This is actually pretty easy and straight forward. First of all get the inside door panel off and take a look at the inner door skin. Put your hand inside the door cavity and locate the window motor.

Feeling between the door inner panel and the motor, locate the heads of the screws that attach the motor to the window regulator assembly. Adjacent to these screw heads, you should notice a dimple in the door inner panel sheet metal. Dimple is about 3/32" in diameter, and about 1/16" deep. There should be three(3) of them, one for each attaching screw.

Using a drill bit, or progressively larger drill bits, or better yet, a piloted 1/2" hole saw (the pilot is a 1/4' drill bit), drill three(3) holes big enough to clear the 5/16" socket required for the screwheads.

Use the 5/16" socket to remove the three screws attaching the window motor assembly to the regulator assembly.

Trace the motor lead wire to the outside of the inner door panel, and disconnect.

Reach inside the door cavity and pull or lift the motor off of the window regulator assembly. Snake it out through the opening that you are reaching in through.

Disassemble the cover from the gear case. Remove the plastic gear assembly from the housing, and clean the grease and nylon debris out of the housing (assuming that this is the failed part of the motor). You might need to re-connect the motor, run it, and spray WD-40 inside to get all the old grease and broken gear teeth out.

Replace the failed plastic gear assembly (this includes the metal drive gear with the correct number of teeth), and re-lubricate with the grease supplied in the kit.

Replace the motor assembly into the door cavity and mount it to the regulator assay. I use one of the devices that is commonly used to extract or pick up small screws or items that have fallen into hard to get at spaces. As you push the plunger forward, the end opens up with four (4) small fingers which can grasp the small screws, and allow you to put them through the holes and start the threads in the housing. Install and tighten all three attaching screws.

Reconnect the electrical connection, and try the motor function.

Assuming everything works, now is a good time to re-lubricate the tracks and slides that everything runs on to correct the tendency to have dry lubricant slow down the up-and-down motion of the window assembly.

Remember, the only thing different on all power window motors from the mid-sixties to the mid- to later 1990's is the housing which establishes right and left, the number of teeth on the output gear, and the electrical connection on the wire harness end changed a few times over the years. The motor portions are all the same.

One other thing to do when the motor is out is to take the armature out of the motor and clean the commutator with emery paper. Once both of these functions are done, you basically have a new motor.