rear pads

[shaune]

Hi, guys. I'm going to be doing the rear pads tomorrow-
weather permitting.

Is there any things to watch out for such as parts that
are prone to breaking easily if not handled properly, etc.?

Pads are usually very simple to install but you know
"Murphy's Law" seems to follow me wherever I go. Lol.

Tricks/advice to the unforseen would be greatly appreciated
if at all even necessary.

Thanks!
Shaune.

[Bluegrass]

Do you know how it's done?
Remove the emg brake cable clevises.
Remove the pins using an Allen wrench. Mine is 7mm.
Remove the discs.
Back the pistons in all the way using a tool.
Assemble the new pads with the disc in place and test adjust the pistons outward for about .055" clearence or adjust until the emg levers will go off their rests about a 1/2 " when assembled on the car. Use a lug nut to hold the disc fast for fitting each time.
These brakes donot drag the discs like the front.
They must have just the right clearence not to much and not to little or there can be binding drag from heat expansion or a lock up from emg lever 'over travel'.

[Nick]

By back the pistons in, he means the pistons must be screwed/turned back into the caliper.

[demonswede]

I had a problem using the allen hex so I had to use a bit & a wrench as the big allen socket & the ratchet didn't fit due to interference with the shock mounting (I think it was).

It is always wise to have a working spare set of working rear calipers. The rears are very expensive - I had to swap mine on one car - & the rear rebuild kit is also very expensive.

[Jud149]

When backing in the pistons, open the bleeder. This will prevent pushing old fluid back into the lines and make the turning of the pistons easier as there is less resistence. One other thing that I ran into on my '91 LSC is that the new pads wouldn't fit in when using the original anti rattle/shims that go on each side of the pad. After trying several different brands, including Ford, that turned out to all be the same size, I finally just disposed of the shims and have been running without them for several years now with no problems.

[JoshMcMadMac]

Be sure to properly install the anti-rattle clips.

[shaune]

Excellent, thanks to all that have replied :-)

My dad is going to do them as he has a lot
more experience.

Thanks again :-)

[88MK7Man]

How exactly do you adjust the clearance with the calipers mounted back in place? I've never set the clearance but have replaced the rear pads once a year.

[Bill89LSC]

How exactly do you adjust the clearance with the calipers mounted back in place? I've never set the clearance but have replaced the rear pads once a year.

You don't. You have to remove the calipers and pads till it's right.

[shaune]

well we finally got the job done today. the one cotter pin
broke while trying to pull it out so we had to punch that
out - no big deal there, but when we did the passengers
side we ended up taking out the shock at the bottom to
gain access to the bottom hex bolt.

Everything went well and the wheels are cool to the touch
:) thanks again.

[Bluegrass]

Nice when it all works out.
Did you happen to realize the relationship of the piston adjustment to emergency lever travel?
This is were you can set the pad clearence on that basis alone by adjusting to about 1/2" of travel off the lever stops and be very close to optium clearence.
The emergency lever moves 3 balls out of there seats to force the pads against the discs.
If this travel becomes excessive, the balls get to far out of their seats and lock up the pads. They usually can't be reset once that happens.
Normally the emg brake should be operated every so often to keep the pad clearence automaticly the right amount over the life of the pad thickness.
This is the piston screw function at work.
Good luck.

[Hensley]

You had to remove a shock to change the pads? I think I'll be paying to have my brakes done.

[Nick]

Poke around and you will see that the suspension and brakes are pretty easy to service. You only need to remove the bottom bolt of the shock, but even still, the shock is easy to change. If you shocks haven't been done in a while, it might be a good idea to take them off to check for resistance. Mine were shot and I couldn't tell when it was on the car.

As with all things, there is a small learning curve. If you're willing to learn, you'll do OK with the car. Having done brakes on a few different cars, I refuse to pay to have them done ever again.

[shaune]

You had to remove a shock to change the pads? I think I'll be paying to have my brakes done.

It really wasn't that big of a deal. It was just the bottom
bolt we took out to move it off to the side to make room
for the ratchet with the 7mm hex to fit in just right. :)

[1989LSC]

The rear shocks are real simple to move, I also had to take my bottom bolt out, I did new rear shocks,bags, pads and calipers all in one afternoon.


John

[Hensley]

I need to get over my fear of working on the brakes (and save some cash as well!). I'll do about anything else myself maintenance wise, but haven't touched the brakes. My wife's Jeep seems to need new pads about every six months. (they just don't understand to let off the gas when they see the light is RED AHEAD).

[John Dancy]

...
This is the piston screw function at work.
Good luck.
BlueGrass.
I have read that this is known as the 'automatic brake adjustment feature', by setting your emergency brake every now and then.

Is what you said true of all Mark VIIs or just the 1988 through 1992 models?