oil filter

boyer452 · #1 November 3rd, 2009, 05:54 PM

as you know changing oil on the mark 8 is a pita and i am wondering is there an extension that you can put on to move the filter into a more appropriate place to where you can change it quickly if there is can you direct me to the correct place to purchase

OneWayStreet · #2 November 3rd, 2009, 06:01 PM

>>>>Moving this one to the Mark VIII forum. >>>>

Desert Stallion · #3 November 3rd, 2009, 06:28 PM

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4985/

RallyZCamaro · #4 November 3rd, 2009, 07:14 PM

Boyer,
I already have gone that route. It's a great idea. But, the only economically viable way of doing it, is the Trans-Dapt kit for Modular Ford engines. I bought that kit and the optional 90 degree adapter (due to the lack of space in the engine cradle) and some fabrication to get it to work. The threaded pipe nipple that the filter spins on to, is about is about 1/4" too long for the adapter, to fit flush to the block. So it has to be shortened and de-burred. Then once you get the right angle adapter on and clocked to face forward (the only direction that you can get a crows foot on the hose fitting to snug them down) then you have to find a location to mount the oil filter pad. There is so little space in the front of the engine compartment that it becomes a major task to mount the filter pad and to be able to mount it low enough that you don't get drainback from your filter when the engine is off. Which means you will have dry starts when you crank the engine. The only place you can mount the filter pad low enough, to make the filter easily accessible is on the passenger side of the frame brace, right by the Harmonic balancer/lower belt pulley with U-bolts (which require drilling of the filter pad mounting flange). That was the only location that would work so that the hoses wouldn't be susceptible to kinking.
I used the kit for about 6 months or so and even though I teflon taped all the fittings I started getting slight leaks. Then, one day after leaving work, I went over a (newly paved) railroad crossing at about 30 mph and the front end bottomed out. I pulled over and looked under the front end for damage. the car was fine, but the lower of the two oil lines had rubbed the asphalt. The hose lasted for about a week before it started leaking at the abrasion. So, I went and bought a stock oil filter, and took the kit off.
All in all, the adapter kit made it easier to change oil but the headaches that it caused, weren't worth it to me. Nowadays, I stuff some newspaper across the engine cradle and let the oil run down into my drain pan for a few minutes then take the filter out through the opening by the sway bar. It's a PITA, but it's the best way I have found to do it. There are other adapters out there for racing applications that are made better, but will run you in the neighborhood of $300, just for the parts.

younglincoln · #5 November 3rd, 2009, 11:28 PM

i was wondering about this to becaus the motorcraft filter az said to use was to large to fit in and i had to use the penzoil one, what filters do you guys use?

93' Blue on blue · #6 November 4th, 2009, 12:36 AM

Motorcraft FL820S is correct filter.

Widely available, even most Walmart stores sell them for around $4.

What filter did AZ give you that was too large to fit?

jccpd · #7 November 4th, 2009, 02:42 AM

I did the same set up as Rally (above), but I mounted my filters a little different. I also got tired of trying to put such a small filter onto the block. I removed my battery, put it in the trunk, and then used the battery space for the filter. I found I had enough room to put a twin filter for the engine, and another filter for the transmission where the battery was. Further, with the extra space for where the battery was, I put a transmission filter (all are Mobil 1 301s). These filters (engine and transmission) feed two seperate oil coolers that I plumbed in front of the radiator. The result? An engine that never gets above the "A" on the temperture gauge in the hot south Texas sun, a new ease at changing the oil filters, and the weight of a 75 pound battery in the trunk.

Shevretti · #8 November 4th, 2009, 06:01 AM

I used K&N HP-2010 last time changing oil in my Mark VIII and it was much easier to push it thru that maze than with Motorcraft filter.

Philip · #9 November 4th, 2009, 08:16 AM

I'll admit to admiring anyone determined enough to change their own oil these days, but the actual cost of materials and need to properly dispose of the used oil make the $30 dealer oil change look even more attractive now than it did years ago. And with that, you get the exact Motorcraft filter and someone else's shop rag cleaning off the spills.

RallyZCamaro · #10 November 4th, 2009, 08:18 AM

JCCPD, That was a helluva idea. I have often thought that putting a spin on filter for the Trans would be a great idea. re-locating the battery is about the only way to gain space.

Shevretti, I have used the K&N's as well and they are a little bit easier than using the M/C's. I was able to put a socket on the end of the filter and use my two longest extension's on a 3/8" drive ratchet. The combined extensions stuck through the gap between the frame rail and inner-wheel enabling me to loosen the filter from there. Which cuts down on the mess that you get running down your arm. Much, much easier.