rattles and thumps

[bojo68]

I've been in or driven 3 markvii's now, of those 3, 2 of them did this. Mine has kind of a rattle that sounds like the washers on sway bar links after the rubber went away, but these don't have those. It's definitely connected to wheel travel. I saw one at a wrecking yard, and noticed that the shocks in the rear looked like the bushings were going away, but not bad enough to rattle.
The other thing is a thump from the back end. This seems wheel travel related too.
I figure I could slither around under it and find these eventually, but I'm hoping somebody here knows them enough to save me looking.
All the cars I've been in are 145k or less, with the 94@107k and 95@135k being the worst.

[jamies98lsc]

if you are getting a thump in the rear i'll put money on the upper shock mounts. 9 times out of 10 they are ripped and shot. nothing 25 bucks and a torch cant fix. pick up some monroe or gabriel shocks for a 95 t-bird at autozone or advance auto, take the rubber bushings out of your stock mounts and put the new rubber mounts into the stock brackets and slap your new shocks on. no more thumps!!!

[luxuryrules]

I'll second the rear upper shock mounts. Cheap and easy fix.

If it's rattling in the front, you're very likely looking at bad upper control arms.

[jccpd]

Contact Eric at neasham_e@hotmail.com
He makes a metal upper shock replacement for about $30 or so for our Mark VIIIs. He is also very honest and stands by his product.

[rrudd2]

Contact Eric at neasham_e@hotmail.com
He makes a metal upper shock replacement for about $30 or so for our Mark VIIIs. He is also very honest and stands by his product.

I second this option. I've got Eric's mounts on all three of my Mark VIII's. Use his mounts and the bushings that come with whatever shocks you buy.

[Glorywagon]

Don't thank I ever owned a Ford product that didn't
rattles and thumps .;)

[bojo68]

Don't thank I ever owned a Ford product that didn't
rattles and thumps .;)

Guess I'm a little chicken, but if I'm gonna drive a 13 yr old car with 135k on it on the freeway, I wanna AT LEAST KNOW WHAT ANY SLOP IN THE SUSPENSION IS, if not cure it. I've seen manufacturers make things such that when suspension parts wear they can literally fall out of the car. Trust??? Not me...:)

[Philip]

Here are the usual possibilities:
rear stabilizer bar end links and their bushings

shocks, of course

front upper and lower control arms, stabilizers and their bushings

Occasionally you will hear a light, almost imperceptible "thunk" when coming to a stop, that is the driveline perhaps related to our weird driveshafts. It did it when new and will always do it. But as for suspension noises, replacing the above items should yield you that "wraped in rubber" feeling all over again.

[jamies98lsc]

i agree with philip, there is nothing like driving your mark for years and being used to it slowly wearing out, then treating the entire suspension to a make over and going for that first ride on brand new parts, you cannot even begin to imagine the difference in the car, they ride like an absolute dream when you just break down and replace it all in one shot, sure it may cost a few bucks, but you knew that the day you were looking to buy it, there is nothing cheap about owning a mark VIII, or a few lol!

[Philip]

The nice thing about that "suspension makeover" is that you're not going to be bothered by any of it again for the next 5 or 6 years, if ever again :)

[Loud94TC]

My car makes a loud thump over bigger bumps and rattles over smaller ones, tracked down to the driver's rear side. Thinkt his could be my issues? When Jamie mentioned "nothing $25 and a torch won't fix", what is the torch for?

[luxuryrules]

My car makes a loud thump over bigger bumps and rattles over smaller ones, tracked down to the driver's rear side. Thinkt his could be my issues? When Jamie mentioned "nothing $25 and a torch won't fix", what is the torch for?

Yep... the rear shock mount is shot. You can replace the rear mounts and use a set of Tbird shocks in there. Or... you can remove the old mounts, torch the old bushings out of there, and use the bushings that came with the shocks. Guess which one is cheaper :)

Do both sides while you're at it. I personally guarantee you that the other side is not far behind.

[bojo68]

I haven't looked in the trunk specifically, but it sound like you guys are talking about something the upper shock bolts into something that is other than just sheet metal as usual. From the outside it just looks like there's only the rubbers on the top of the shock. I'm guessing there's some kind of assembly inside the trunk that the shock bolts to that has additional rubber in it?

[luxuryrules]

I haven't looked in the trunk specifically, but it sound like you guys are talking about something the upper shock bolts into something that is other than just sheet metal as usual. From the outside it just looks like there's only the rubbers on the top of the shock. I'm guessing there's some kind of assembly inside the trunk that the shock bolts to that has additional rubber in it?

Yep. Peel back the carpet in the trunk and you'll see what we're talking about. There is a essentially an oval plate that bolts to the frame, through the center of which is a rubber bushing. The shock stud sticks through that bushing and bolts to the top. The rubber deteriorates, resulting in metal to metal and thus, noise.

There are also a couple of sources for poly bushings instead of the stock rubber, which should last a good deal longer. I suspect that's what jamie was referring to for $25 bucks.

[bojo68]

Ok, thanks. I noticed some green looking rear sway bar link grommets(looks like High-Energy stuff) last trip to the bone yard on some tbirds, thinking maybe those may need to find their way onto mine....:)

[Loud94TC]

Is there a work around for torching the rubbers out of the mounts? I don't have a torch, can I just poke it out or something?

