Need HELP!!! Won't start!!

[vdabis]

I have a 98' Lincoln Navigator 5.4L that doesn't want to crank over. It just makes one hard clicking noise then stops. I have replaced the starter,the solenoid on the firewall and replaced the original batterry twice from two good running trucks. I have not tried replacing the old battery for a new one. If I jump the terminals at the + terminal of the solenoid (at starter) to ground the engine cranks over briefly, alot more than with the key. Is there a bad relay/fusible link/bad ground or are the cables from the battery defective. How do I check these?? Anyone have any suggestions???

[Sysanalyst]

Have you checked out the engine grounding wire to ensure a good ground to the block? I have a good friend that got rid of his 2000 Navigator due to battery discharge/starting issues. There is a fusable link from the alternator cable to the underhood fuse pannel, check it to see if it looks "cooked". Ignition switch may also be toasted, it is a cheaply built part.

Edit: May want to look at www.fordcds.com (http://www.fordcds.com) and download your factory service manual. Burn the image to CD and then look up the troubleshooting section under cranking issues.

Edit2: Forgive me; Welcome to Lincolns Online! I'm not much of a Navigator specialist, but did have the sister ship the Expedition for a while and man, it was a parts eater.

[vdabis]

Thanks for the fast reply!! I will check those items you mention and I will let you know the results!! I had a 70's Camaro once that had similar problems and I remember it was a bad ground cable from the battery to the engine ( thats after I replaced the starter,coil, etc) Thanks again!!

[vdabis]

ok........I removed the neg and pos cables and they appear alright,
no burns. I checked out the wire from the alternater to the fuse panel and that was ok too. I have power before and after fuses,at the pos terminal at starter and at solenoid. I moved the ground wire from the battery to frame to the engine block but I think I'm going to put it back since there is a ground attached to the starter mounting bolt. But I'm still getting the same results! Short cranks then nothing. All the lights on the instrument panel shutdown when you try to start it.Could it be just a bad battery?? How many cranking amps are required to turnover a 5.4L? Alot more than a Mazda 4 banger, right? I'm taking my battery charger and see if I can jump it with that. Any other suggestions???

[v8_dave]

Yea, if your jumping the new starter and still nothing, I say your next route is to bring the batt to a parts store and have them do an endurance test on it. I bet the 5.4 needs a good 400 CCA to get her going but I couldn't tell ya. Good luck!

[Sysanalyst]

If you decide to purchase a new battery, I'd highly recommend the WalMart Everstart "yellow" battery. It offers 700 CCA and has a 3 year no quibbles warranty. I've always been able to just return one of these batteries with no questions asked. Our 1999 Expedition used the same battery as our Town Cars. Good luck.

[vdabis]

well, I haven't been quite truthful, the car belongs to a friend and last night he just told me that he removed a 5 amp fuse from the fuse box because he couldn't get the key out. So, when he removed the fuse he was able to remove the key as long as you lift up on the gear selector! he says when you put the fuse back in the air suspension activates and the steering wheel and ignition lock up and you can't remove the key!!. He is getting me his Chiltons and owners manual tonite. But, what do you think...this changes everything doesn't it? There is an open or grounded circuit because when I hook up the battery it sparks alittle! sorry for the mixed diagnoses!!

[Bluegrass]

Until you see which fuse is involved, it looks like the 5 amp to the GEM module off the start line.
Otherwise there is nohing special, about the start circuit and a good battery is needed.
The GEM module controls a lot of functions.
If it is faulty or there is a windshild leak onto it, it is suspect IMO.
A dealer has to match the vin of the vehichle and download the options from the 'as built' data base to a new module if it has to be replaced.
It is located on the back side of the inside fuse panel..

[vdabis]

new battery, still won't crank!! All's left to change is the neutral/drive switch on trans and computer. How can I check the groung cable without replacing it. Ohms test?? Physically and visually, it appears ok, not corroded! Any other suggestions???

[v8_dave]

Well, see if your getting voltage at the little wire that clips to the starter solenoid when someone is turning the key. Then if none, you can pinpoint it to the ignition switch/ an ignition problem.

[Bluegrass]

Lets start over again.
Unless you know the circuit, throwing parts at it instead of trouble shooting is just luck and money.
Here is what the starter circuit looks like.
There are two connecting circuits
One is a heavey lead from battery right to the starter.
The second circuit consists of TWO relays that pass control voltage in series.
The first relay is activated by the ignition start function.
The second relay is built into the starter and pulls up heavey contacts to pass current from the direct connection from the battery and moves the bendix drive out to the flywheel in one action.
The reason there are two relay controls is the progressively higher currents involved that he ignition switch could not be expected to handle for any length of time with out failure.
There is not much more to the circuit except where the charge circuit connects in to charge the battery for this start function and the mega fuses that could prevent a start action by removing power to the first start relay, if blown.
You have to isolate/translate these actions to a failure point.
I checked one book and a service disc and both are the same circuit configuration.
I don't know of any other way to be of help