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#1
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Advise on changing heater core
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1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC. Rebuilt302,stock forged pistons,rods shotpeened,stock crank,all balanced internals,stock HOroller cam,ported upper & lower intakes,65mm throttlebody,ported E7 heads,stainless steel GT-40 int/exh valvs stage 2 port/polish,600. lift springs,1.7 cobra roller rockers,1" 5/8 headman mid-length headers,cats removed,2 3/4inch stainless steel exhaust system,X-pipe ,rebuilt AOD,heavy duty B&M internals,B&M shift kit,SCT performance module.3.73 8.8 rearend,Hughs 3200 stall conv. |
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#2
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Get the tech article here on the forum and follow it step by step. The two biggest things you need to watch out for are tight connections from the harness and that ALL of the ground wires you may have to disconnect are reconnected to a clean grounding point. TAKE YOU'RE TIME!!!
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"I bought a noise filter for my car but I can still hear my wife when she's talking to me!" ![]() '92 Mark VII LSC SE
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#3
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Quote:
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1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC. Rebuilt302,stock forged pistons,rods shotpeened,stock crank,all balanced internals,stock HOroller cam,ported upper & lower intakes,65mm throttlebody,ported E7 heads,stainless steel GT-40 int/exh valvs stage 2 port/polish,600. lift springs,1.7 cobra roller rockers,1" 5/8 headman mid-length headers,cats removed,2 3/4inch stainless steel exhaust system,X-pipe ,rebuilt AOD,heavy duty B&M internals,B&M shift kit,SCT performance module.3.73 8.8 rearend,Hughs 3200 stall conv. |
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#4
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Matt 1989 Mark VII LSC Mod List http://www.cardomain.com/ride/576934 1992 Thunderbird Sport (Sold) |
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#5
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Wow....thank you for posting the pics......Oh and by the way,nice looking interior.....
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1990 Lincoln Mark VII LSC. Rebuilt302,stock forged pistons,rods shotpeened,stock crank,all balanced internals,stock HOroller cam,ported upper & lower intakes,65mm throttlebody,ported E7 heads,stainless steel GT-40 int/exh valvs stage 2 port/polish,600. lift springs,1.7 cobra roller rockers,1" 5/8 headman mid-length headers,cats removed,2 3/4inch stainless steel exhaust system,X-pipe ,rebuilt AOD,heavy duty B&M internals,B&M shift kit,SCT performance module.3.73 8.8 rearend,Hughs 3200 stall conv. |
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#6
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Oh boy, I was going to do this this weekend, after seeing those pictures, maybe I'll just buy my girl a heavy coat and tell her to deal with it!
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#7
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LMAO!!!!! Just take your time and document what you do. Keep bolts from one area seperate from the others and use tape or a marker to identify parts and locations. Just remember, make sure all the grounds are nice and tight and on a clean surface when you re-install the dash.
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"I bought a noise filter for my car but I can still hear my wife when she's talking to me!" ![]() '92 Mark VII LSC SE
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#8
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You don't need to completly remove the whole dash. I removed the console, dropped the steering wheel. Removed 5 screws from the dash, swung it out, and rested it on the passenger seat, removed the heater box and replaced heater and evaporator cores along with the blower motor as long as I was in there. I didn't unplug or disconnect any wiring except what was connected to the heater box. It's still a solid 8 hour job.
