New Old '89 TC Questions

[Micetic]

Hi,
I am new to the Town Car owners family. I had driven a 1989 Mercury Marquis which is somewhat similiar, but this new old Town Car has so much more class. I have a few problems that I would appreciate opinions about.

1. Drivers side rear door lock is stuck locked and will not open by hand to with the power locks thus making the door inoperable. Is this just a actuator motor that is stuck in the lock position?

2. The drivers side rear window does not operate, is the motor probably shot or could this be related to question #1?

3. The power antenna is bent and does not full extend, any tips where to get a new one inexpensively?

4. What is the big service for this, I want to change everything that would be recommended, e.g. fluids, filters, etc. Anyone have a comprehensive list of what is recommended?

Thanks for your assistance! Here are some pictures of my new old baby.

http://d.im.craigslist.org/lr/V7/Osio6sjsGl2lRY4iALFxXGDITglv.jpg

http://d.im.craigslist.org/68/s9/vqqOEeb2N4itJqP1NE3VoXvQ68x7.jpg

[SouthernLincoln]

That certainly is one nice looking TC. Beats the crap out of mine by a long shot. I can't say much about the locks and window, i'm still troubleshooting that myself on my 89. What i can say is give it a full tune up, including o2 sensors. Also change your oil and filter You'll thank yourself, and the car will too.

[gadget73]

Probably the lock actuator motor has seized causing the lock to be stuck. If you can get it open by hand, open the door, and remove the door panel. The lock motor is inside directly below the latch assembly.

Does the window motor make any noise? If you can hear the motor running and it makes a thunk-thunk-thunk sound it probably needs the bushings replaced. If it doesn't run at all, you might be able to clean up the commutator on the motor and make it go, or it may need a replacement motor.

All the fluids should be changed, trans, brake, engine oil, rear differential, coolant, and power steering. I'd also have the front end inspected to make sure there is no excess play in any parts. I would also check to make sure the TV bushing is still where it should be, and replace it with the brass one as soon as possible.

http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00052.html

[Micetic]

Probably the lock actuator motor has seized causing the lock to be stuck. If you can get it open by hand, open the door, and remove the door panel.

So far I am unable to get the lock up by hand and I tried some pliers with rubber to protect the lock nob and failed at pulling it out that way. Is there a way to get the door unlocked so I can open it another way?

[skinhead]

Wow, you're in a tough situation. I never heard of a actuator going bad to the point where the door cannot unluck. I have a 94 TC, but my friend has 87 TC that I help him work on sometimes. If the door panel on the 89 is anything like the 87, then you can try this:

Since you cannot take off the door panel without opening the door, you will have to take out the chrome trim piece that is behind the door handle. There should be one or two visible screws that hold this on, then you can slip it off, past the handle. Now you will have much more access to the mechanicals and I think you should be able to see the handle and lock linkage. Now, I forgot which one is which, but maybe you could try and playing with the linkages and see if you can get the door to unlock and pop open.

[Ivan D.]

Hi Micetic,

I just looked at my '88 and I think you might actually be able to remove the door panel with the door closed - you will have to remove the bottom of the rear seat for that, but it's not that big of a deal. There is however one screw in the back of the door panel (near the latch) that might give you hard time, so open your passenger-side rear door, find that screw, and make sure you can get to it on the locked-up door.

About your window - I had the same problem, window did not work, motor was quite- turns out lubricating the motor gears and the window linkage and tracks was all it took to bring it back to life. I was actually quite pissed at myself cause I only fixed it this summer, and the whole last year I drove around with only 3 windows working and no A/C at all.

Oh, the antenna - are there any junkyards in your area? That's the cheapest way usually, as a matter of fact i need to do that myself as my antenna got broken off by a drunk freshman in May (his engine mysteriously blew up on him several days later) and now it's nicely stuck.

[joedogg]

Your lock actuator is probably completely stuck. Yes you can get the panel off as long as you get the back seat out.

