake pedal support.
Remove two (2) screws under ash receptacle which retain instrument panel to evaporator case.
Remove headlamp switch knob.
Remove five (5) screws from instrument cluster opening finish panel and remove panel.
Remove four (4) screws retaining instrument cluster. Disconnect electrical connectors.
Remove three (3) screws to remove glove compartment assembly.
Remove two (2) screws from instrument panel to cowl top brace and one (1) screw from passenger air bag support bracket.
Remove both side demister grilles by snapping out to release.
Remove two (2) screws and remove center defrost grille.
Remove LH and RH cowl side trim panels.
Disconnect electrical connections at RH cowl side panel.
Remove two (2) lower screws at instrument panel, one at each end.
Remove three (3) upper instrument panel retaining screws and gently pull instrument panel away from RH side of cowl panel.
Place a drain pan or suitable container under heater hose connections at the cowl panel.
Discharge refrigerant from the A/C system at service access gauge port valve located on suction line, following the recovery procedure.
CAUTION:OBSERVE ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS.
Disconnect the liquid line and the suction accumulator/drier inlet tube from the evaporator core at the cowl panel. Cap refrigerant lines and evaporator core to prevent the entrance of dirt and excess moisture.
Disconnect heater hoses from heater core tubes and plug hoses with suitable 5/8" (16mm) and 3/4" (19mm) plugs. Cap heater core tubes to prevent coolant loss from heater core during removal of evaporator core.
Disconnect vacuum supply hose from in-line vacuum check valve in engine compartment.
Remove screw holding instrument panel shake brace to evaporator case and remove instrument panel shake brace.
Remove two (2) screws retaining floor register (or rear seat adapter) to bottom of evaporator case.
Disconnect the vacuum line, electrical connections and aspirator hose from the evaporator case.
Remove three (3) nuts retaining evaporator case to cowl panel in engine compartment.
Remove two (2) screws retaining support brackets to cowl top panel.
Carefully pull the right end of the instrument panel away from the cowl panel, pull the evaporator case away from the cowl and remove the evaporator case from the vehicle. Place the evaporator case on a work bench.
Remove the evaporator core from the case following the procedure in the appropriate service manual.
Install the new core in the case and seal the top of the case as outlined in the appropriate service manual.
Install the evaporator case in the vehicle by reversing the removal procedure.

[Fordace]

It's all in the evap case, the heater core and everything. I never take the dash completely out. I just unbolt it and pull the right side back as far as I can and then tie it back with rope/string to the back seat area. You have to keep it high on the right side to slip the whole box out from under it, of course the center console has to come out first....that alone sucks........the hardest part is getting the A/C lines off, especially when they are that old. You should be spraying the inside of the spring-lock couplers on the A/C lines as soon as possible to let them soak. Take a can of Rust Bust or PB Blaster, and get the red spray stick that it comes with. Heat it up with a lighter and make a U turn in the end of the straw. Then hold it behind the spring lock and spray it real good. Don't let go of the stick though, it might hit you in the eyes.......lol ( seriously)

Rich

[MichiganTeddyBear]

center console.. hmm dont have that on my cars (either of them). I know it sounds dumb, or even stupid, but I plan on taking the core from my parts car (and using that one for practice on removing the stuff I need to) and using it in the 91.

yea, they don't cost much new, but I dont have much $ anywho. if I destroy/mangle the one in the parts car, I will get a new one and use it. but what good is a parts car if you cant use its parts??? I have pulled a lot of trim and such from it allready (interior is same color as my 91's) and already have the I/P out of both cars (couple steps saved).

Looking at the instructions, its still a pretty big job, but not as bad looking as the service manual makes it look.

[towncar95]

hey michigan

did you ever try that heater core fix that someone had in the mark section? the one how you just put the sealer stuff in the heater core? my connie needs one too. not real bad just a slow slow .....
anyway one time i did a heater core on my 1985 cougar. it was hard but i did it. good luck

[MichiganTeddyBear]

no, I havnt tried that route yet.

as far as my lincoln is concerned, I prefer to do it right the first time. right now is a prime time for me to get the core changed (currently the car is parked with a bad alt, and no $$$ lined up to get it rebuilt). Only problem is , my A/C kinda works (just a little low on freon), and I dont want to just dump it into the air, trying to be a little bit enviromentally friendly, not to mention brings less questions when I take it in to get it refilled if the same shop just evac'ed it. around here, most ac shops wont just 'filler up' with freon, or r134 either one. If you come in with low refridgerant level, they will ALL go over the system looking for a leak, and finding one even if you dont have one, and of course charging you more all the time.. The powers that be are always trying to catch someone doing that up here in the great white north.

[Fordace]

You could convert it to R134A, it's way cheaper, and you can get it at Walmart:)

on average, it's about 5 degrees warmer than R-12......because of the chemistry involved....I put it in my little Toyota Celica, it works fine....

