View Full Version : Brake issues
JSev22
October 16th, 2008, 07:01 AM
Just repaired rusted brake lines that deposited most all of the fluid on the ground. Both 1/4 and 3/16 lines were spliced out where they cross the K-member. Filled reservoir, bled brakes (didn't realize you could use the system pressure to do the rears) but this might relate to my problem. the pedal goes to the floor, The ABS light never goes out and the Red Brake light eventual illuminates if you press the brake pedal enough times. I don't hear the ABS pump coming on and you can see the fluid in the reservoir 'bubbling' (not like air bubbles but fluid returning to it). I swapped the pump relay with a known good one from my Turbocoupe (same ABS system). Any thoughts or suggestions?
hypostang
October 16th, 2008, 07:51 AM
Well, i may or may not be able to help , I am having a problem with my pump running too often :) , the fluid you see "bubbling" is coming out of the accumulator returning to the master reservoir , that much I am sure of . Does the red light go out after a few (10-15) seconds of turning the key on ? What procedure did you use for bleeding ? Do the brakes actually stop the car ? or is there no pedal at all like the line is still broken ? I'm starting to understand the appeal of an svo master cylinder swap personally. ;)
Artbaileyjr
October 16th, 2008, 11:58 PM
You can bleed the accumulator by turning the ign switch off and while a friend holds the brake pedal down, bleed one of the rear brakes. (Just open the bleeder and let 'er rip until the fluid stops flowing.) This will purge the accumulator. Re-fill the reservoir with fresh fluid, turn the ignition switch back on and wait for the pump to stop. Repeat the precess until you have clean, bubble free fluid. Bleed the other rear brake, then bleed the fronts in a conventional method. This takes about 4 quarts of fresh fluid. Your accumulator, reservoir and the balance of the system will then have a fresh charge of moisture free, clean fluid. Your brake master, ABS valving and pump will love you for it!
It's helpful if you suck as much fluid out of the reservoir as you can before you start, and refill with fresh fluid.
Art
JSev22
October 17th, 2008, 06:17 AM
Pump is not coming on........
Bluegrass
October 18th, 2008, 02:09 AM
Pump control is a two stage circuit.
First stage is the pressure sense that pulls up the power relay.
The second stage is the power thru the relay to the pump motor.
The pump draws 30 amps so needs this two stage control.
Check the starter relay lead for tightness, the fuse link for being open, then the relay for being operated.
Check the pump power plug for corrosion. It has 4 leads. Two hots and two grounds.
If the relay does not pull up then the pressure switch is in trouble.
The pressure switch is hi/lo limit acting.
Testing at the right points in the circuit will tell you what is not functioning.
The system warning lamps are triggered by the pressure switch thru the control module.
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