freeze/core plug

[thedt]

So i finally found out where im losing coolant. haha
driver-side rear plug. So it looks like i have enough room to remove and replace.

Just a quick question since ive only done plugs on an engine i rebuilt.

Chances of pushing the plug thru when i take a punch to the lip to remove it?
I know its a tapered hole but still has me a bit cautious since if it does go in theres no way im getting it out besides pulling the engine.

Also on each plug they all seem to have some build up on the lower half of them. It can be wiped away by hand so im guessing it isnt some sealant used by the old owner but it might be?

[pkucan]

Not sure about the 91 but this is for a 95TC.

To remove a large core plug, drill a 12.70 mm (1/2-inch) hole in the center of the plug and remove with an Impact Slide Hammer T59L-100-B or T50T-100-A or pry it out with a large drift punch. On a small core plug, drill a 6.35 mm (1/4-inch) hole in the center of the plug and pry it out with a small pin punch. Clean and inspect the plug bore.

Hope it helps

[thedt]

That was my plan if i risk losing it.

But im guessing thats the right way to do it.
Just needed a refresher.

thanks

[pkucan]

You are welcome. Some additional info!

Cup-type core plugs are installed with the flanged edge outward. The maximum diameter is located at the outer edge of the flange. The flange on cup-type plugs flares outward with the largest diameter of the outer (sealing) edge.

CAUTION:
It is important to push or drive the plug into the machined bore by using a properly designed tool. Do not drive the plug into the bore using a tool that contacts the flange. This will damage the sealing edge and result in leakage and/or plug blowout.

Expansion-type core plugs are installed with the flange edge inward. The maximum diameter of this plug is located at the base of the flange with the flange flaring inward.

CAUTION:
It is imperative to push or drive the plug into the machined bore using a properly designed tool. Do not drive the plug using a tool that contacts the crowned portion of the plug. This will expand the plug prior to installation and may damage the plug and/or plug bore.

[thedt]

Thanks. Installing is no problem.

I do think the step by step should say "proper tool/biggest socket that fits within the plug".

since everyone ive never known has just used a socket. haha

just got my fingers crossed that after i put the new plug in it doesnt raise the pressure of the system and make all the other plugs leak.

[thedt]

Yeah looks like they are all bad.

This might be the first time I actually have someone else work on my car. though its probably going to be more then im willing to pay and so am going to have to do it myself, but damn this sucks.

This is like the 3rd worst thing besides a blown head gasket or broken chain. But this is almost worst cuz its a simple fix but i really dont want to pull the engine.


haha just a lil rant.

[pkucan]

I think I'd rather do a head gasket, having done two already as opposed to the core plugs which I have not yet had the pleasure to experience!

Since you are experienced, should save you some $$$$$$.
$$$$$$$ motivate me to do the work myself, after I call the dealer for a price quote!

[thedt]

yea i know ima have to do it myself. Just looked thru the service manual and it looks like 1-2 hours out and another 1-2 in so at what 100/hr. 400 is more then i wanna spend.

But I got to get my AC discharged and then recharged and R-12 is expensive so im guessing thats like a 100 alone.

I didnt really like the plugs i got from autozone either. They seem shallow to me, only about half as deep as the one i pulled out. So i guess ima try to find deeper ones cuz it would really to be hell to put the engine back in and have a leak. haha

If I cant find steel as deep as i like is there anything against the brass? I know they dont rust but im guessing they are not standard to do different heat expand rate or?