[Philip]

Is there a work around for torching the rubbers out of the mounts? I don't have a torch, can I just poke it out or something?

LOL, speaking for myself, I removed mine without a torch. Would I do it again? Heck-to-the-no! I actually cut out the old rubber (which suspends a metal sleeve) very painfully slow, it is some very durable stuff.

Next time, I'll buy new Motorcraft shock kits or get the specific mounts that have been mentioned here already.

[Loud94TC]

LOL, speaking for myself, I removed mine without a torch. Would I do it again? Heck-to-the-no! I actually cut out the old rubber (which suspends a metal sleeve) very painfully slow, it is some very durable stuff.

Next time, I'll buy new Motorcraft shock kits or get the specific mounts that have been mentioned here already.

Damn. I was hoping for a positive answer! Oh well, not on a Mark VIII... :rolleyes:

[Warthog5]

A propane torch works very well. They are not expensive. $20 at Lowes
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=95221-717-PK1001&lpage=none

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/070042/070042194654md.jpg


They work real well also to start the Barb Q grill when you don't have lighter fluid. :)

That's what I did mine with, even through I do have Oxy/Act torches. They are borrowed right now.

[Philip]

Damn. I was hoping for a positive answer! Oh well, not on a Mark VIII... :rolleyes:

informative answers are not always positive, lol! Just trying to point out that it is not worth it to jerry rig the old mounts when you can buy replacements cheaply. The positive part is that it is stupid easy to remove and reinstall a shock on these cars, I am very glad I decided to try that myself. You never have to lift a wheel off the ground, but I did use the factory jack to lift the suspension slightly to get the lower bolt in place.

[Loud94TC]

informative answers are not always positive, lol! Just trying to point out that it is not worth it to jerry rig the old mounts when you can buy replacements cheaply. The positive part is that it is stupid easy to remove and reinstall a shock on these cars, I am very glad I decided to try that myself. You never have to lift a wheel off the ground, but I did use the factory jack to lift the suspension slightly to get the lower bolt in place.

Yeha, you are right, and I appreciate the truth. I still am undecided, t-bird stuff or just replacing the factory mounts.

[BrooklynMarkVIII]

Is there a work around for torching the rubbers out of the mounts? I don't have a torch, can I just poke it out or something?

Go to Home Depot and get one of the small propane ones for about $12.00 that's what I did and burnt em out in about 1min.

[Loud94TC]

Good idea. Thanks. More than likely I will buy stock mounts, but I am pondering the lesser cost of t-bird stuff.

[luxuryrules]

Good idea. Thanks. More than likely I will buy stock mounts, but I am pondering the lesser cost of t-bird stuff.

Tbird shocks are the way to go, but Tbird mounts did not fly on my 96. For whatever reason, they were pretty much just bushings without the plate & studs to hold it to the frame, so I had no way to connect them at the top.

[Loud94TC]

Tbird shocks are the way to go, but Tbird mounts did not fly on my 96. For whatever reason, they were pretty much just bushings without the plate & studs to hold it to the frame, so I had no way to connect them at the top.

I was under the impression that if I order the SCP kit that is like $35 they came with washers that went above and below the bushings to make the shock stay bolted down right above the bushings where the shock bolt go up above the mounts, right?

This is the kit I was refering to: T-Bird polyurethane shock mount kit (http://supercoupeperformance.com/partBrowser.aspx?partId=502)

[jccpd]

Just send Eric the $30 for the steel mounts for our cars. They fit and you won't have to worry about it anymore.

[luxuryrules]

I was under the impression that if I order the SCP kit that is like $35 they came with washers that went above and below the bushings to make the shock stay bolted down right above the bushings where the shock bolt go up above the mounts, right?

This is the kit I was refering to: T-Bird polyurethane shock mount kit (http://supercoupeperformance.com/partBrowser.aspx?partId=502)

Ah, ok. Yep, Bill's kit will probably work. Double check with him when you order it, but I could see something like that doing the trick, I just didn't want you buying OE Tbird shocks and having them not fit.

[Loud94TC]

Just send Eric the $30 for the steel mounts for our cars. They fit and you won't have to worry about it anymore.

I don't just go around sending random people money for products I have not seen. Where can I contact/see his work?

Ah, ok. Yep, Bill's kit will probably work. Double check with him when you order it, but I could see something like that doing the trick, I just didn't want you buying OE Tbird shocks and having them not fit.

I appreciate the help. I was concerned because I did first think that the t-bird part would just go in.

[Warthog5]

I was concerned because I did first think that the t-bird part would just go in.

It will after you burn the stock rubber out of the plate.

http://www.socalmarks.com/how-to/rear-shocks/

[Philip]

you have to attach the mount to the car, then the aftermarket shock will bolt in using the supplied rubber parts that come with them.

[MGrove]

informative answers are not always positive, lol! Just trying to point out that it is not worth it to jerry rig the old mounts when you can buy replacements cheaply. The positive part is that it is stupid easy to remove and reinstall a shock on these cars, I am very glad I decided to try that myself. You never have to lift a wheel off the ground, but I did use the factory jack to lift the suspension slightly to get the lower bolt in place.

What is the procedure for replacing the shocks without lifting the car? I got a great deal on a pair of Monroes that are due to arrive today..

Thanks,

Mike