Ball Joints / Upper & Lower

[Mikey_23_ny1]

Just wanted to post some pics. Changing out some really bad looking ball joints and while im at it, tie rod ends, stabalizers, and replacing all necessary bushings. Just brought parts in to the machine shop to have those lowers pressed in. Gonna try and get it back together tomarrow after work or by sat at the latest. Got napa parts. Hope that was a good choice.
Anyone know the torque values for the ball joints and the tie rods?

[partsman662002]

Did you chop that hole to access the control arm nut?

[Fordace]

Tie Rod End to Spindle 39 - 53 ft lbs
Ball joints - 83 - 113 ft lbs

[Mikey_23_ny1]

Did you chop that hole to access the control arm nut?

Yeah I actually did. I had a problem getting at it. I have a piece of sheetmetal that I will zip over it when I'm done. I figured it shouldn't be a problem plus the fender skirt will cover the patch as well. I was trying to get the swivel on it from that hole but the nut was all coroded and messed up. I got it off with. Some vice grips

[luxuryrules]

Clever, actually. I'm impressed.

[partsman662002]

I don't know why people dread doing that side so badly. I figured out an easy way to do it.

[Mikey_23_ny1]

Thanks for everyones input (ford race man, thanks for those torque values)
Got her back together this evening after work. Tomarrow morning i will lube the front end, throw the tires on and head out for an alignment. I left the inner tie rods because I felt they were ok. all of the old bushing were barely recognizable and those metal sleeves (dont know what they are called) under the old bushings had to be heated with a torch to remove (not that big a deal). Replaced the hub assemblies as well. Everything looks pretty good under there and looking foward to smooth sailing ;)

[Mikey_23_ny1]

There is just one thing that im not sure about... Not too sure what these parts are called so i took a couple of pictures. There is one part on each side underneath that is adjustable (in and out) its a bolt with a oval washer on each side with maybe degree marks on it. I dont really recall the exact position of this but am assuming that it should be lined up evenly so that oval washer sits in the other oval thing. also does this get adjusted during alignment? Should I leave it ?

[Fordace]

yeah, if you have to remove those, take a flat chisel and index them your self. At least until you go to get the alignment. It's absoultely necessary now

[Fordace]

I don't know why people dread doing that side so badly. I figured out an easy way to do it.

do share.......

[Mikey_23_ny1]

yeah, if you have to remove those, take a flat chisel and index them your self. At least until you go to get the alignment. It's absoultely necessary now

Index them? Do you mean like space it out evenly all around? Thanks ;) Also, I wont have to worry about that after alignment? That will be adjusted correctly?

[Mikey_23_ny1]

I don't know why people dread doing that side so badly. I figured out an easy way to do it.



do share.......


I removed the battery and then the power distribution box for the bolt at the other side and it was cake. the other bolt i just cut the sheet metal out with a pair of siding shears. When I first looked at it it looked like it was gonna be trouble but it was actually quite easy. :)

[Fordace]

Index them? Do you mean like space it out evenly all around? Thanks ;)

No, take a chisel (only if you haven't removed them yet)
and strike a mark on the oblong washer and the metal edge it is closest to. This way when you go back together, you just have to line up your chisel marks.

[Mikey_23_ny1]

No, take a chisel (only if you haven't removed them yet)
and strike a mark on the oblong washer and the metal edge it is closest to. This way when you go back together, you just have to line up your chisel marks.

Ahhhh, Thats what I shoulda done. I didnt even realise it. Too late now:eek:

[Fordace]

get that thing aligned immediately.....good job....:)

[Mikey_23_ny1]

get that thing aligned immediately.....good job....:)

Thankyou :D

[partsman662002]

do share.......

Sorry, I should have shared in the first place. What I do is move the wires by the master cylinder, get a long 1/2" breaker bar with an 18mm socket and reach down to hold the nut side, then go underneath and break off the flag and unscrew that side with a 15mm (IIRC) 6 point socket.

[partsman662002]

There is just one thing that im not sure about... Not too sure what these parts are called so i took a couple of pictures. There is one part on each side underneath that is adjustable (in and out) its a bolt with a oval washer on each side with maybe degree marks on it. I dont really recall the exact position of this but am assuming that it should be lined up evenly so that oval washer sits in the other oval thing. also does this get adjusted during alignment? Should I leave it ?

Ahhhh, Thats what I shoulda done. I didnt even realise it. Too late now:eek:

Wow, you really did alot of work....
Yeah, it's always a good idea to mark those, either with some chalk, a paint pen, or a chisel like fordace said.

[Mikey_23_ny1]

Yeah thats what ill do next time. I didnt realise that it adjusts in and out before i started spinning that bolt off. Yeah it was a good amount of work. Changed out the rear shocks too. I just wanted to make sure i got it all done by this weekend because its going out for paint work on monday. Just had the alarm/remote start and tints done on tuesday. Moving right along. It should be a nice ride when im all set and done.

[Mikey_23_ny1]

Got her all finished up. Took it in today to have it aligned and all went well. The car rides perfectly straight and feels like new. :)