As far as the window, when you push the switch does anything at all happen? Does it seem like there is a pull on the electrical system (lights dimming a little or anything?) If so pull the motor out and see if it runs, if it does check this out. Move the window up and down and spray some carb cleaner all over the window regulator's moving parts to get rid of rust and old grease then give it the treatment with some white lithium grease. The one window in my car that NEVER opearated is now the best one in the car thanks to this treatment.

[87 town]

Hi,
I am new to the Town Car owners family. I had driven a 1989 Mercury Marquis which is somewhat similiar, but this new old Town Car has so much more class. I have a few problems that I would appreciate opinions about.

1. Drivers side rear door lock is stuck locked and will not open by hand to with the power locks thus making the door inoperable. Is this just a actuator motor that is stuck in the lock position?

2. The drivers side rear window does not operate, is the motor probably shot or could this be related to question #1?

3. The power antenna is bent and does not full extend, any tips where to get a new one inexpensively?

4. What is the big service for this, I want to change everything that would be recommended, e.g. fluids, filters, etc. Anyone have a comprehensive list of what is recommended?

Thanks for your assistance! Here are some pictures of my new old baby.

http://d.im.craigslist.org/lr/V7/Osio6sjsGl2lRY4iALFxXGDITglv.jpg

http://d.im.craigslist.org/68/s9/vqqOEeb2N4itJqP1NE3VoXvQ68x7.jpg

Hi and Welcome.
Nice looking TC.
1)On the locked back door, join my club. I seems to be related with the door "latch" being stuck. You may try a couple things on your own which will occassionally get mine open. Need to get some lube in the mechanisms. Spray some wd-40 or similar lube down the pop up lock area, up into the door handle area from the inside, aiming in all directions and get some to run down under the horizontal and vertical rubber moldings on both sides of the window. You may even be able, by using the spray straw to get near the latch area itself by spraying between the door seams. In short, anywhere you can to get some lube in there. This may sound dumb here, but...from outside the car, using the heel of your hand, pound on the door, usually in the area side molding has worked for me, while at the same time someone is trying to open the door using the handle and even, at the same time, popping your power lock switch up and down. I have usually been able to hit the right combo, pulling on handle and pounding at the same time to get the latch to release. Once you get the door opend, lube the heck out of the latch area using the spray straw. It may also be a good idea to open up the door panel from the inside and lube all you can. Typically, these back doors are not used too often and seem to seize up in that latch area. If all fails, a decent body man can open it with special tools for you.
2) Driver door not working... If you hear the motor working as you run the switch, your motor is probably good. BTW, this issue has nothing to do with your rear door not opening. If you hear nothing from the motor, it may be stuck, needs replacement or wiring connection bad. To see if it is stuck, there is an old trick I know of. Your window motor sits near the bottom of the door within the panel. There is a way, and I forget exactly...but, if you take a "long" screwdriver and locate the motor using a pen light with the windows down and are "sure" that the screwdriver is on the motor, you can tap, firmly and very carefully, the end of the screwdriver with a hammer to get the motor unstuck in combo with working the window switch. You can also remove the inside door panel and tap the motor directly without any fear of breaking any glass. If you are in the panel, you want to check all the wiring connections also. If after the above, you still have no power, you may look at replacing the motor. I think there is a "how to/tech tip" on this.
IF on the other hand, you have power coming from the motor, you can use good ole WD-40 again or similar lube and spray along all the window molding, (horizontal and vertical, especially, vertical, (let it run down there good),and get some in through your inside door handle shooting in all directions. The thought here is that you have power but the window is sticking on the tracks and the rubber molding is dry and keeping the glass too tight to move up and down.
ALSO, it is good maintenance to spray lube down all your window tracks on a regular basis, especially in a salty winter, to keep the rubber and tracks slick.
3) Power antenna. others on line are familar with this, more than me.
4) Maintenance....(5) basic fluids. 1) Oil and filter 2) Trans fluid and filter 3) Power steer fluid (you can even just syphon out all in the resivoir and refill if not a complete flush) 4) Brake fluid
5) Coolant
Grease job all front end joints-check upper and lower rad hoses for decay and softness/hardness (should be flexible)-tighten up wiring under hood, electrical tape and wire loom (loose dry or cracked wires is never good)-fuel filter and fuel injection treatment-air filter-Throttle Cable Bushing, related to trans, tech tip will show you on this (replace if you still have nylon bushing)
I AM SURE i am missing other items. Suggest to get a Haynes Manual from auto parts store for about $18. which has a very good routine maintenance check list.
Hey, good luck and just keep posting as you go along. this is a great site!
P.S. NOTE: To do the tapping on the window motor with the screwdriver, the front vent window has to be open and you go in from there. BUT...it may be a little risky.. cracking glass of hitting the wrong thing. probably best off to remove the door panel if there is no power and then tap. But, if power, I would go first with the lube and with motor running it is okay to try and help the window along with your hands. Good Luck!

