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  #1  
Old September 26th, 2006, 04:59 PM
Don Flenoy Don Flenoy is offline
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Question 98' lincoln mark vlll hub replacement

how do i replace the front hubs on my 98 lincoln mark? there is a metal dust cap covering access to the spindle nut and it says "do not remove it's permanent. "does anyone have any ideas?
  #2  
Old September 26th, 2006, 05:46 PM
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UDL UDL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Flenoy View Post
how do i replace the front hubs on my 98 lincoln mark? there is a metal dust cap covering access to the spindle nut and it says "do not remove it's permanent. "does anyone have any ideas?
It's removable and it's plastic, not metal.

You can buy a new, sealed bearing hub at your F/LM dealer. Don't forget to get a new nut as you need to break the old one while removing as it's a "jam nut" design.
You break it by spreading out the black steel "shell" and then unscrewing each individual nut. If you try to take the whole thing out you could damage the threads in the spindle.

You'll need to get the right size socket (I don't remember the size right off but I have one in the tool box) and a torque wrench. IIRC it has to be torqued to around 190-195 Ft-Lbs. This IS important.

Once you have all the bits and pieces, it takes longer to jack the car up, remove the wheel, the rotor, the calipers, etc than to change the hub.

Ohh, if you're doing the right side (pasenger), as long as you have the wheel off and the car up, this is good time to replace the fuel filter (under the splash liner) and the air intake silencer, AKA water sucker.
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  #3  
Old September 26th, 2006, 09:03 PM
Don Flenoy Don Flenoy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UDL View Post
It's removable and it's plastic, not metal.

You can buy a new, sealed bearing hub at your F/LM dealer. Don't forget to get a new nut as you need to break the old one while removing as it's a "jam nut" design.
You break it by spreading out the black steel "shell" and then unscrewing each individual nut. If you try to take the whole thing out you could damage the threads in the spindle.

You'll need to get the right size socket (I don't remember the size right off but I have one in the tool box) and a torque wrench. IIRC it has to be torqued to around 190-195 Ft-Lbs. This IS important.

Once you have all the bits and pieces, it takes longer to jack the car up, remove the wheel, the rotor, the calipers, etc than to change the hub.

Ohh, if you're doing the right side (pasenger), as long as you have the wheel off and the car up, this is good time to replace the fuel filter (under the splash liner) and the air intake silencer, AKA water sucker.

Thank you very much. I'll give that a try!
  #4  
Old September 26th, 2006, 11:26 PM
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You're welcome. When one hub went bad on my old '98 I replaced them both. Figure that the other has turned just as much as the one that failed so it couldn't be too far behind.
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