When I first saw the ads on TV about some of the chain transmission shops out with a new procedure for flushing the transmission, converter, etc, I did a little thinking and research.

I ended up discovering that it's fairly easy to do it at home, just about easier than a conventional trans fluid change if you factor in manually draining the converter where the biggest percentage of fluid resides, anyway, and so should also be changed when the filter is changed.

First, do the conventional filter swap. I always use carb spray to clean the bolts and the bolt holes, blow or air dry them (to remove all oil), then use a little medium strength blue Loctite and carefully torque to specs. I've never developed a trans pan leak or even a seep when I do this. After making sure the pan rails are flat (a short piece of 3/8 flat steel on edge in a vise makes a good anvil for flattening the pan rails around the bolt holes), I put about 6 quarts of fluid in the trans, and disconnect the lower of the two trans cooler lines (the return) on the right side of the trans case and arrange a drain pan under it. I then have an assistant start the engine, leaving it at idle, and watch the fluid as it pumps out of the loosened line. I let about 3 or so quarts pump out at most, then have the engine shut off and refill with about the same amount pumped out. As the trans holds about 11 quarts, I do this 3 +/- quart pump-out and refill twice, then check it at idle after holding the brake and shifting thru the gears, adding fluid until it shows on the stick a little bit under the "ADD" mark.

After driving it to warm the fluid to normal temp, I again check and top off as necessary (or drain a little if needed). I put in a drain plug in my pan - these are available I believe at a good auto parts, I think I got mine thru Art Carr or Summit online - and are a most handy addition and and easy to install, just drill a hole in the bottom and bolt it in (I put mine in the left rear corner).

The advantage to doing this is that the trans then pumps clean fluid through the entire transmission, the converter, the lines, and the cooler in the radiator, flushing out all the old fluid and wear particles/contaminants that otherwise would be left in the valve body and other passages in the trans itself, out of the converter - to some degree even if you drain the converter - out of the lines, and out of the cooler in the radiator which is especially prone to collecting wear particles. 

It's quite easy to tell when all the old fluid has been pumped out as the color changes very quickly from somewhat dark to a bright fresh clean looking fluid. I haven't timed it, but it takes maybe 20 + seconds to pump out at or near 3 quarts. I always get 1 extra quart to be sure of having enough. 

I've done this twice since my rebuild after the TV bushing crumbled and the TV cable fell out (I always try to change fluid at 50k) and have had absolutely no problems. I've got hi- performance frictions and steels in my clutch packs, extra discs in the direct clutch pack, the "A" overdrive servo along with a high performance Art Carr band, and a Baumann shift kit so it does shift firmer than stock. At my last change, there honestly was less than ¼ teaspoon of the usual sludge from normal clutch friction plate wear in the pan.




Good luck!

- macx