pinion angle

[JBLSC]

what should the correct pionion angle be for our cars?
the car is lowered a bit probly about 1.5 to 2 inches at all four corners
....i have a bad vibration at high speed and ive already broken 2 diveshafts at the back part that bolts up to the rear.
so i stoped dropping the clutch but its really hard not to=(...
sooo...could it be possible that 1.) the stock driveshaft assembly is not strong enough? or 2.)should i be looking into converting my driveshaft and u-joints to the early (and heavy-duty) 3150 style u-joint??

mind you the last lsc had almost 200k on the rear and drivshaft and i used to beat the piss out of it on a daily basis until a late model malibu took out the rear and quarterpanel=((

[marked for life]

How old are your rear upper control arm bushings and u joints? Not sure of the factory angle. In my case I needed to stop the rear end from going upwards. The driveshaft seems plenty strong even with the cardan joint back there. I put 700 lb ft of torque thru it on a dragstrip without breakage at 4400 hundered lbs. The 8.8 mustang pinion snubber won't work on are cars because it does not have the bolt holes on top , I am presently reengineering that snubber and making a simple reinforcement plate where it makes contact to the body I am going to try to use the mustang snubber and re engineer it. I have a 1350 spicer cardan joint from some 4 wheelin stuff but it's awful heavy. You will have a slight vibration with a straight shaft plus you have to change the rear yoke. Ford would have used a straight shaft if there were not these vibration problems that developred during production testing. Maybe set the car back to factoy height and see if the problem goes away.

[JBLSC]

How old are your rear upper control arm bushings and u joints? Not sure of the factory angle. In my case I needed to stop the rear end from going upwards. The driveshaft seems plenty strong even with the cardan joint back there. I put 700 lb ft of torque thru it on a dragstrip without breakage at 4400 hundered lbs. The 8.8 mustang pinion snubber won't work on are cars because it does not have the bolt holes on top , I am presently reengineering that snubber and making a simple reinforcement plate where it makes contact to the body I am going to try to use the mustang snubber and re engineer it. I have a 1350 spicer cardan joint from some 4 wheelin stuff but it's awful heavy. You will have a slight vibration with a straight shaft plus you have to change the rear yoke. Ford would have used a straight shaft if there were not these vibration problems that developred during production testing. Maybe set the car back to factoy height and see if the problem goes away.
yeah like i said the last lsc never had a driveshaft problem so it could definatly be the upper bushings....would adjustables from mustang work?

[1989LSC]

You need uppers from an 83-88 t bird. Maximum motorsports used to make em.

[marked for life]

If needed just replace with the ford durometer bushings. Stay away from poly (major squeaks) and poly with the aftermarket control arms will also start to tear the mounts out. Stick with the factory stuff for a street car...

[JBLSC]

ok thats probly what the problem is..the rear is twisting up under acceleration...so you recomend just throwing new bushings in and steer away from adjustable uppers?

[marked for life]

I would replace both the front and rear control arm bushing with rubber and weld a plate on to the bottom of the upper control arm (boxing it in) doing one side at a time... stage weld it as not to temper the metal...

[JBLSC]

I would replace both the front and rear control arm bushing with rubber and weld a plate on to the bottom of the upper control arm (boxing it in) doing one side at a time... stage weld it as not to temper the metal...

ok will do..sounds like a plan,thanks alot man