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BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR REPLACEMENT / 97 TOWN CAR
Submitted by bigmac / 01-24-03

  
OK, I just swapped the blender door on my 97 T/C limo in approximately 2 hours, first time I did it it took 2 days ;-)

Anyway, it's pretty easy and straight forward, and it will save you LOADS of money to do it yourself. If you don't have the right tools and don't feel comfortable, let someone else do it for you! Now, lets roll!








REMOVAL

First, you'll need a garage to fit the car in, because once you've taken off the dashboard, you can't close the doors!
 




Start off by undoing the screw that holds the parking brake, then just pull off (down) the plastic panel under the steering linkage.
 

Unscrew this plate protecting the steering linkage, where all the arrows are below - don't think I missed any there ;-)






Remove the black plastic thingy with the foam on it. It's secured with 2 plastic bolts in the front. Just pull down!
 





Unscrew this strange-looking bar held up with three bolts.
 

Unscrew the steering linkage (4 bolts), saving one bolt until you've disconnected all the cables. Please note that the steering linkage is heavy and when undoing the last screw, it can fall down in your face. (You've been warned!)
 

Unscrew the wiring harness from the multi- connector.
 





And don't forget to disconnect all the cables, there's no chance of mixing them up, so just disconnect.
 
Last thing before loosening the last bolt - unscrew, and unhook the small wire that leads to the gear shift indicator.

  Now it should look like this!





Remove this panel by:
  1. Prying off the black frame behind the hood handle
  2. Removing the black panel on the left side of the drivers seat (1 inch of that panel shown in the bottom of this pic)
  3. Unscrewing the screw under it. Then just pull the panel off

NOTE:  you have to do this step on the right side as well!
 



Remove that bolt! Don't forget the one behind the dashboard.

NOTE: You'll need a toolset which has a *cardan link on it - very important!! Also note that you have to repeat this step on the right side of the dashboard as well (but there is only one bolt there (the bottom one)

*universal joint, flex-joint or swivel
 





Pull (or gently pry) this long panel off. It's connected to a solar sensor in the right end, just disconnect it and put the panel in the back seat for storage. Behind it you'll find 5 bolts. Remove them!
 




These bolts will be found behind the glove compartment. You'll have to get that compartment in its lowest position by pushing on the sides so that the black tabs pass by the edges (did anyone understand that?) When removing these bolts, the dashboard will fall down a bit - make sure it does not rest on the glove compartment!
 





Ahhh .... there's my baby. By grabbing on top of the dashboard and just pulling with your whole weight (hey, you ate those nasty burgers for a reason!) you'll see that the actuator will be exposed.
 

Disconnect the actuator and remove those 2 screws in the front. Due to the nature of the car, it's extremely difficult to reach the rear ones. You can try by cutting away some of that black insulation over the actuator, but the easiest thing to do is just to break it!

INSTALLING THE NEW ACTUATOR
Your new actuator will only be held down with 2 screws instead of 4, but it will make no difference at all! Please note that if you break the old one, the front (broken off) tabs will still be present, and you'll have to cut those 2 from your new actuator in order to make it possible to mount it again.

When putting everything back together again, it's a wise idea to start off by trying to hang the dashboard back on it's rightmost bolt, and then working on the left side, and finally the support bar in the glove compartment.


Good luck to you all!

- bigmac
Fredrik Grufman (Sweden)
 
Note:  You may or may not need to unbolt the steering column from the instrument panel (but you would need a pal to help you lift it all back in!)
 

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