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HEADLIGHT REFINISHING
Submitted by pro-five-oh / 12-05-02
Thanks to Cougar5.0 on the Mercury Cougar Message
Boards for his advice and experimentation…
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Get
those yellow headlights crystal clear! |
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You know the problem:
those headlights are yellow, making it hard to see anything at night.
The trouble is that the Lexan™ lenses get oxidized, much like neglected
paint. The rest of the headlight assembly is usually fine. You should
check for large cracks in the light, and if it looks bad, odds are there
is a good one in a junkyard ($10-$40) if needed. |
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So how do I remove the oxidation?
Headlight refinishing! This takes 20-30 minutes per light, with very little
elbow grease. Yes, it will look brand new when done with care and attention
to detail. Get the list of things given here, though I bet you have some
of this in your garage.
- Hand-held, orbital power sander: I got a Black and Decker unit
from Home Depot for about $30 when I repainted my house. Yes, you
can sand a light by hand, but it will be harder to get a perfect
finish. Remember this yellow stuff is part of the lens!
- 1000 grit sandpaper, 1-2 sheets
- 1200 grit sandpaper, 1-2 sheets
- 1500 grit sandpaper, 1-2 sheets
- Soft terry cloth towels or buffing pads for an orbital buffer
- A strong pair of scissors to cut #5 into square pads.
- Liquid Plastic/Plexiglas cleaner. This can be purchased at any
auto parts store for about $6. It is used to clear up plastic windows
on convertible tops.
- Turtle Wax paste or some highly durable equivalent.
- Access to running water, garden hose, etc.
- A small spray bottle or bowl to hold a cup of water.
- Dust mask to cover your nose and mouth. (optional)
If your local auto parts store does not have the sandpapers, an auto paint
shop will carry them. Once you have acquired the parts, take the lights
off the car. On Mark VII's and other older Fords, four 7/16 ” nuts
attach the lights. On the Mark VIII's and later Fords, the lights are held
on by C-clips that come off by sliding a blade screwdriver into the lip
of the clip. Take the light out of the car. |
The Art of Headlight Refinishing…
Look at the light’s shape, noticing how the lens bends as you move left/right
and up/down.
Familiarize yourself with the orbital sander and notice how its perfectly flat
shape will only sand a small portion of the curved headlight. Keep this
in mind while you examine the light. |
Now cut a piece of 1000 grit sandpaper
and attach it to the sander. With a bowl of water nearby, sprinkle both
the light and the sandpaper with water. Start sanding, using light to
moderate pressure. Remember, the sander is doing all the work! Move the
sander in a slow and smooth “up
to down” motion, matching the up/down curvature of the light. Then
follow up with a smooth and slow circular motion in the same “up
to down” direction. Do not sand in one place; keep the sander moving.
If headlight starts to dry with the sanding, you must sprinkle more water
on it.
Now hose the light down with water. While rinsing, get all the residue
off with your hand. Repeat again with the same sandpaper or a new piece
(same grit) if it is caked with plastic “crud.” This time move
in a slow and smooth “left to right” motion,matching the left-right
curve of the light. Follow up with another slow and smooth circular motion in
the same manner. |
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To summarize:
1000 grit - wet sand left/right and circular motions, rinse, wet sand up/down
and circular motions, rinse.
Next…
Repeat those steps for the 1200 grit, and then do it again with 1500 grit sandpaper.
Once done, you will have a clear headlight that is still rough to the touch.
It needs some plastic polish to give it that wet, glossy look. |
Polish,
Polish, Polish…
Like the sandpaper, cut a piece of cloth into
a square and attach it to the sander. Liberally apply
the plastic polishing liquid to the headlight. |
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Using a similar technique
to the wet sand procedure, run the sander across the light: this time
using moderate to firm pressure. When the entire light is covered with
a “haze&# 8221; of the liquid, use the sander on the light
again: this time with firm pressure. Repeat this paragraph. The light
is now very clear, and has that “wet look.”
Now apply another coat of plastic polish to the light. Let it dry this
time, just like wax on your car’s paint. Using a new cloth on the
sander, buff the polish off. Use light to moderate force. By now you should
see your reflection in the light and the plastic should be slick to the
touch. Repeat this step if desired or if necessary to make sure you have
not “missed a spot.”
Wax on, Wax off… |
Now finish it off with a few coats
of wax. Don’t worry; you have a power tool at your side, so make
it a VERY HEAVY coat of wax.
This is crucial to protecting the finish, and should be repeated at least
one more time. (Depending on how anal you are.) |
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Step back and look at what you have done: that looks like a brand new light!
Reinstall it and you will be shocked at how nice your car looks with shiny
eyes on the front end. Nighttime vision will also be improved.
Finally, remember to wax the lights often, maybe at every oil change. Just
clean the lights with soap and water, dry, and apply the wax while you
wait for the oil to drain out! Now you can be assured of quality lighting
for as long as you own your Lincoln!
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