View Full Version : 77 Lincoln Continental

November 14th, 2017, 09:51 AM
Hello intelligent life. Just bought a Land yacht this past weekend and before I bought it I went and checked it out 4 weeks before. It had been sitting for 7 years and the guy had the battery out and the vehicle was on E. We put a battery in, $2 of gas and it fired up. I had it towed home simply because it's not registered yet and now it won't start. I put $15 of gas in the tank took the battery from my Marquis and all it did was crank. I took the fuel line loose at the front and turned it on, the gas shoots out so I know both my fuel pumps are working. I sprayed starting fluid in the carb and it would start for 3 seconds and then cut off. I guess I repeated this too many times because I blew my solenoid that mounts to the wheel well and the car would try to crank constantly without the key in the ignition. Now here's where I'm getting frustrated. I replaced the solenoid so it's no longer cranking on its own but when I try to start it now it only cranks for one try, I turn the key again and it won't do anything until I wait a while (4-8min). And this process is just repeated. My connections seem secure and tight, the starter seems fine, the battery isn't dead, and it has enough gas in the tank. Does anyone think it may be the solenoid, something connected to the solenoid or maybe a bad switch. Do I need a stronger battery. The next thing I'm going to do is remove the carb. and clean it. Anything helps. Thanks in advance!! Trey.

November 14th, 2017, 10:41 AM
It will need a carb rebuild after sitting that long. Mine sat for 15 and amazingly, I did nothing to it for 2 years of driving before the accelerator pump went out, then the carb finally gave up the ghost.

If it will start and run on starting fluid, and you're getting FRESH gas in the carb, the carb isn't delivering fuel properly.

It may just be stuck or out of adjustment, what I have done is pop the hood, take off the air cleaner lid, and skillfully spray brake cleaner in the carb while I'm cranking, and continue for 15 seconds or so after it starts. If it dies after you stop spraying 15 seconds later, its a fuel delivery issue. If it keeps running, may be an issue with the choke, trash in the carb, or something else within it.

Try what I just said and report back.

The solenoid is likely bad. They are all utter crap. If you can find a NOS one, that's the way to go.

I had one weld the contacts together and keep cranking until I pulled the battery terminal, the second wouldn't pull in to send the current to the starter, and the third one worked, although something happened the other day and I had to smack it with a hammer to get it to crank the car. Had 12V on the trigger wire, but no trigger.


November 14th, 2017, 11:49 AM
Welcome to the forum where intelligent life abounds, not necessarily with me, but...
I have to agree about the carbs on these cars, and I would also invest s few $ in a clip on starter button. the solenoids can be jumped to crank the engine key on or off.
With the air cleaner off, prop the choke butterfly open with a screwdriver, manually work the throttle, and you should be able to see, hear or smell gas being shot into the carb body. If not, don't waste any more time, pull the carb off.
You already have proof of life (it runs). Now it's just a quality of life issue.
How many miles on it? Is the roof shot like the pic seems to show?

November 14th, 2017, 02:41 PM
Those old carbs had choke heaters and if you keep trying to start it the choke will be wide open after a short period of time, you may have to hand choke it when it's cold.

Put a test light or a volt meter on the small terminal of the starter and have someone turn the key on and see if it lights. If it does there is something wrong with the solenoid.

A jumper from the battery positive terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid will bypass the ignition switch.

November 14th, 2017, 06:45 PM
Most chokes run off the alternator stator. Unless the engine is actually running, it gets no voltage so it will not open.

You've probably overworked the starter. If the solenoid fused from cranking too much, the starter won't have liked it any better. Battery cables and ground connection on the engine are also worth inspecting. Electrical connections do not improve with age like a fine wine.

Carb is probably in need of an overhaul. May be clogged with petrified fuel, may just have the needle stuck. Either way it needs to come off for a cleaning and some new internal bits.

November 15th, 2017, 08:12 AM
@ markedman 90 it's got 34,xxx miles and the roof has rust around the edges. The cloth top is of course trashed.
So guys I replaced the fuel filter and fixed my solenoid problem, there are 2 small wires that go on 2 studs on the solenoid. Problem is they don't screw on so I had to squeeze them with vise grips to where that actually fit. After changing the fuel filter I got better results with it starting I actually got 2 rumbles out of the damn thing. The carb is as Clean as it's gonna get and of But of course it died. Guess I have no choice but to rebuild.

November 15th, 2017, 03:41 PM
Stringing them together is the fun part. My MK III sat in a warehouse for a reported 20 yrs. and it "rumbled" and grumbled with no #3 intake lifter or pushrod. The pcs. were included, but non-functional. The absolutely new with all the nubs Firestones were from 1991 per the date code. I bought it in '11, and the fun began.
I urge you to find as many manuals and diagrams as you can.

November 19th, 2017, 11:47 AM
Update. So I took off the top part of the carb and the fuel bowl was empty and dirty. Cleaned it up wasn't really able to tell if anything is clogged, what am I looking for? Anyway I put gas in the bowl put it back together and it fired up and ran but I guess it died after using all the fuel in the bowl