View Full Version : 93 engine swap
smitstix
April 29th, 2008, 11:38 AM
Just wondering if theres any tips out there as we'er mid flow on an engine swap and its a pain, They seem to think it might have to drop out the bottom?
Fordace
April 29th, 2008, 11:49 AM
Piece of Cake Bro.......(YEAH RIGHT)
Removal
Remove the battery.
Drain the cooling system.
Remove the hood.
Recover the A/C refrigerant.
Remove both wiper arms.
Remove the hood pad.
Remove the cowl vent screens.
Release the cowl vent screen retainers.
Raise the cowl vent screen and disconnect the washer hose.
Remove the cowl vent screens.
Disconnect the fuel line bracket from the wiper cowl.
Remove the right lower cowl vent panel.
Disconnect the wiper motor connector and position the harness aside.
Remove the clip and disconnect the wiper linkage.
Remove the wiper assembly.
Disconnect the vacuum line and the secondary air injection hose.
Raise the vehicle on the hoist.
Drain the engine oil.
Remove the exhaust bracket from in front of the fuel tank.
Remove the exhaust outlet pipe frame nuts.
Disconnect the LH rear and both RH heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) connectors.
Remove the dual converter Y-pipe to exhaust manifold nuts.
Disconnect the exhaust insulators and remove the exhaust system.
Disconnect the starter wiring.
Remove the cover.
Disconnect the wires.
Remove the starter motor.
Remove the secondary air injection valve assembly from the bracket.
Remove the flywheel inspection cover.
Remove the two inspection cover bolts.
Remove the separator plate bolt.
Remove the inspection cover.
NOTE: Use hand tools only.
NOTE: Turn the crankshaft in a clockwise direction only.
Remove and discard the torque converter nuts.
Remove the transmission fluid level indicator tube bolt and position the tube aside.
Remove the five lower transmission to engine bolts.
Disconnect the transmission cooler lines.
Disconnect the bracket from the RH lower engine mount.
Disconnect the ground cable from the right front fender apron.
Disconnect the power steering return hoses.
Disconnect the power steering reservoir supply hose from the power steering pump.
Remove the power steering line support bracket.
Remove the power steering pressure hose and discard the seal.
Disconnect the power steering pressure hose from the power steering pump.
Remove the pressure hose bracket-to-pump bolt and position the hose out of the way.
Disconnect and rotate the actuator.
Disconnect the lower radiator hose.
Remove the engine mount bolts.
Remove and discard the steering shaft and gear coupling bolts.
Install the RH lifting bracket.
Lower the vehicle.
Remove the generator cover.
Remove the radiator sight shield.
Remove the air cleaner outlet tube.
Disconnect the crankcase ventilation tube from the RH valve cover.
Disconnect the IAT connector.
Remove the air cleaner outlet tube and the crankcase ventilation tube as an assembly.
Disconnect the accelerator and speed control cables from the throttle body. Remove the accelerator bracket and position the cables and bracket aside.
Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose.
Remove the differential pressure feedback EGR (DPFE) transducer.
Disconnect the LH front heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) connector.
Remove the LH front strut cover.
Disconnect the vacuum line from the secondary air injection solenoid.
Relieve fuel system pressure.
Using Disconnect Tools D87L-9280-A and D87L-9280-B disconnect the fuel lines.
Remove the power steering reservoir.
Disconnect the 42-pin connector.
Disconnect the 16-pin connector and position the harness aside.
Disconnect the coolant return hose from the coolant reservoir.
Disconnect the ground wire and four-pin connector.
Disconnect the battery junction box (BJB) from the bracket.
Disconnect the positive battery cable and fusible link from the BJB. Position the BJB aside.
Disconnect the locators and position the harness aside.
Disconnect the locators and position the harness aside.
Remove the BJB bracket.
Remove the nut and position the oil level indicator tube aside.
Install the LH lifting bracket D93P-6001-A2.
Remove the master cylinder retaining nuts and position the wire harness and master cylinder out of the way.
Remove the upper radiator hose.
Disconnect and position aside the cooling fan harness.
Remove the cooling fan assembly.
Remove the bolts.
Remove cooling fan assembly.
Disconnect the transmission cooler lines.
Using Spring Lock Coupling Disconnect Tool T81P-19623-G2, disconnect the A/C manifold from the condenser.
Using Spring Lock Coupling Disconnect Tool T81P-19623-G2, disconnect the A/C manifold from the compressor.
Disconnect the A/C pressure cut-out switch.
Remove the A/C line.
Using Spring Lock Coupling Disconnect Tool T85L-19623-A, disconnect the A/C suction line from the compressor.
Disconnect the condenser to evaporator core A/C line from the condenser.
Remove the radiator.
Remove the bolts.
Remove the radiator retaining brackets.
Lift and remove the radiator.
Disconnect the coolant reservoir supply hose.
Remove the lower radiator hose.
Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater tubes and position them out of the way.
Disconnect the evaporative emission hose.
Disconnect the chassis vacuum connector.
Remove the upper condenser core mounting brackets and remove the condenser core.
Remove the bolts.
Remove the A/C condenser core mounting brackets.
Remove the A/C condenser core.
Remove the LH instrument panel insulator screws.
Disconnect the lamp and remove the instrument panel insulator.
Remove the instrument panel steering column cover screws and position the instrument panel steering column cover aside.
