Got a Navigator that needs TLC.

[deadbird]

As I touched on in my intro thread I have bought a 98 Navigator and it needs some mechanical TLC. It has 160K but the body and interior are in good-excellent condition. It was a trade in and I talked them down alot farther than they wanted because I took about 10-15 min telling them what was wrong with it including the Tranny, Loud noise from the front, and the aftermarket screens and DVD player in the head rests that I didn't want. Ok to the questions.

Tranny:
I knew this was a problem and that I wasen't getting out of it. It does not shift out of 1st untill you let off the gas. And the O/D is schetchy. We took the ORGINAL fluid out and put a new filter and fluid in and it did better but did not fix it. Anyone got a good tranny for sale?

"Other Sound":
Well I didn't realize that this had the "Air Ride" in it. But Oh well when it works right emphasize WHEN it is the best ride in the world. It is level and doesn't seem to be leaking. But what i am guessing is the pump in the right front (sitting in the drivers seat) turns on it is very loud. It is random and happens on most start ups. The worst it has been was on and off continously for about 5 minutes. We were going down the road straight and level and the truck did not seem to be leaning or moving in any way so I know a shock was not out or low. I dont completly understand the system yet and Haynes has not much to say either. But I did find in a worst case senario that the pump is $171, rears are $110 and front is $99 per corner. I am thinking Bad pump or bad realy? Is there a seperate pump for the fronts and rear? Where are the sensors. Where is some good tech info on the system?

Heater Core:
I think the heatercore may be leaking? I am getting hints of coolant in the passenger compartment. Is this a common problem? Of is it something else. Do you have to take the whole dash out to replace it?


Well there are my starter questions. Thanks in advance. Any info is much appreciated.

Thanks
Todd

[cason1]

Alright, the trans. Add a bottle of Lucas transmission fix and see what that does. Might get you by until you find another trans. I don't remember which trans it has but I believe it is the 4R70W which is shared with the F-150, expedition, crown vic, towncar, grand marquis, mustang, and I believe the explorer too. If I'm correct that is a nice list of cars to pull a trans from. I believe most RWD Fords from 96 or 97 until at least 2000 and the cars even up to current models used that trans in some form.

Air suspension,
Here's the rear air spring replacement for the Towncar, I'm certain the Navi is similar.
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00132.html
Not exact again but similar to the Mark VII and Towncar.
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00012.html
Here's a good read on the air suspension system on the Towncar, again very similar to the Navi.
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00061.html
The compressor can be loud. In my experience it is a sign of eventual doom for the compressor. There are rubber isolators that help keep it quiet and they dry rot and fall apart usually about the same time the compressor is about done anyway. Look in the links section on this site for suspension vendors. I have used Arnott Industries with good luck. I have their air springs and compressors on both my Towncar and Mark VII. Many have used American Air Suspensions and liked them too.

Heater core. I have done them on my 94 Towncar and a 79 Mustang and the procedure was almost identical so I'm going to say it is pretty close for the Navi too.
Here's for the 80's Towncar,
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00101.html

Best of luck getting her road ready and keep us updated.

[deadbird]

Cool. Thanks very much for the great info. Does anyone know if I can get touch up paint for the color that is green and changes to blue. I cant find a tough up for it. Someone said that I won't becasue it is a layered paint. The paint code is F8.

[cason1]

I would say your best option for that would be to go to a decent auto body place and have them custom mix you a spray can of the paint. It is my understanding that most good shops can and will do that. Not sure how much it would cost though or even if they can with the flip paint like that but it's worth a shot.

[DaKat]

Cool. Thanks very much for the great info. Does anyone know if I can get touch up paint for the color that is green and changes to blue. I cant find a tough up for it. Someone said that I won't becasue it is a layered paint. The paint code is F8.We have a good paint guy in the appearance forum; you might ask him.

[LithiumCobalt]

Chances are that if the paint color has been discontinuted Ford doesn't carry the touch-up for it anymore. You can give it a shot at the Ford dealer. It's only about $15 for a bottle of it if they can get it. I tried for my 96 Town Car and they couldn't get the color anymore. I eventually went to www.paintscratch.com (http://www.paintscratch.com) and got the factory color, primer, and some clear coat in three different bottles for about $20. The color does not match exactly, but it's close enough if you are only doing very small chips down below or where the spots are natually in the shade like around door edges and such.

[deadbird]

Thanks for the info! Going to get paint for the T-Bird Also. But is the whole kit needed? I need to confirm exactly what trany I have. I have found one for 300 shipped. How can I find this out. Is there a Vin Decoder? This one is out of a 99 Expedition 4.6 2WD. Mine is a 5.4 4WD.

[deadbird]

Here is a Picture of my Lincoln http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/2632000-2632999/2632039_86_full.jpgNav

[JeepOwner]

nice looking lincoln!

[cason1]

That is a very nice looking truck. I'm surprised nobody else has given the exact info on what transmissions fit yet. I will try to do a little searching on the web and see if I can find something for you.

