Fuel injector replacement

[Erik]

94 Town Car Sig; 250k miles

Recently the car started stumbling on the freeway, and got worse to include at idle. I replaced the spark plugs and air filter (very dirty filter). Helped a little. Cleaned the MAF and the throttle body, added Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel. Helped a little more as we ran through the tank. Plug wires are Motorcraft 8mm, a year old.

Seafoamed the engine, added seafoam to the tank. Cleared the computer and it ran great for almost 150 miles, then started getting worse again. I checked the fuel pressure regulator, it's ok.

Gonna do the fuel filter next, but I'm really feeling it might be the injectors since the seafoam seemed to work so well. The manual says to undo all the lines including the ones that need special tool XXX. When I look at the rails, it looks like it might be possible to just lift the rails up to clear...anyone out there have any input on the best way to replace the injectors?

Or, anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks,

Erik

[nicholas77586]

BG 44k will clean those injectors. Its hard to find tho. worth a shot maybe, but at those miles maybe they are just plain bad:confused:

[Erik]

BG 44k will clean those injectors. Its hard to find tho. worth a shot maybe, but at those miles maybe they are just plain bad:confused:

My thoughts too, that at this mileage and my empty pocket, I might as well just buy some reman injectors and install them rather than spend my money cleaning these and find out one is bad.

So again, anyone want to describe how easy/hard the job is?

Erik

[no0c]

My thoughts too, that at this mileage and my empty pocket, I might as well just buy some reman injectors and install them rather than spend my money cleaning these and find out one is bad.

So again, anyone want to describe how easy/hard the job is?

Erik

Fuel Injection Supply Manifold

Removal

1. Perform Steps 1 through 3 under «Fuel Charging System» , Pre-Service Procedures.

Fuel Charging System

Pre-Service Procedures

The fuel charging system consists of the fuel injection supply manifold, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator and the intake manifold. Prior to service or removal of the fuel charging system the following steps must be taken:
1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).

2. Removefuel tank filler cap (9030) and release fuel tank pressure.
CAUTION:
The fuel system is normally pressurized to 276 kPa (39 psi).

3. Release pressure from fuel system. Refer to «Section 10-01» for fuel system pressure relief procedures. A fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel injection supply manifold is provided for this procedure.

2. Remove air cleaner outlet tube from throttle body.

3. Disconnect vacuum line at fuel pressure regulator.

4. Remove spring lock coupling retainer clip from fuel inlet and return fittings.

5. Using Spring Lock Coupling Disconnect Tool D87L-9280-A or B or equivalent, disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses from the fuel injection supply manifold as outlined.
NOTE:

The following items should be noted when service is required:

Use specified tool or equivalent.
Inspect for missing or damaged O-rings.
Use the specified fuel resistant O-rings (Brown).
Lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil.
Check to ensure that the fitting is locked.
6. Disconnect fuel charging wiring from fuel injectors.

7. Remove four fuel injection supply manifold retaining bolts (two on each side).
NOTE:
It may be easier to remove fuel injectors with the fuel injection supply manifold as an assembly.

8. Carefully disengage fuel injection supply manifold from fuel injectors and remove fuel injection supply manifold.

9. Use a rocking, side-to-side motion while lifting to remove fuel injectors from fuel injection supply manifold.


Installation

NOTE:
When installing fuel injection supply manifold particular attention should be paid to proper seating of fuel injector O-rings to ensure that no fuel leaks exist.
1. Push fuel injection supply manifold down to ensure all fuel injector O-rings are fully seated in the fuel injection supply manifold cups and intake manifold.

2. Install retaining bolts while holding fuel injection supply manifold down. Tighten retaining bolts to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).

3. Install spring lock coupling as outlined.

4. Connect vacuum line to fuel pressure regulator.

5. With fuel charging wiring disconnected, turn ignition switch to the RUN position to allow the fuel pump to pressurize the system.

6. Using a clean towel, check for fuel leaks.

7. Connect fuel charging wiring to fuel injectors.

8. Install air cleaner outlet tube. Tighten engine air cleaner tube clamps to 2.5-3.2 N-m (22-28 lb-in).

9. Run vehicle at idle for two minutes. Turn engine OFF and inspect for leaks.

[Erik]

So I took the TC out this morning to take the kid to school. The stumbling of the engine was bad.

I noticed the heater wasn't working, on any position (Auto; Floor/Def; Floor) and when I put it on AC, the stumbling cleared quite a bit. So now I'm thinking vacuum leak in the Climate Control?

Any usual suspects there, and how hard is it to get to them?

Thanks,

Erik

[BillyBob TC]

So I took the TC out this morning to take the kid to school. The stumbling of the engine was bad.

