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  #1  
Old August 5th, 2004, 10:02 AM
ManaBurrn ManaBurrn is offline
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Question

The stock radio stays on along with the window controls after you turn the car off, until you open the door. I see that the "pink wire" is responsible for this somehow (goes to some window relay), but only seems to put out 1-2VDC. Has anyone figured out how to use that wire with an aftermarket radio so that it stays on along with the windows until the door is opened?
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Old August 5th, 2004, 10:08 AM
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Anyone add this to a car that didn't have it originally? I'd love to update my Mark VII.
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Old August 5th, 2004, 12:54 PM
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Lightbulb

Maybe there is a relay inside the factory radio that flips the "on" power from acc to battery VIA the 1V reatained accessory lead?
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Old August 5th, 2004, 05:56 PM
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The "Lighting Control Module" provides an output to the radio called "Relay Cut" (Wire 194 Pink)which allows maintained operation until the LCM detects a door opening. The LCM will also timeout the radio after ~10 minutes.

It may be possible to add a relay at the radio's harness to achieve the same result for an aftermarket radio as shown below.


An alternate solution might add a wire from the power window feed (Wire 400) to the aftermarket's +12 ACC input.

I have not tried this, therefore proceed with caution as damage to the Lighting Control Module (located behind the glovebox) could occur if miswired or if too big of a relay is used. The diode shown is necessary to avoid noise spikes to the LCM.

[ August 08, 2004: Message edited by: rj ]
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Old August 6th, 2004, 01:21 AM
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I'll throw my 2 cents in as well...
Not knowing exactly how it works, but knowing the TC uses the Lighting Control Module to execute the delay, I would think that 12v is supplied to ALL the items that retain power. Seats are certainly not going to operate on 1v. As for the Mark, my '96 shop manual says it uses a Delayed Accessory Power Module to keep alive everything. I like that much better. Your BK/LG wire (circuit #297) is your power source for 12v. it splices into the ignition RUN circuit before the fuse block. As for the TC, I would run a wire from one of the seat relays to power the radio. You'll at least know there's enough power to run it safely.
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Old August 6th, 2004, 01:36 AM
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On a Town Car the seat relays are powered at all times, therefore the radio would stay on continously if the ACC power for the radio were connected there.

Manaburrn wanted the aftermarket radio to continue to play after turning the key off only until the door opened. At that point, the radio would shutdown. If ACC mode was turned on the radio would run. This is the standard mode for TC radios from 95 on. The suggested relay addition is possible from the radio connector without running wires to other locations in the car, such as the Window power.
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Old August 6th, 2004, 01:42 AM
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Just checked my 96 TC shop manual... Circuit 194 PK is a GROUND wire, not power. Better check your volt meter! Connector 358 on the radio lists it as the window accessory power feed. Circuits 832 & 833 look like they are the radio accessory power feeds, so I would think there's a built in relay in the radio. Go with rj's advice to use the window relay using circuit #400 (LB/BK) on the relay for your power source. It's listed as Switching Power.
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Old August 6th, 2004, 01:45 AM
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The LCM grounds 194 to control the Window Relay. It is not a fixed ground point, it is a switched ground, "floating" when not active (see p100-1 of Electrical and Vacuum Manual).

Are we having fun yet?

Moved from Town Car Forum.

[ August 06, 2004: Message edited by: rj ]
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Old August 6th, 2004, 08:18 AM
ManaBurrn ManaBurrn is offline
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Lightbulb

I'll go by Radio Shack and get this $2 relay: 0.5-Amp SPST Reed Relay at 12VDC

If I figure it out, I'll let you guys know how I did it

(please correct me if I'm wrong - I've never taken an electronics course) It looks like it's a "Normally Open relay" so when the 1V goes to it it will close, closing the battery circuit and opening the acc circuit. When the door is opened, the 1V turns to 0V, opening the battery circuit and closing the acc circuit (which is already 0v), effectively turing the radio off. Sooo....

ground: black
open: acc
closed: batt
switch: pink
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Old August 6th, 2004, 11:43 AM
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You need a SPDT (single pole double throw) like Radio Shack's 275-248

You have the logic pretty well in hand. It is important to use a diode (like a 1N4003 276-1102) on the coil. Banded end is negative, which goes to the +12v side of the coil. You should solder leads to the relay, mark the leads, and insulate the connections, ideally with shrink tubing.

I would make these connections in a standard aftermarket adapter cable that plugs into the harness connector and wires to the aftermarket radio.