[Micetic]

As far as the window, when you push the switch does anything at all happen? Does it seem like there is a pull on the electrical system (lights dimming a little or anything?)

Just to clarify on the window, it is the rear door window, the same door with the stuck lock. That is why I asked if it could be related to the locks. The window makes no noise at all and there appears to be no power draw.

[87 town]

Just to clarify on the window, it is the rear door window, the same door with the stuck lock. That is why I asked if it could be related to the locks. The window makes no noise at all and there appears to be no power draw.

oooo, my mistake. thought it was the driver window not working, which is sort of common for that motor to go out faster since it is used more. Had to replace mine a couple years ago.
no power draw at all......hmmmm
first thing would be to get the door opened so you can pull off the door panel from the inside to check for all electrical connections, lube and tap motor to see if you can get it unstuck if this is the issue.. The screwdriver trick, tapping the motor wont work with the back door.
I would try and work the door open as I mentioned already with lube and pounding some and if you cannot get open, a body shop should be able to without any damage. I still will say that the window not working and door not opening is not related to each other. The power window motor has nothing to do with the power going to unlock the door or the latch not working right, unless there is a power short to the whole area.... BUT..were you ever able to get the door lock (pin) up? Without the pin being up, the door will never open. If the pin is up, then I would say latch stuck. If pin down and wont go up, then I would say current contact point in the door to pop it up is the problem or just stuck, usually from lack of use. Sometimes lube will free it, or even a bolt buster spray shot down around the pin. Again, a body shop could probably use a "jimmy" or tool, that slips in the door to pull the pin up if you cannot. Police usually carry these tools too. If door opens after pin is up, latch is not issue. Then remove panel, tap motor and check all connections would be the next thing to do and in any case grease tracks and lube all moving parts you can.
Hope I'm making sense here... Currently my door is stuck also. Rear pass side. I have been living with it. My problem is stuck latch keeps my door unable to open, whether pin is up or not. PLUS, both rear windows go down okay, but need help to get back up. One day I will get in there myself and check all the above out too.

[joedogg]

Okay heres what I would try on the door, in order. Now that this is understood that its the same door.

Have a friend push the power unlock and at the same time pull up on the pin with your hands HARD. That may well open the door, mine were partially seized and this worked for quite some time.

That won't work? Remove that back seat! Its not as hard as it sounds, heres what you do. This is a little hard to describe, so if I don't make sense, could someone clarify?

Put your knees just about 2 or so inches on either side of the middle seat's division on the bench. Push down with your knees using all your weight. Then shift your weight, by pushing against the seatback or the roof, down and forward to the front of the car. The seat should unlatch from its hooks.

After that its free, you have plenty of clearance to get the door panel off, and a great work area.

After you're in there you can unlock the door pretty easily by just pushing the lever the lock pin connects to up. Its real easy to get leverage once you're inside there and pushing on that part with your hand.