[Fordace]

sorry, I've been sick for a while.....:(

Tranny is a 4R100 or E4OD, newer ones are 4R100's
they won't interchange from 4x4 to 2x4, different length output shafts. Have it rebuilt by a professional, there have been numerous updates since mid year production 97.

Heater cores have 2 problems, see below
If the heater core is leaking, review the location of the leakage and check the condition of the coolant.


Review the location of the leakage and check the condition of the coolant:
If leaks are found on the inlet (or outlet) tubes entering /exiting the heater core, it is most likely due to due to high flow rate - replace the heater core and install a restrictor in the heater hose closest to the engine block, reference Workshop Manual, Section 412.
If leaks are found in the body of the heater core itself, and does not appear to be the result of physical damage like contact or puncture, check the coolant for possible electrolysis.Testing For Electrolysis



Check for voltage in the cooling system by touching the negative contact of a voltmeter to the battery ground or a known good ground and suspend the positive lead in the coolant, making sure it is in contact with the coolant but not touching any metal part of the radiator or cooling system. Both AC and DC voltages must be checked. Vehicles normally have DC voltages; however, a faulty engine block heater or faulty diode in the alternator can produce AC voltages. It is understood that coolant is lost due to heater core failure but try to obtain a voltage reading on the old coolant in the engine block before addition to or replacement of. To keep more coolant from exiting the heater core clamp off heater core lines and measure coolant in the engine block. Try not to dilute the original coolant with new coolant during testing if possible.
Determine whether coolant condition is acceptable.
Remove both cables from the battery and ensure they do not contact each other or the vehicle.
Touch negative lead of voltmeter to engine ground and positive lead in the coolant.
NOTE:POSITIVE TEST PROBE IS IN THE COOLANT FOR TESTING.
Check the voltage in the cooling system. If less than or equal to 0.4 volts (V) OK, reconnect battery cables and proceed to Step 2.
If greater than 0.4 V, flush cooling system thoroughly.
Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V.
Reconnect battery cables.
Refill the system with appropriate Motorcraft® engine coolant.
Check for loose or missing grounds at static conditions.
Turn off all accessories. Turn ignition on but do not start engine.
Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
Voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V on all grounds OK.
Any one greater than 0.4 V, check and clean ground cable connections.
Check accessories without using the on off switch on the vehicle instrument panel, use a jumper wire to ground.
Plug in engine block heater, if equipped, and test.
Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V.
Unplug engine block heater, if equipped.
Check for loose, missing, or inadequate grounds.
Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
Crank engine but do not start.
Monitor voltage while cranking. less than or equal to 0.4 V OK
If greater than 0.4 V, ground or repair starter.
Start engine and run at about 2000 rpm.
Turn on all accessories including those customer only uses occasionally such as CB radio, cell phone, etc.
Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
Voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V OK
If greater than 0.4 V, turn off one item at a time until V drops to less than or equal to 0.4 V. Repair ground to the accessory just identified.
Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V
Turn the DVOM to AC volts.
Check for ANY AC voltage greater than 0.4.
If any AC voltage is present then try turning off each accessory one at a time including blower motor and any fan motors.
If AC voltage is still present then shut engine off and remove B+ from the alternator and tape it up then retest.
If voltage drop is gradual to less than or equal to 0.4 V, the ground straps may simply be overloaded by added accessories. Test by using heavy gauge jumper to ground. If indicated, install heavier gauge ground strap(s) and recheck.Order and install Noise Kit 4L1Z-5Z205-AA for the noisey compressor. Part # 4L1Z-5Z205-AA
It has updated isolators and an insulation kit

:)

[DaKat]

sorry, I've been sick for a while.....:(

Group :grouphug: hug!

[bojo68]

If I were you, I'd be looking to do any tranny replacing with a 5.4 factory tranny, the specs as I understand it are a little different on a 4.6, and while they will bolt up, theoretically the 5.4 should be more durable, as well as better suited. I thought some of the Navi's came with 4r70's, but don't have much evidence of it.

[Fordace]

Group :grouphug: hug!

Thanks Kat, this Lyme is killing me....can't get rid of it....almost 2 years now.....

[deadbird]

If I were you, I'd be looking to do any tranny replacing with a 5.4 factory tranny, the specs as I understand it are a little different on a 4.6, and while they will bolt up, theoretically the 5.4 should be more durable, as well as better suited. I thought some of the Navi's came with 4r70's, but don't have much evidence of it.

My navi is a 5.4.

[bojo68]

My navi is a 5.4.

That's my point, you were considering using a tranny out of a 4.6...

[deadbird]

Oh I miss understood.

[hilmar]

Thanks Kat, this Lyme is killing me....can't get rid of it....almost 2 years now.....

lyme is a difficult thing to get rid of , i had the #118th documented case, with the cdc, living in NJ.

my case was treated very aggressive with rocephen and calferin iv antibiotics for a total of 17 weeks. , symtoms lasted 3 years plus.

seizures, tired beyond explanation....

there are many docs now that are specialists in the field... most docs dont see many cases at all..

get well !
now back to the navigator post !