[MichiganTeddyBear]

that was a thought I had, but right now, just trying to find the time/money to get my heater core changed, and the alt rebuilt so I can drive it again.

[towncar95]

fordace
do you need any special tools in doing the heater core, for the spring couplers? im debating on doing the heater core fix , with a sealer, like KIT said in a mark post. but also thinking of just doing it . the leak is not that bad. but it does smear up the windows over the course of 2 weeks or so.

[MichiganTeddyBear]

feel lucky, mine are fogged up pretty bad after just a day or so... sigh... and I still havn't gotten it done yet.. too many things going on, not enough days to do them...

[towncar95]

well thats something to be thankful for michigan :)
maybey you can use yours as a sauna :):)

[MichiganTeddyBear]

I never thought of that idea... :)

[Fordace]

fordace
do you need any special tools in doing the heater core, for the spring couplers? im debating on doing the heater core fix , with a sealer, like KIT said in a mark post. but also thinking of just doing it . the leak is not that bad. but it does smear up the windows over the course of 2 weeks or so.

Yes you need these......

[towncar95]

thanks fordace
i did a heater core on my 1985 cougar once. it had the 5.0 engine.
i cant remember but i dont think i disconnected the air conditioner lines. would you know/say there is much difference in doing the 3.8 engine, versus the 5.0 engine?

[MichiganTeddyBear]

its the difference in the body style/year, not so much the engine difference.

[pro-five-oh]

would you know/say there is much difference in doing the 3.8 engine, versus the 5.0 engine?

The difference is mostly in the level of pain required for access. 5.0 Mustangs were easy, but I assume the Conti will be about as hard as a Cougar. :(

[MichiganTeddyBear]

having not done the 92 cougars, couldn't tell ya, but everyone seems to say the conti is about the same as a taurus... buried in dash, kinda in middle (at least thats where the hoses go in thru the firewall).

[Fordace]

Cougars worse In my opinion.......

[hmott]

I'm in the middle of this. I have everything done down to this point.

Disconnect the liquid line and the suction accumulator/drier inlet tube from the evaporator core at the cowl panel. Cap refrigerant lines and evaporator core to prevent the entrance of dirt and excess moisture

And I'm lost. I don't understand this step. Basically I think I just need to disconnect the AC system but I'm LOST as to how to do that. I believe from the post above I need a special tool, where can I get it and what is it called? If anyone had a picture or a little more detail I think I could get her back on the road before winter with good heat :)

Also thanks a TON fordace I was ready to tow it to a service station before I saw this post! Now I'm down to just the last little piece and I think I'm home free.

[Fordace]

yes, you need a special spring lock disconnect tool set, let me see if I can dig up a picture.......you need the white one, and the black one, maybe....hold on

[hmott]

I see you have a picture of it above and some searches show similar pictures. I just don't understand how it works. It looks like a little piece of plastic not a tool. Should I just go find one and then I'll understand?

I've not actually let the refrigerant out because I just read I'd need to a few minutes ago. I think messing with the AC has me a little spooked. How bad is it to just let 'er go? The car won't currently run (dash out, wires disconnected, hoses off the engine) to take it somewhere to remove it. Should I replace any of the AC stuff while I have it apart? Man I can't believe how quick you where.. I can't thank you enough for helping me get this done.

[Fordace]

http://img288.imageshack.us/img288/433/springlockskv7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


You should have these all sprayed up with lubricant for a day or so before attempting removal. The one 5/16 bolt has to come out on the round bracket of the dryer.

http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/5515/ac1hm2.jpg

I would have the A/C evacuated, but if you can't drive the car, well, then.....it's your choice

[hmott]

Thanks so much! I ended up not letting the refigerant go, it had none in it :confused: Should anything be replaced for sure? I got new o-rings and air conditioner oil for when it gets put back together. I have owned the car for about a year now without the ac working, now I know why. I'd guess its not had refigerant at all in that time, maybe longer.

Anyway, I got the new heater core installed and I started putting it back together. I hope to have it back on the road next weekend, didn't get it finished this weekend. Its just a matter of remembering how it all goes back together now, I should have taken pictures and baggied everything. I figured it would be an easy job when I started it, not sure I could have finished it without your guys help.

[MichiganTeddyBear]

if there was no refriderant in the system, its got a leak (with luck the o-rings you already replaced).. these A/C systems are totally sealed and should never need refriderant added in normal use.. however, over the years, the orings dry out and leak, and other things can leak too.

you will need to take it to a shop to evacuate the air from the system before it gets refilled.. they will be able to look for leaks too.

[hmott]

Just wanted to give you guys a big thanks!! This was my first ever attempt at changing a heater core, or anything in the lincoln (except rear springs that took me 6 months). I'm so glad I did it now.