You'll probably need a new lock cylinder though, its most likely frozen up.

You might be dealing with a need to lube everything up. Is the window seal shot? If water keeps coming in to that particular door then it could easily rust up the lock actuator AND the window regulator causing the exact situation you describe.

Have a friggin' blast man!

[Obiejuankinobie]

Got my antena off ebay. It was so easy to install too.

[87 town]

Hi,
I am new to the Town Car owners family. I had driven a 1989 Mercury Marquis which is somewhat similiar, but this new old Town Car has so much more class. I have a few problems that I would appreciate opinions about.

1. Drivers side rear door lock is stuck locked and will not open by hand to with the power locks thus making the door inoperable. Is this just a actuator motor that is stuck in the lock position?

2. The drivers side rear window does not operate, is the motor probably shot or could this be related to question #1?

3. The power antenna is bent and does not full extend, any tips where to get a new one inexpensively?

4. What is the big service for this, I want to change everything that would be recommended, e.g. fluids, filters, etc. Anyone have a comprehensive list of what is recommended?

Thanks for your assistance! Here are some pictures of my new old baby.

http://d.im.craigslist.org/lr/V7/Osio6sjsGl2lRY4iALFxXGDITglv.jpg

http://d.im.craigslist.org/68/s9/vqqOEeb2N4itJqP1NE3VoXvQ68x7.jpg

I just noticed from your pic that the top seam of your glovebox is peeling back. VERY common problem. What finally worked for me, after I tried all kinds of glues was this.....write this down now....lol:)
get 3 or 4 rubber coated clamps. the style of clamp found on the end of battery jumper cables. They are like a dollar or two at any auto parts store. get the mid sized ones and be sure the tips are coated with the plastic/rubber.
Get some epoxy. NOT the pre mixed junk. Get the cylinder that has grey paste on one side and black on the other side. This will turn hard as steel once it sets. Work just a few inches at a time knifing in your mixed epoxy under the seam as you hold the edge perfectly in line. Use some masking tape on the underside so that any epoxy oozing out will not end up on your felt liner. Put a couple clamps over the edge holding your work in place. ONLY do, maybe 4" max at a time and let that 4" dry, ideally overnight, with the clamps on and glove box left open. Unscrew your glove box light bulb so you dont drain your battery. The next morning, remove the clamps
(dont leave on over a day so you dont cause any permanent dents into your vinyl front side. Continue on with a few more inches the next day using the identical process.
If you try to do the whole area at once it will have the tendency to bubble and may turn up crooked. That is why just a small perfect section at a time. You will be looking at this work for years to come, so take your time...
Before I figured this put i was trying crazy glue and paste and even hot glue. Nothing worked cause there is some pressure/tension going on there and it "wants" to relax and peel forward. The epoxy works and the clamps are critical to hold in place.
Anyhow, this worked me me. This was about 6 years ago and it hasnt begun to budge.

[Micetic]

Well, got the TV bushing in, one maintenence thing down, plenty to go.

[Scruffybeast]

If a power window motor runs, but the glass does not move, most likely the pins in the gear package are chewed up. The gear package consists of a large plastic gear with a triangular recess in it. Each corner of the triangle has a plastic pin about 1/2" in diameter in it. The three pins drive a triangular male piece that sits in the middle and has a gear on the top of it which drives the window regulator. The plastic pins eventually deteriorate from heat, and get ground up, allowing the motor to greewheel without doing any work. The gear package is available from Ford, but a much cheaper alternative is to just replace the pins. With the motor removed, and the cover over the gear package removed, you can lift the gear package out. It may require some prying to get it to slide up the stationary shaft and out. The plastic pins are available on Ebay from partzway, who lists his paypal email address as: KBARRETT@onemain.com. He will sell one kit of three pins, or as many kits as you need. The price is low ($3.95 per kit, plus shipping)
Once you have cleaned out all the ground up pin material and installed the new pins (this step takes patience) and packed things with grease, you are good to go for several years.