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Goddard007
April 22nd, 2008, 10:29 AM
I'm having a misfire on 3 and don't know why. I've changed the plugs the connectors and checked the coils those are all good. I checked the injectors by disconnecting each and seeing if it had a affect on the misfire it actually made it worse as it should. I've heard people talk about spark knock and decarbing not sure if this is the step I should take, but any help would be nice.

Side note another problem I had was with the MAF sensor or probably not with the sensor. I connect the sensor I hear a sort of pumping sound I disconnect the sensor I hear it no more. What could that be as well?

Any help is much appreciated been workin on this for awhile and its driving me crazy!

luxuryrules
April 22nd, 2008, 01:04 PM
Is your cylinder 3 misfire the only trouble code that comes up?

A leaky injector O-ring is another common cause of a misfire, and that method of testing won't do much to locate it. Try replacing it.

bojo68
April 22nd, 2008, 04:05 PM
Is the compression consistent across the whole engine?
Don't know about the gen2 obd2 stuff, but the obd1 had a self test that was designed to pick up low compression. It ran the engine about 1800 rpm and sequentially dropped cyls, then listed rpm drop. Not conclusive, but another easy hint. OBD2 may have a similar function.

Goddard007
April 23rd, 2008, 12:57 AM
Appreciate the help....I'm kind of lost with all this trying to learn how to do my own repairs and have no one but these forums. So if I have a misfire in 3 and I did all those first things on the check list what would you do next if you had a sort of click in 3 when you rev the engine up what would that tell you? I tested the compression on 3 and it was about 100 is that bad?

I sprayed some carb cleaner in the intake trying to see if that had any positive affect and it did run a bit better thats why I was asking about the seafoam...think I should do it?

luxuryrules
April 24th, 2008, 08:14 AM
You should do it... let the motor suck it in through the PCV hose though. Search the forums for Seafoam for more detailed instructions.

That will not, however, take care of your misfire.

I don't know the compression spec off the top of my head, but the important question is: is it the same across the whole engine? Test all eight cylinders, not just #3. Make sure that your spark plugs are torqued to 6 lbs, and double check that cylinder #3 is not loose or cross threaded.

When you say you replaced the connectors, you're talking about the boots that go between the spark plugs and coils, correct? And what was your method for testing the coils?

Goddard007
April 25th, 2008, 12:15 AM
I never tested the coils and yeah I do mean those...I simply moved the coil from one cylinder to another and tried to see if the misfire moved.

Just a side question how much suction am I supposed to have coming say to the PCV valve or the EGR valve?

Goddard007
April 26th, 2008, 10:04 PM
It's lookin like a compression problem for some reason my comprssion hose doesn't want to screw into the threads but last time I tested it was at 90 which is low from what I hear...anyone know what its suppose to be in order to fire properly and a good manual that goes over more specifics on fixing the problem I've never done this before.

bojo68
April 28th, 2008, 12:34 AM
It's lookin like a compression problem for some reason my comprssion hose doesn't want to screw into the threads but last time I tested it was at 90 which is low from what I hear...anyone know what its suppose to be in order to fire properly and a good manual that goes over more specifics on fixing the problem I've never done this before.

I'd suggest maybe it's time to think about whether or not your in over your head. Let's just say these are neither simple or cheap, and if you've got low compression, there's no simple or cheap way out. Not saying don't, or that you can't, just that it's not gonna be easy or cheap.

Actually this question reminds me of one I asked once(in 1969) Asked my boss at an auto service place if he thought I knew enough to change an engine. His reply "When your good enough you won't have to ask" He was right too.

Goddard007
April 28th, 2008, 11:46 AM
Well with limited options and labor costing probably in the thousands for this job..I think I can learn. Does the whole engine have to come out for this job? What do you think it would cost in say parts / labor separately to have this done?

bojo68
April 28th, 2008, 12:02 PM
Well with limited options and labor costing probably in the thousands for this job..I think I can learn. Does the whole engine have to come out for this job? What do you think it would cost in say parts / labor separately to have this done?

Well, the first thing that has to be done is find out WHAT exactly is wrong. That means your going to have to get somebody with enough experience to know, and isn't afraid of these.
In your area the best mechanic I know for that is me.

Goddard007
April 29th, 2008, 12:45 AM
Ahh no kiddin.. :D .I'm in salem now, but if you wanted to look at the sucker I wouldn't have a problem drivin up there.

luxuryrules
April 29th, 2008, 10:16 AM
Do a search for Service CD, and that is the absolute best way to learn how to work on these things. I'm old fashioned, I bought a Ford shop manual, but the CDs are more user-friendly.

A compression test across all the cylinders is what is necessary, the idea is that the lowest compression cylinder must be more than 75% of the highest compression cylinder (according to my Blue Bible). So if ya got 90 psi on cylinder number Three and the others are all hovering around 140ish, then yeah you probably found your problem.

