92 LSC with 5.0 HO no start, just clicks.

[jswever]

Hello, new to this site. Looking for help with a 92 LSC with the HO 5.0. When trying to start it just clicks and does not turn over. It does this off and on, no set pattern, just works fine then just clicks. The radio and the driver door number pad stopped working about the same time the starting trouble started(don't think they are related?) Replaced battery, starter solenoid, eek relay, fuel relay, abs relay(which was blown) and the relay behind the abs. Also replaced the ignition switch on the column. Tested the starter and it checks out fine. Also tested the wires going to the starter and they are fine, no corrosion on ends of wires. When the relays were replaced the car started fine for a few days. Then just clicks, I replaced the relay behind the abs relay with the old one and car started fine for a few days. Then just clicks. This is very frustrating and I get no answers from auto shops in my area. They can't find the problem. If anybody has experienced this or has heard of this I would sure appreciate some advice. Thanks.

[Hizhonor]

Hello, new to this site. Looking for help with a 92 LSC with the HO 5.0. When trying to start it just clicks and does not turn over. It does this off and on, no set pattern, just works fine then just clicks. The radio and the driver door number pad stopped working about the same time the starting trouble started(don't think they are related?) Replaced battery, starter solenoid, eek relay, fuel relay, abs relay(which was blown) and the relay behind the abs. Also replaced the ignition switch on the column. Tested the starter and it checks out fine. Also tested the wires going to the starter and they are fine, no corrosion on ends of wires. When the relays were replaced the car started fine for a few days. Then just clicks, I replaced the relay behind the abs relay with the old one and car started fine for a few days. Then just clicks. This is very frustrating and I get no answers from auto shops in my area. They can't find the problem. If anybody has experienced this or has heard of this I would sure appreciate some advice. Thanks.

If you follow the forum topics, you'll see that this particular item has been discussed just about all week. FIRST ... disconnect ALL of your battery cables and clean all the cable ends and the posts on the battery; do the same for ALL of the wires going to the starter solenoid. (it could be you have a bad solenoid right from the box...it's been known to happen) ;disconnect and clean the negative cable end going to the engine block and clean that area also! Check the braided ground cables along the firewall.

C~heck the fuseable links..... read the other topics on this subject in this forum. There's a ton of info in there. One more thing.... the circuit breaker that attaches next to the solenoid could be starting to go. Without that, your power seats and other accessories won't work correctly.

[StanTheMan]

I had a similar problem for overa year. Most of the time it would start fine but more frequently, it would not turn over. I found that if I turned the ignition key and held it, it would usually start after a second or two delay. It eventually got worse and I took it to Ford. The end result was what the Ford place called a "starter relay" and I think they said it was on the fuse panel. You may have already found and replaced this but maybe not.

[Hizhonor]

I had a similar problem for overa year. Most of the time it would start fine but more frequently, it would not turn over. I found that if I turned the ignition key and held it, it would usually start after a second or two delay. It eventually got worse and I took it to Ford. The end result was what the Ford place called a "starter relay" and I think they said it was on the fuse panel. You may have already found and replaced this but maybe not.


It's the starter "solenoid" and it's located on the driver side inner fenderwell next to the battery.

[Magic Al]

You said you replaced the ignition switch "on the column". Do you mean the electrical part or the key cylinder? My car acted exactly this way & it was the ignition (electrical part) switch. I have an '89 and it's located in the column. On yours it's located under the dash I believe. If you did not change the electrical switch part of the ignition, that could be the problem.

[jswever]

Hello, thanks for the suggestions, I will check the connections and see what happens.

[jswever]

Hello, actually we replaced both with no change. Still acting the same way.

[Artbaileyjr]

Put a starter in it.

Art

[MichiganTeddyBear]

Put a starter in it.

Art

I agree, especially if its a permanet magnet starter (I dont know when ford switched the V-8's over)

the symptoms are typical of a hung brush on the motor.

also, with a hung (or sticking) brush, pulling the starter, taking it in to test it, will free up the brush for a time, and make it test ok.

[Drake_tr7]

+1 ;)

[gadget73]

I agree, especially if its a permanet magnet starter (I dont know when ford switched the V-8's over)

the symptoms are typical of a hung brush on the motor.

also, with a hung (or sticking) brush, pulling the starter, taking it in to test it, will free up the brush for a time, and make it test ok.

1991 or so was the switchover. Some 1990s got it as well.


Usually I've diagnosed the dead brush symptom with the ultimate troubleshooting tool: a hammer. If it won't do anything but click, whack the starter. If it starts, replace the starter.

[Artbaileyjr]

+1 with the hammer. Still, put a starter in it and forget about it.

