Do the rear door lock motors of your classic 70's Lincoln make all the right noises but the locks do not open or close? It could be that the two rubber grommets the lock motor pivots on have deteriorated and are lying in the bottom of your door. I do not know if the rubber grommets are available separately as up to now I have only been able to find complete lock motor assemblies.



To replace a rear door lock motor from a 70's Continental you will only need a few basic hand tools:

• 1 Philips screwdriver
• 1 medium flat bladed screwdriver
• 1 trim clip removal tool (a large flat blade screwdriver will do)
• 1¼ drive socket wrench set
• 1 small hammer
• 1 punch
• 1 electric drill with a ¼ inch bit
• 1 7/16 inch spanner (wrench)
  

To repair the lock motor mount as I did you will need some more advanced workshop tools: 1 Pillar drill with 1/8 inch drill bit 1 MIG Welder 1 hacksaw (not advanced, I know) 1 file (also not too advanced!) New parts required: 1 door lock motor (aftermarket pictured) 1 ¼ x ½ inch bolt 1 ¼ inch plain washer 1 ¼ inch nut 1 3/8 x 1 ½ inch bolt (if you are going to repair the lock motor mount)

I am repairing the rear window motor in my 79 Continental but I have it on good authority (from pro-five-oh) that this procedure will suit all 70's big Lincolns. Although the lock motor assembly pictured is listed as only for 77- 79 Lincolns, it could be there is only a slight difference from the earlier models, such as the wiring connector.

First remove the door trim panel as outlined in this TECH TIP.

The picture to the left shows my door lock motor still mounted in the door. Notice the mounting bracket "cocked up" at an angle and one of the motor pivot spindles jutting out from the left side of the lock motor.

Next using your hammer and punch drive out the rivet center securing the lock motor to the door sheet metal, then drill out the rest of the rivet with a ¼ inch drill bit. The picture to the right shows the lock motor mounting rivet (circled) under the door catch mechanism.

Now prepare to wipe off all the grease from the window guide rod with your sleeve.  :-)

Reach into the door going behind the window guide rod and grab the lock motor, lift the lock motor up and pull away from the catch mechanism, this unhooks the crank at the end of the motor from the catch mechanism, pass the motor through the hole in the door into the outside world and then unplug the wiring connector, you will also need to fish the motor mounting bracket out of the bottom of the door.

The picture to the left shows my lock motor, mounting bracket and the remains of the two rubber mounting grommets.

Before fitting your new lock motor, give the catch mechanism a good dousing with WD-40, work the door handles and lock linkage a dozen or so times (screw the lock knob back on) to make sure everything is nice and free, then give the mechanism a few good squirts of engine oil - this will make sure it's good and lubricated.

Now with your new lock motor in hand reach into the door and hook the actuating rod into the plastic grommet on the catch mechanism and let it hang. Next pick up your ¼ inch bolt and with some one-handed dexterity push the bolt into the hole in the lock motor mounting bracket, then manipulate the bolt through the door sheet metal and spin on the nut (with the washer on first). There is enough clearance between the door and door jamb for the nut not to foul, but please check by carefully closing the door as you may need to file a little of the bolt off depending on your particular door adjustment. Now reconnect the wiring connector making sure the window cannot snag it when it is lowered.

If you are going to repair your lock motors as I did, mount the 3/8 inch bolt upright in a pillar drill and drill a 1/8 inch hole down the center of it, next cut the bolt in half.

Now place the lock motor in the mounting bracket and push each half of the 3/8 inch bolt (with the hole in it that you have just made) through the bracket and onto the motor pivot spindles. Then tack them in place with your MIG welder. Try not to get to much heat into the lock motor - I had a bucket of water handy to quench it in. DO NOT immerse the lock motor - just the bracket - enough to take away the worst of the heat. When you have done both sides cut off the excess bolt sticking out and file to a professional finish. Before refitting the lock motor assembly lube the actuating rod screw and motor pivots with a spot of engine oil, then refit the lock motor assembly as detailed above.


The left picture above shows my repaired lock motor with the pivot repair circled in red and the lock rod screw circled in blue. The rubber gaiter was in tatters so I binned it. The picture to the right shows my repaired lock motor remounted in the door.

Refit your door trim and sit back with a smug grin that your power door locks are now the smoothest in the land!


Happy motoring -


Dereck