But, 90 is too low, and it is also not good if your hose won't screw in. These are aluminum heads and there is a good chance something got cross-threaded.

I have a feeling before this is through you'll be tearing the heads off. Bojo, here's your chance to shine.

And Goddard, here is your chance to swap cams, have the heads & upper intake manifold machined, install new valves, springs, etc, as well as a set of headers while you're in there.

I'm jealous :)

Goddard007
May 2nd, 2008, 10:03 PM
Let me know if you can look at her.

bojo68
May 2nd, 2008, 10:40 PM
I got yer message, and I'm planin on callin. Got this expletive deleted Cadillac in my hair right now, whose owner insisted on putting a cheap water pump in 2 years ago after I told him the possible consequences.
Guess what, he didn't get a cheap one this time....:)

Goddard007
May 3rd, 2008, 12:00 AM
haha sounds like the opposite of me. I want to buy all the expensive shit and wait 3 years to actually complete everything...which sucks since this is a daily driver...almost was gonna say screw it, but I love the mark VIII.. I was going to order the radiator off rock auto but they have plastic crap one for like 100 bucks...I think I want a decent all aluminum or some sort of metal at least this time.. any ideas?

bojo68
May 3rd, 2008, 06:43 AM
haha sounds like the opposite of me. I want to buy all the expensive shit and wait 3 years to actually complete everything...which sucks since this is a daily driver...almost was gonna say screw it, but I love the mark VIII.. I was going to order the radiator off rock auto but they have plastic crap one for like 100 bucks...I think I want a decent all aluminum or some sort of metal at least this time.. any ideas?

Actually, I haven't had that much trouble with the plastic tanked stuff. Most of the problems with them I see are broken brackets, overflow tubes, clips, etc. Most of which is easily repaired. Once in awhile I'll see a seal leak, but nothing outrageous. Mind you I see alot of plastic radiatored cars too...:) I also have a radiator guy that can fix damn near anything. He'll make you a radiator for a 32 Ford if ya want one, won't be honeycomb though...:) He starts with flat brass plate, and makes rads for show cars...:)

bojo68
May 3rd, 2008, 04:26 PM
Well he came by today, just left. Called at 9:40, he said he'd be here within the hour. Called at 11:40, said he was lost, got here at 12:40.It's 2:16 now. So overall it's nearly 5 hours. He'd replaced a coil and done a compression ck. According to him compression was good, and it seemed running fine to me, so I had no reason to believe otherwise. Ran resistance tests on all coils and inspected boots, all checked good. He complained of a knocking noise upon startup, which was valve followers. Coolant fill plug on crossover had never been off since he had it, was a gallon low, with a leaking radiator.(his car has the owners manual with it, and that does explain how to fill the cooling system) He's had it 5 months. He complained of accessory drive belt squeaking, and then when I'm in car with it running, proceeds to squirt wd-40 on the belt...:)
We went to auto parts joint and got him an additive that will cure cam follower noise, and with temperature stabilized I'd expect them to stay that way. No engine codes other than the old bad coil missfire one.
Charged him 20$, damn cheap for 5 hours the way I see it. Had I known it would take 5 hours out of my saturday, and only be worth that, I'd have passed.

luxuryrules
May 3rd, 2008, 05:36 PM
Hey, you did it for a friend and fellow Lincoln enthusiast. I have done the same. Bojo, what do you think was the cause for that misfire and did it get fixed? More importantly, if it was running fine, did you clear the code to see if it comes back?

Goddard, change your drive belt before it breaks and ensure you are using six quarts of QUALITY 5w30 motor oil with a QUALITY filter. A lot of places sell Motorcraft filters for $4 or so (FL820S is what you want), and if you can get your hands on Motorcraft oil, it is a fantastic oil for the price.

bojo68
May 3rd, 2008, 07:19 PM
Hey, you did it for a friend and fellow Lincoln enthusiast. I have done the same. Bojo, what do you think was the cause for that misfire and did it get fixed? More importantly, if it was running fine, did you clear the code to see if it comes back?

Goddard, change your drive belt before it breaks and ensure you are using six quarts of QUALITY 5w30 motor oil with a QUALITY filter. A lot of places sell Motorcraft filters for $4 or so (FL820S is what you want), and if you can get your hands on Motorcraft oil, it is a fantastic oil for the price.

He had by the time he got here, although he hadn't re-installed the coil covers, and some were working loose. After checking coils and boots I reinstalled coil covers, and never heard a miss. I checked the old coil he had replaced, and it was definitely junk.

luxuryrules
May 3rd, 2008, 08:08 PM
Cool! So the issue has been resolved and the problem was a bad coil.