I noticed the heater wasn't working, on any position (Auto; Floor/Def; Floor) and when I put it on AC, the stumbling cleared quite a bit. So now I'm thinking vacuum leak in the Climate Control?

Any usual suspects there, and how hard is it to get to them?

Thanks,

Erik

this sounds like a mask. you say above 'quite a bit' with ac on, meaning not completely gone either. in your OP, you say 'worse at idle'. well the moment you turn the ac on the computer raises the idle to compensate the load. sounds like thats running properly and it is at a higher, more stable idle. i dont think its the climate control....

[Jerry in Pitt PA]

I just replaced the plugs & plug wires. one plug was gas fouled. i think the same cylinder was gas fouled last time I changed plugs. It's not runing perfect, slight miss at idle, hi way speed a little rough.

Could a bad injector cause this plug fouling?

184,000 miles and lots of life left on my 93 TC!

Jerry

[no0c]

I just replaced the plugs & plug wires. one plug was gas fouled. i think the same cylinder was gas fouled last time I changed plugs. It's not runing perfect, slight miss at idle, hi way speed a little rough.

Could a bad injector cause this plug fouling?

184,000 miles and lots of life left on my 93 TC!

Jerry

Or a bad plug or wire or compression problem.

What brand of plugs and wires?

Good luck.

[Dereck]

Hi Erik

The common vacuum leak is on the rubber tee on the side of the intake elbow, follow the PCV pipe and you should find it.

Regards

Dereck

[Jerry in Pitt PA]

Tim,

Plugs are autolite 764 copper core, wires are motorcraft WR5927. Should be the right stuff!

Never figured how to pull codes on this car. Saw a way to make up a 12V light bulb and read the flashes. Any good post on code reading a 93 TC?

Derrick,

I guess you mean the tee on top the PCV? is leak problem area?

Thanks,

Jerry

This is a great web page!

[Chevyguy]

Tee off

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q329/folingo/2001%20Crown%20Victoria/93%20Crown%20Victoria%20P-71/P3070226.jpg

[no0c]

Tim,

Plugs are autolite 764 copper core, wires are motorcraft WR5927. Should be the right stuff!

Never figured how to pull codes on this car. Saw a way to make up a 12V light bulb and read the flashes. Any good post on code reading a 93 TC?

Derrick,

I guess you mean the tee on top the PCV? is leak problem area?

Thanks,

Jerry

This is a great web page!

Oh Jerry,

I didn't realize you had a CEL.

Here's how to do it:

<<<<<<CLICK HERE>>>>>> (http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13)

The Tee that Dereck speaks of is at the passenger side rear of the intake manifold as Chevyguy illustrated. Here it is circled.

Good luck.

http://www.lincolnsonline.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7686&d=1254954400

[Jerry in Pitt PA]

I always try to use original replacement ford parts. Have not found the part number for this TEE yet, anybody know the part number?

Jerry

[no0c]

I always try to use original replacement ford parts. Have not found the part number for this TEE yet, anybody know the part number?

Jerry

Hi Jerry,

Finding the exact part number for your car is difficult at best on the web. I have yet to find a site that tabulates such. Maybe someone else has and would share that information with us as it would be quite handy for all of us.

My suggestion would be to call your FLM dealer and ask them for the base part number 6C324 for your 93 TC. Using that method makes very easy for the parts person and he will have that part number in seconds. Another approach, although probably slower, may be to inquire to one of the many online Ford parts departments with your query. Their websites, or the ones I use, seem to be down at the moment.

http://www.lincolnsonline.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7759&d=1256236135

If you find that, please post back and perhaps it will help you down someone else down the line.

Regards and good luck.

[Jerry in Pitt PA]

Tim,

I found a Dorman 47072 3/8" Tee, I think its a Ford F7LZ6B899AA for $2.98 on rockauto.com. I've seen several LOL post that this tee is a vacuum leak problem. For 3 bucks it sound like a deal!

Jerry

[no0c]

Tim,

I found a Dorman 47072 3/8" Tee, I think its a Ford F7LZ6B899AA for $2.98 on rockauto.com. I've seen several LOL post that this tee is a vacuum leak problem. For 3 bucks it sound like a deal!

Jerry

And freight kind of blows that huh?

O'Reilly list's it as something they offer as well.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?keyword=47072 $4.69

And so does Advance Auto.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_PCV-Connectors-&-Hoses-Dorman_22147166-P_N4016C_A%7CGRP2037____ $5.24

I think most auto parts outlets can probably get you one. Of course I'm not familiar with what you have available. It seems most of them vend Dorman products.

Ford's MSRP for F7LZ-6B899-AA is $13.32.

Good luck.