For those with OD troubles,
it seemed that when your AOD dropped OVERDRIVE out of the blue there was
only one hope - rebuilding the tranny. I admit that I rebuilt my own tranny
after losing OD...
However, I don't think an overhaul is the first solution we should explore. I
lost OD, and had bad shifting problems. When overhauling my AOD I found the internal
clutches were burnt - but not fried. I found that my shifting problems were related
to the governor on the tail shaft mostly, and partly the VB (valve body). They
both were really gummed up with crap to the point that some valves on both wouldn't
move. These two HUGE malfunctions can be fixed without dropping the tranny.
As for the OD going out: I found my valve body
in bad shape with crap making
all the valves sticky, which lead to shift problems. The OD band was a little
burnt, but not so badly it was mandatory to replace. This led me to think the
OD servo must be crapped up as well. Sure enough, the OD "B" servo
was gunked up and hard to move. If I hadn't replaced the servo I
would have had to DIG the shit out of the cap - it was that thick.
(I assume this crap accumulates on those 3-day vacation drives in
OD!)
Shifting feel: It is my observation that a good cleaning of both the VB and the
OD servo would obviously help bring back overdrive. Since the VB takes care of the shifting, if
it was cleaned and back in operation it would also (obviously) cure poor shifting characteristics.
The VB can be scary if you disassemble it completely, and I found NO reason to dismantle it all the
way, just to clean it up. Sticky valves can be fixed and the junk will dissolve with carb
cleaner. This route for OD resurrection is damn near FREE when compared to an overhaul!!
And it can be done in your own driveway!
Tranny doesn't know when to shift: If your AOD doesn't shift down or shifts erratically,
then your governor is suspect. This is what my tranny was doing also telling me to rebuild.
The governor is what tells the stock VB when to shift. I found my governor stuck - not moving
at all. This would be why the tranny wanted 3rd gear for take off - it was stuck at 50mph.
It also conflicted with VB pressures, making it HUNT for gears. The governor is easy to
fix, but getting there is another story. It does require you to drop the driveline and
exhaust from the primary collectors. Once this is done you are half way there. Six more bolts
and pop goes the tail shaft where you will find only the governor and speedo gear - nothing else!!
If your tranny slips in gear (like the clutches are not grabbing or pressure is not
high enough to stop the slippage) then the tranny will most likely have to be rebuilt.
But if the tranny holds gears fine and seems to have smooth acceleration, I don't think
a tranny overhaul needs to be in your fiscal future - not yet at least.
If you explore one or more of these routes to solve your tranny problems there
are a few things I suggest -
- If you are cracking the VB out and maybe even cleaning the OD servo you
might think about purchasing a new OD servo. Ford sells the best "A" servo
for about $75. Or, you could just clean your "B". If you buy
a new one it is just one spring-clip-away from a stronger OD so I do suggest
this since it is so easy to do.
- Since you have the VB off, put in a shift kit. Baumann sells a simple shift
kit that will help your tranny and make you happy with your resurrected tranny.
- Clean up the VB underside of the tranny itself. This could get messy, but
the more you clean the better off you are. Trannies love CLEAN!
- Before you put the pan back on, clean it well and place a common household
magnet in the bottom to collect metal in the future. Of course use a new
filter and good tranny fluid when you are done.
FORD sells AOD valve bodies from $80-$100. After cleaning my old VB I accidentally
messed up the 3-4 accumulator valve enough that it wouldn't even go back in the
hole. I opted for a new VB - this was a good choice because they come with the
BEST Ford updates already installed. The Lincoln-shift-feel requires softer or
even absent springs. The new FORD VB's have all the springs and good stuff. Plus
you don't have to clean it - just bolt it up!
Maybe some of you guys are tranny experts - I am not. This info is just to help
any of you save some green. Like I said, it only takes time and not that much
money. You might spend $200 on ALL of the stuff I mentioned before you are done
- the good thing is, if it doesn't work (but I'm sure it will) you have:
- A new or at least cleaner VB that will be one less step if you overhaul
- A shift kit that will also go back into your tranny if you overhaul
- A new "A" servo that will also stay in the tranny if fixed
- The only thing you will lose is time and tranny fluid
So you see, these solutions are just steps to new a tranny and I
would give it a 90% success rate (10% being if your tranny is still
acting up after you do this). As for tranny life, it would be hard
to guess how much longer the tranny will last. It might last forever
or until you sell the car - that would
be just awesome. A shift kit will help the tranny's life also to
eliminate grinding more clutches and bands. Of course, if the clutches
and bands are really fried (you can't tell) then the performance
options you do may (
may) speed up
the damage - but I doubt it. I don't recommend any of this on a
tranny you have not driven - a.k.a. a mystery tranny. If your OD just went out yesterday
or last month these options are your best bet, so take advantage of them. If
your OD went out last year or you have gone long enough to do an oil change or
two - you might have some roosted shit in there, so be cautious. But
most of you should have no problems with the methods I have specified.
By request - Things To Watch Out For
- Be careful with the tail housing gasket
when going into the governor assembly.
If you mess it up, just use silly-cone
(RTV). It would make life easier without
tearing it in the first place, though.
- There are two ways to do the governor:
the complete way is to take the whole governor
off the tail shaft, including the counterweight.
If you do this the governor is held on
by a snap ring, before you pull it rotate
the tranny so the governor bolts are pointed
DOWN. Unsnap, pull governor back.
The governor is held in rotation by a ball
bearing. This ball is OPPOSITE of the bolts,
on the side with the counterweight, so
it is hiding up in a little hole that is
now facing up - reach up there and pop
it out. And when you reinstall the
governor make sure you line up the 2 feed
holes, don't get it backwards. The governor
is not
"tight" fitting, it has slop
- don't worry. If you wish not to mess
with the ball bearing and snap ring, just
unbolt the governor assembly (2 10mm).
If you do this - make sure you know which
way it faces when you reinstall - I believe
the FORD P/N# goes towards the tranny.
- DRIVELINE - make sure you install the
driveline back to the pinion exactly how
you found it. I suggest using a marking
TOOL or metal saw to identify how the two
line up. It will drive like a marital sex
device if you don't. :-)
- Make sure you bolt up the VB with the
linkage in the right place, it isn't hard,
but if you get it wrong you will be missing
some gears - and some more fluid/time.
- If you take any of the VB valves out
of their bores for super cleaning - DO
NOT SCRATCH THEM. The VB in general is
a "watch out for" item - there
is a LOT of stuff in there. If you take
your time and do it all in one setting
it isn't tough. For sticky valves - use
a plastic screwdriver handle to tap on
the VB in all directions till the valve
moves freely. What this does is beat the
impurities into the aluminum allowing he
valve to move again. Make sure to keep
track of the component layout/stacking
in the VB - this is a MUST!!
- After taking out the OD servo, the OD
band will spring away from the servo pin.
Don't worry - look up in the hole and find
the spot the pin pushes on. You can move
the band around inside the tranny through
holes in the bottom with a screwdriver.
Over by the gear selector is a large orifice
you can use to push it back over to where
you want it - install the servo/spring/cover
- let go of screwdriver, if the band stays
where it should - put the snap ring in.
This may take 2 peoples and some time.
- Last but not least - open sores do not like
carburetor cleaner - and believe me, you
will be using a lot of it and your cuts
and scrapes will let you know about it.
I am not a tranny pro, nor am I even certified
- but experience sometimes counts for more
than book learning. Who knows, I might have
just flipped the AOD community upside down.
. . tranny shops will be run out of business.
. . okay, I doubt it, but at least they won't
be taking YOUR money so soon!