[deadbird]

Soo anyone have a extra tranny? Since it is not an immediate threat and it is going to be rebuilt I am going to go untill i find a good used tranny or untill it goes caput. I just drove a total of 8 hours in the mountains and it did fine other than shifting into 2nd. Also same story on the compressor. Other thing is tha tI tried to put a new belt on and it is the correct one but is too short. The tension arm is not releasing enough. Proly an inch short? Any ideas? I just replaces both of the Idler pullies and they were the same diameter. I have yet to do the tensioner?? I also need a spare tire and rim. Anyone have an spare spare?

[Philip]

you know I'm bored with my own forum if I'm reading in things I don't own, lol, but the Navigator air suspension got my interest. Is it a full front and rear system like the Mark or rear only?

BTW, the transmission should be the same as a F150 or Expedition/Excursion with the 5.4, right?

[bojo68]

I'm pretty sure navi's have used both 70 and 100's. It's EASY to tell which one you have, the 4r100 is HUGE, whereas the 4r70 is average.

[deadbird]

I do not know trannys well. What is huge and what is average?

[bojo68]

well the right way to do it is by bolt count on the pan, but I don't know what it is on either. If nobody here volunteers, a call to your local parts store or tranny shop would probably flush it out.

[deadbird]

I had it flushed once. It has a deep pan I belive. I will try to count the bolts.

[jcherian39]

Can anyone tell me where to get more information and where i can order 4L1Z-5Z205-AA. Before i buy it, i would like to get more information on the kits

Joe

sorry, I've been sick for a while.....:(

Tranny is a 4R100 or E4OD, newer ones are 4R100's
they won't interchange from 4x4 to 2x4, different length output shafts. Have it rebuilt by a professional, there have been numerous updates since mid year production 97.

Heater cores have 2 problems, see below
If the heater core is leaking, review the location of the leakage and check the condition of the coolant.


Review the location of the leakage and check the condition of the coolant:
If leaks are found on the inlet (or outlet) tubes entering /exiting the heater core, it is most likely due to due to high flow rate - replace the heater core and install a restrictor in the heater hose closest to the engine block, reference Workshop Manual, Section 412.
If leaks are found in the body of the heater core itself, and does not appear to be the result of physical damage like contact or puncture, check the coolant for possible electrolysis.Testing For Electrolysis



Check for voltage in the cooling system by touching the negative contact of a voltmeter to the battery ground or a known good ground and suspend the positive lead in the coolant, making sure it is in contact with the coolant but not touching any metal part of the radiator or cooling system. Both AC and DC voltages must be checked. Vehicles normally have DC voltages; however, a faulty engine block heater or faulty diode in the alternator can produce AC voltages. It is understood that coolant is lost due to heater core failure but try to obtain a voltage reading on the old coolant in the engine block before addition to or replacement of. To keep more coolant from exiting the heater core clamp off heater core lines and measure coolant in the engine block. Try not to dilute the original coolant with new coolant during testing if possible.
Determine whether coolant condition is acceptable.
Remove both cables from the battery and ensure they do not contact each other or the vehicle.
Touch negative lead of voltmeter to engine ground and positive lead in the coolant.
NOTE:POSITIVE TEST PROBE IS IN THE COOLANT FOR TESTING.
Check the voltage in the cooling system. If less than or equal to 0.4 volts (V) OK, reconnect battery cables and proceed to Step 2.
If greater than 0.4 V, flush cooling system thoroughly.
Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V.
Reconnect battery cables.
Refill the system with appropriate Motorcraft® engine coolant.
Check for loose or missing grounds at static conditions.
Turn off all accessories. Turn ignition on but do not start engine.
Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
Voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V on all grounds OK.
Any one greater than 0.4 V, check and clean ground cable connections.
Check accessories without using the on off switch on the vehicle instrument panel, use a jumper wire to ground.
Plug in engine block heater, if equipped, and test.
Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V.
Unplug engine block heater, if equipped.
Check for loose, missing, or inadequate grounds.
Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
Crank engine but do not start.
Monitor voltage while cranking. less than or equal to 0.4 V OK
If greater than 0.4 V, ground or repair starter.
Start engine and run at about 2000 rpm.
Turn on all accessories including those customer only uses occasionally such as CB radio, cell phone, etc.
Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
Voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V OK
If greater than 0.4 V, turn off one item at a time until V drops to less than or equal to 0.4 V. Repair ground to the accessory just identified.
Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V
Turn the DVOM to AC volts.
Check for ANY AC voltage greater than 0.4.
If any AC voltage is present then try turning off each accessory one at a time including blower motor and any fan motors.
If AC voltage is still present then shut engine off and remove B+ from the alternator and tape it up then retest.
If voltage drop is gradual to less than or equal to 0.4 V, the ground straps may simply be overloaded by added accessories. Test by using heavy gauge jumper to ground. If indicated, install heavier gauge ground strap(s) and recheck.Order and install Noise Kit 4L1Z-5Z205-AA for the noisey compressor. Part # 4L1Z-5Z205-AA
It has updated isolators and an insulation kit

:)