Art

[Bluegrass]

If the starter relay clicks once each start attempt the ignition switch is not at fault.
If the start relay clicks mutiple times on each attempt, the power to the starter has "high resistance" from poor connections or a low battery or both.
A relay click can also be a faulty starter or the single small lead is open that operates the starter internal pullup.
The start circuit is a double relay arrangement. One at the fender panel and one internal to the starter. A fault in either location is a no start.
There should be no problem localizing the fault with testing and observation of these areas.
.
Secondary to all this is the possibility the charge circuit is intermittantly draining down the battery to a low no start level due to shorted diode stack and/or a faulty regulator that keeps the field powered up after shutdown. The only shutdown in the charge circuit is the regulator after the ignition is in the off position.
You must look at the operations of each part to find what is not working correctly.
Replacing parts without a basis is just chaseing luck, spending money, and creating frustration..

[JBLSC]

bad ground

[spice90LSC]

Hey guys,
I'm having the same problem. Won't start just click. I used a jumper from the relay to the battery and the car started. I went to change the relay but got the wires all screwed up. Does anybody know the wiring or for the starter relay.

[Hizhonor]

Hey guys,
I'm having the same problem. Won't start just click. I used a jumper from the relay to the battery and the car started. I went to change the relay but got the wires all screwed up. Does anybody know the wiring or for the starter relay.


BLACK wire from NEGATIVE battery cable goes onto the left hand post of the starter solenoid on the firewall. All of the others go on the right hand post. Don't forget to re-attach the 20 AMP Circuit breaker. Don't forget the wire to the small center post on the solenoid.

[spice90LSC]

Thanks, I will try it tomorrow.

SPICE

[Hizhonor]

http://thelincolnmarkviiclub.org/Gallery/albums/oldschool1/P1071532.sized.jpg

[Magic Al]

BLACK wire from NEGATIVE battery cable goes onto the left hand post of the starter solenoid on the firewall. All of the others go on the right hand post. Don't forget to re-attach the 20 AMP Circuit breaker. Don't forget the wire to the small center post on the solenoid.

Am I reading that wrong? You don't mean to connect the negative cable to the starter solonoid do you? Would have a heck of a short when you turned the key.

[Hizhonor]

Am I reading that wrong? You don't mean to connect the negative cable to the starter solonoid do you? Would have a heck of a short when you turned the key.

NO! Not the big wire!!!!! :rolleyes: The thinner gauge ground wire.

[Drake_tr7]

Now there's a visual for ya ! :eek:

[outlaw69]

NO! Not the big wire!!!!! :rolleyes: The thinner gauge ground wire.

There's no ground wire that goes to the relay as the big wire goes to the engine block and small wire goes to the body.All the the wires on the relay are positive.The two bolts holding the relay to the body is were it gets the negative from.

[Hizhonor]

There's no ground wire that goes to the relay as the big wire goes to the engine block and small wire goes to the body.All the the wires on the relay are positive.The two bolts holding the relay to the body is were it gets the negative from.

Hmmmm... then I have to pull the battery (have to anyway) and see where that wire is coming from. It may just be a black wire that was used to power something up by the previous owner.

Thanks for correction!

[Artbaileyjr]

Just to be completely clear on this. In NO EVENT should a ground wire be connected to ANY terminal on the solenoid.. EVER!

On ALL models, only the starter wire connects to one side of the solenoid. On pre '90 models, it will be a large wire.... on '90 & later it will be a smaller wire, but ONLY ONE. The other side of the solenoid, ALL OTHER wires (except the small wire with a right angle molded end) should be connected, including the battery cable. It makes no difference which side of the solenoid this occurs.

Art

[Hizhonor]

Just to me completely clear on this. In NO EVENT should a ground wire be connected to ANY terminal on the solenoid..EVER!

On ALL models, only the starter wire connects to one side of the solenoid. On pre '90 models, it will be a large wire.... on '90 & later it will be a smaller wire, but ONLY ONE. The other side of the solenoid, ALL OTHER wires (except the small wire with a right angle molded end) should be connected, including the battery cable.

Art

Iunderstand that, Art. What I'm saying is, that the wire (8 gauge maybe) is all black and is connected to the left side of the solenoid. (towards battery) I'll need to check that out and trace it. If it's a hot/power wire, it should have been red and not black. The previous owner hadan aftermarket remote system installed. I'm wondering if that is part of the set-up. The investigation begins. :confused:

[Drake_tr7]

Hmmm...methinks the showstopper may have some skeletons in her closet :hide: ;)

[PETE]

its not good to hit the perm magnet starters,but there is a solenoid on it to. mine was doing this,and a new starter fixed it. i traded an older core in,kept the old one,had it rebuilt,now i have a spare. as far as a ground wire from the solenoid on the fender,i have run a small wire from one of the mounting bolts,for another ground for it.at times it helps.

[Hizhonor]

Hmmm...methinks the showstopper may have some skeletons in her closet :hide: ;)

BOO! :p

[FakeConvertible]

I had a similar problem with an Aerostar (lets try not to talk about Aerostars again). It turned out to be the connector on the starter end of the energizer wire. (the small wire with a blade connector on the starter). Good luck