Anyway, I finally got everything finished up on sunday. It took me longer than I wanted but other things came up, as usual. I still don't have the air recharged but its the beginning of winter so no hurry on that. Which is also why I got off my butt to get it done, the garage isn't heated. It took me 2 good weekends of work all total, which isn't to bad I don't think.

I can't believe how happy I am with the results. I drove it to work today and its blowing heat like it should, turns off like it should, and no nasty anti-freeze smell. And best of all everything else still works also, so I didn't mess anything up putting it back together :D

[MichiganTeddyBear]

get the AC recharged as soon as you can.. todays cars use it during the winter (as long as the temps are not tooooooo cold) to improve defroster operation... warm dry air works better at defrosting/defogging than warm damn air....

[DustyLBottoms]

get the AC recharged as soon as you can.. todays cars use it during the winter (as long as the temps are not tooooooo cold) to improve defroster operation... warm dry air works better at defrosting/defogging than warm damn air....

I hate that warm damn air. ;)

[MichiganTeddyBear]

get the AC recharged as soon as you can.. todays cars use it during the winter (as long as the temps are not tooooooo cold) to improve defroster operation... warm dry air works better at defrosting/defogging than warm damn air....

I hate that warm damn air. ;)

ok.. what a typo I made.. go for warm DAMP air... and I didn't even see it till you chimed in Dusty... LOL

[DustyLBottoms]

ok.. what a typo I made.. go for warm DAMP air... and I didn't even see it till you chimed in Dusty... LOL

Eh, I wasn't trying to knock ya down, just thought it was funny. ;)

[MichiganTeddyBear]

Eh, I wasn't trying to knock ya down, just thought it was funny. ;)

it aint no thing Dusty... I just have been out of it mentally all day

[hmott]

well.. I guess I'll be tearing it up again. My pndr12 selector isn't lighting up, and the switches on the right side don't work (select,reset,something). I guess I didn't get something plugged in correctly. I'll get the AC recharged as soon as I can, I think a new front wheel bearing is in my future first though :eek: Oh well, should be fun.

[Sysanalyst]

Hey, I have the shortest version of all on changing the heater core on any Lincoln;

1) Disassemble the entire vehicle (all nuts, bolts, fasteners).
2) look at heater core that is left.
3) Reassemble the entire vehicle around the new heater core.

[DustyLBottoms]

Hey, I have the shortest version of all on changing the heater core on any Lincoln;

1) Disassemble the entire vehicle (all nuts, bolts, fasteners).
2) look at heater core that is left.
3) Reassemble the entire vehicle around the new heater core.

I got one better!

1.) Take vehicle to Dealer
2.) Enjoy coffee, TV, and bothersome New cars salesman while car is fixed.

:cool:

[MichiganTeddyBear]

I got one better!

1.) Take vehicle to Dealer
2.) Enjoy coffee, TV, and bothersome New cars salesman while car is fixed.

:cool:

I will add to that..

step 3... pay out the ass when done

[DustyLBottoms]

I will add to that..

step 3... pay out the ass when done

:dunno: For some people that a small price to pay for a warranty, ease of mind, and a quick repair.

[MichiganTeddyBear]

your right dusty, but when your as broke as me, thats not an option LOL:boohoo:

[hmott]

Hey, I have the shortest version of all on changing the heater core on any Lincoln;

1) Disassemble the entire vehicle (all nuts, bolts, fasteners).
2) look at heater core that is left.
3) Reassemble the entire vehicle around the new heater core.


Isn't that what the steps above pretty much do? It certainly felt like it!

[Sysanalyst]

That is how I contend any Ford product is ever built; The assembly line starts out with a heater core and blend door actuator...

[MichiganTeddyBear]

so I have heard, although I havn't yet to actually experience it...

I was dreading changing the core in my 94 Jimmy.. turned out to be a cakewalk compared to what is needed for the Conti's.. and I hear the TC's aint no better

[Fordace]

Hey MTB, it's gonna be getting really, REALLY COLD ...BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
soon up there in yonder woods....:D

[MichiganTeddyBear]

yea, I just froze my arse off walkin from work to the party store to buy my daily beverage (round trip is only 3 mins).

BUT, I have HEAT in the car... well, almost.. my trip distance from home to work is JUST enough to get enough heat in the engine so the EATC fires up the blower just as I pull into the drive at work!

I put some stop leak in the heater core and that has at least stopped the leak for now...

[DustyLBottoms]

That is how I contend any Ford product is ever built; The assembly line starts out with a heater core and blend door actuator...

Ha! I agree with you there - for Volvo's the worst is the Pre-"Fordified" 850/x70 models; 12 hours labor to get the heatercore & Evaporator. And they ALL failed, it was a design flaw that allowed leaves & dirst & crap to sit againt the core & evap and hold moisture there until it all rusted out. Volvo released a kit to add a cabin air filter to try and fix it.