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http://www.motortopia.com/album/brow...rs/u/bill89lsc The Twins 89 Mark VII LSC- Sunny Days Only 88 Mark VII LSC- 4500 orig.miles- Display Only 96 T-Bird 4.6L- Other Days 92 F-150- My Mule 79 Kawasaki KZ 1300 6 cyl- BIG Grins Power Tour Long Hauler 2005 2006 2007 2008 |
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#9
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'86 Mark VII LSC, Florida car bought with 93k miles. Bad maroon paint job, Mostly Gray interior, some still red. Still Stock but, NEW Plans! - Dilapidated Mess (gone)'92 MGM second owner , was my Uncle's but he passed away... Stock - Daily Driver (gone)'96 Escort LX 1.9 5speed stock 201k and counting |
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#10
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I didn't completly remove the dash either in mine i pulled the passenger side out removed 3 of the htr core cover took a long 1/2 in pipe pryed the box down held it with my leg slid the old core out and new one in. liike said above still took me about 10 straight hours by myself but htr is very hot now. just take ur time
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#11
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Sorry for the lack of pics, but I will add that the Shop Manual indicates you disconnect the A/C lines at the firewall and remove the whole assembly.
I did that the 1st time, but the 2nd was really wanting to keep the job cheap. Rather than remove the evap/heater core assembly, I left it in place and used my handy-dandy Dremel to cut the top of the plastic box (yet another Lincoln old timer advised me on this) to access the core. Some duct tape (black) re-secures the box and put it all back together. A purist may cringe, but the reality is NO ONE is going to ever see it.
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1990 LSC- Black interior/exterior. I want more power! 7 Time Hot Rod Power Tour Long Hauler 2003-2009 |
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#12
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Rather than remove the evap/heater core assembly, I left it in place and used my handy-dandy Dremel to cut the top of the plastic box (yet another Lincoln old timer advised me on this) to access the core.
Some duct tape (black) re-secures the box and put it all back together. A purist may cringe, but the reality is NO ONE is going to ever see it.[/QUOTE] How do you know where to cut ? ( I have been a staunch opponent of cutting my trunk floor but this is a mod i would surely do )
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88 LSC Dark Cabernet Sold 88 Town Car Signature that was my Dad's 88 Thunderbird LX, poor replacement for my Mark VII but a nice car in it's own right |
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#13
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IF I get around to swapping mine again (been putting it off for 4+ years) I'll take plenty of pics.
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1990 LSC- Black interior/exterior. I want more power! 7 Time Hot Rod Power Tour Long Hauler 2003-2009 |
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#14
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De the Ceasarian & Take The Core Out
from the FireWall.
Thus make a cut out of metal piece from the FireWall & voila there is the the entire A/C Heater Arragement. So did I on my 1984 & I will do it on my 1989 if needed, but then I will probably have to take of the upper intake too. When properly adjusted you will then be able to change the next heater core in less than 30 minutes. Often you need 4 hands & two big screwdrivers as you will cut as little as possible on the plastic lid |
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#15
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Quote:
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1991 LSC, 1976 Corvette, 2002 Mercedes Benz CL500 |
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#16
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I'd like to see that too, exactly where to cut. Seems like it would be way eaiser than pulling the dash
All I'd have to pull is the flowzilla off the back of the blower.I figure I'm on way borrowed time, 198 on the clock and the factory core is still holding
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" If a little is good, and more is better, then too much is just right "
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#17
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Yeah, my core went several years ago with probably 140k miles on the car at the time and I've been nursing it with stop leak which works fairly well. However, I do get the smell once in a while. Now my evaporator has decided to start leaking so I guess I've put the task off long enough. Actually it's for sale in the trader now but it's not my style to stick someone with the evap leaking.
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1991 LSC, 1976 Corvette, 2002 Mercedes Benz CL500 |
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#18
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Hav Pictures - but How to get them HERE
I have a few pictures, but what to do to enclose them, tried to do an upload but it failed.
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#19
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Oh that smell???
So what about Liquid Glass (sodium silicate) to seal the leak?
I'm going to go for that cure. That is if I can find the liquid glass. I'm running vinegar through the system right now and will start a rinse of clear water till I can find the liquid glass then run that for a while then drain and replace with new fluid and thermostat. I hope that does the trick.
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91 LSC/SE, Electric Red Currant Lead or Follow, But Stay outa the Way |
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#20
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Can someone please show this individual how to set up pics here.
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1991 LSC, 1976 Corvette, 2002 Mercedes Benz CL500 |
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