[ August 11, 2004: Message edited by: rj ]
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Old August 6th, 2004, 12:28 PM
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RJ... would one of the Delayed Accessory Power Modules from a Mark 8 work also? Probably more expensive anyway, unless you get one from a salvage yard.
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Old August 6th, 2004, 12:38 PM
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It might but I don't have a manual on it.
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Old August 6th, 2004, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by rj:
You need a SPDT (single pole double throw) like Radio Shack's 275-241

You have the logic pretty well in hand. It is important to use a diode (like a 1N4003 276-1101) on the coil. Banded end is negative, which goes to the +12v side of the coil.
OOOOOOOOOOOOhhhhhhh. Is that pink wire a switched GROUND? I've gotta get my meter back out....
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Old August 6th, 2004, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by ManaBurrn:

Is that pink wire a switched GROUND? I've gotta get my meter back out....
Yes.
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Old August 6th, 2004, 02:40 PM
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RJ... would one of the Delayed Accessory Power Modules from a Mark 8 work also? Probably more expensive anyway, unless you get one from a salvage yard.
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Old August 6th, 2004, 03:36 PM
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See answer of post 3 up...
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Old August 6th, 2004, 04:24 PM
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I'm getting in here late and it seems you guys have your solution but I have alot of experience with in car relays and switching circuits and I wanted to throw in my 2 cents. Most after market radios draw more than an amp so those relays won't hold up that you're looking at. Go with the 30a automotive relay here:275-226 and I usually use IN 4001's but the lower peak 4003's are probably better for the diode section. Just make sure the diode is across the coil because when de-energized, the coils will leak down voltage and that's what you're trying to prevent is back voltage from the coil drainning.

I installed a similar circuit in my MK7 that uses pressure switches in the drivers seat to turn the radio on and off. You can open the door, but the radio won't turn off until you get off your butt!.

Something else I've learned over time is to use multi pole relays for longevity. Over time, the contacts become dirty and the relays begin to "chatter" this is basically a given if they are installed long enough. One way to prevent this from becoming an issue is to run the switched circuit threw multiple sets of contacts which will spread the current draw across and lengthen the lifespan of the circuit. even if you lost a set of contacts, the others would still keep the circuit functioning properly.

Mana, you have your contacts reversed acording to the diagram submited by RJ.

open would be Battery
closed would be ACC
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Old August 9th, 2004, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Nick:
Anyone add this to a car that didn't have it originally? I'd love to update my Mark VII.
Check this
link with the three relay solution.
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Old August 9th, 2004, 01:35 PM
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Thanks, RJ!

I'll see how hjard it is to add it. I'd love to have my 18 year old car function like a 2004.
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My Vehicles:
1985 Continental Burgundy
1986 Mark VII LSC Medium Graphite Metallic (1J)
1986 Mark VII LSC Silver Gone
1989 Mark VII LSC Pewter (17) #1- Gone
1989 Mark VII LSC Pewter #2
1994 Mazda Miata Red
1999 Jaguar XJR Anthracite
1999 Dodge Viper ACR Viper Silver
2000 BMW 540iA Biarritz Blue
2001 BMW 540i/6 Jet Black, Dinan Sprinkles

Family Fleet:
1999 Continental Lt. Parch. Gold Met
2000 Continental Lt. Parch. Gold Met
2008 Mercury Sable Light Ice Blue Met
2012 BMW 335Xi
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Old August 10th, 2004, 08:27 PM
ManaBurrn ManaBurrn is offline
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Lightbulb

Okay, got it and it works perfect. Thanks for all the help, guys.

I used:
1 276-1102 1N4003 Micro 1-Amp Diode
1 275-248 10-Amp SPDT Mini Relay
1 270-283A Project Box & PC Board Combo
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Old August 10th, 2004, 08:32 PM
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~I used 22ga(?) stranded, and I should have used 18 ga solid.
~Make sure you have the coil wired up correctly, it won't work reversed.
~I dropped a wire from the head unit space behind the dash and used that to run the wires from the project box back up, and tucked the project box up under the dash.
~Thanks for letting me know about the diode - I never would have know it was needed.
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Old August 11th, 2004, 11:09 AM
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good work...

I updated the detail above with your part numbers.

[ August 11, 2004: Message edited by: rj ]
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Old September 13th, 2017, 02:39 PM
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Hello all,

I know that this thread is really old at this point but I just installed an aftermarket radio in my 2003 Lincoln Town Car Cartier L edition and I miss The functionality of having the radio stay on when the car is shut off until the door opens. I am surprised to have found this thread with such good info in it but I was wondering if anyone still has the schematic diagram for building this relay circuit. I understand the concept but I don't want to me up any of the electronics in my car but doing something wrong. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

-Rob
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