Remove the instrument panel reinforcement.
Remove the A/C duct.
Disconnect the steering column lower yoke.
Remove and discard the pinch bolt.
Slide the intermediate shaft into the lower steering shaft.
While supporting the steering column, remove the steering column nuts.
Disconnect the connectors.
Remove the steering column.
Remove the coupling shaft.
Raise the vehicle on the hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Remove the steering coupling from the steering gear.
Using Oxygen Sensor Wrench T94P-9472-A remove the LH upper heated oxygen sensor (HO2S).
Remove the studs from the LH exhaust manifold.
Loosen the transmission mount nuts.
Lower the vehicle.
Support the transmission with a floor jack.
Remove the upper two transmission-to-engine bolts.
Using a suitable lifting device and Spreader Bar D93P-6001-A3, remove the engine.
smitstix
April 29th, 2008, 03:51 PM
Glad i'm not doing it :) Printed of though thanks ;)
MichiganTeddyBear
April 29th, 2008, 06:21 PM
is that ALL it takes???
damn, not for the faint of heart, thats for sure!
hrmwrm
April 29th, 2008, 08:00 PM
so that's what, a couple of hours? looks like a lot written out. hahahaha. think i dropped the whole drivetrain in 2 conti's, swapped one carriage for the other and re-installed in less time than it probably takes for just removal of an mkviii engine.
Glorywagon
May 3rd, 2008, 10:32 PM
Don't take that long if you use a cutting torch.About one hour if you don't set the car on fire. :eek:
bojo68
May 4th, 2008, 01:17 AM
Don't take that long if you use a cutting torch.About one hour if you don't set the car on fire. :eek:
How long does it take when you DO set the car on fire??:)
Is this the voice of experience??:)
Dereck
May 4th, 2008, 02:09 AM
Piece of Cake Bro.......(YEAH RIGHT)
Removal
Remove the battery.
Drain the cooling system.
Remove the hood..........
...........Raise the vehicle on the hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Remove the steering coupling from the steering gear.
Using Oxygen Sensor Wrench T94P-9472-A remove the LH upper heated oxygen sensor (HO2S).
Remove the studs from the LH exhaust manifold.
Loosen the transmission mount nuts.
Lower the vehicle.
Support the transmission with a floor jack.
Remove the upper two transmission-to-engine bolts.
Using a suitable lifting device and Spreader Bar D93P-6001-A3, remove the engine.
Hi Fordace
Looks like you could bang that job out before breakfast :D
Regards
Dereck
Glorywagon
May 4th, 2008, 08:55 AM
How long does it take when you DO set the car on fire??:)
Is this the voice of experience??:)
True story
I had my wife do all the interior (butt and Tuck ) all white seats headliner all on a 1954 ford 2 door.
Was down at my friends salvage yard cutting a hole for the new four speed .And YES I cought the new front seat on FIRE:eek: any way cut the bolts off the seat and saved the rest of the car.:o
Went home with 2 junk bucket seats for her to redo.:boohoo:To make it short she fixed them for me. But not without a few words.
:box:I lost
bojo68
May 4th, 2008, 09:41 AM
True story
I had my wife do all the interior (butt and Tuck ) all white seats headliner all on a 1954 ford 2 door.
Was down at my friends salvage yard cutting a hole for the new four speed .And YES I cought the new front seat on FIRE:eek: any way cut the bolts off the seat and saved the rest of the car.:o
Went home with 2 junk bucket seats for her to redo.:boohoo:To make it short she fixed them for me. But not without a few words.
:box:I lost
ROFL! :)
54 fords must have had a hex on them. My first tranny rebuild was on one. I was 14. We finally get it done and go for a ride. Something about the heater was messed up, and about 3 blocks into the ride the exhaust manifolds start heating up, and of course my greasy meatball hands had been all over them. SMOKE rolling in through the dash, liked to gas us. I suppose I should mention that my folks had a big argument about whether or not they were going to get married before I was born, and decided to. So they went to a state where fast marriages happen, and of course the 54 ford blew up on the way home. Being the experts they were they bought a 53 for parts, of course the 53 was a flat head, and the 54 was over head valve. I swear it was enough to make me go to Studebaker....:)
Glorywagon
May 4th, 2008, 11:24 AM
ROFL! :)
54 fords must have had a hex on them. My first tranny rebuild was on one. I was 14. We finally get it done and go for a ride. Something about the heater was messed up, and about 3 blocks into the ride the exhaust manifolds start heating up, and of course my greasy meatball hands had been all over them. SMOKE rolling in through the dash, liked to gas us. I suppose I should mention that my folks had a big argument about whether or not they were going to get married before I was born, and decided to. So they went to a state where fast marriages happen, and of course the 54 ford blew up on the way home. Being the experts they were they bought a 53 for parts, of course the 53 was a flat head, and the 54 was over head valve. I swear it was enough to make me go to Studebaker....:)
Sounds like your talking about me and my wife. Her 15 Me 17 run off to Miami Ok. with our son in the oven and got married.Thats been 47 good and happy years ago.;)
Fordace
May 6th, 2008, 12:07 PM
Hi Fordace
Looks like you could bang that job out before breakfast :D
Regards
Dereck
yeah sure,,,,,NOT.........( maybe 20 years ago.....lol)
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