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Submitted by Southern MD LSC / 03-05-05


As we all know, it would be great if we could put SN-95 spindles on our cars so we can take advantage of the many suspension/brake upgrades available to the Mustangs. The problem with this upgrade is the ball-joint. Ours is much bigger then the SN-95 ball-joint and the spindles just won't fit down far enough to get the castle nut on. One of the solutions, short of removing the air suspension and installing Mustang control arms, is to have a sleeve fabricated and welded in at the local machine show. My solution is much easier and less costly but, in either case, you'll need to replace you stock struts with Mustang struts. You'll find that the Mark VII strut is too tall and will not mount to the new spindles.

Tools You Will Need
  • Ball joint press: Auto Zone will lend you one free of charge if you buy the new ball joints from them. You simply pay for the kit and, when it's returned, they'll refund your money.
  • Hole saw: 1 7/8 to 2 inch. I used a 2-inch.
  • Metal cutters (tin snips)
  • A good exhaust pipe cutter. I used a chain cutter; they cut real straight and easy.
  • Various hand tools: hammers, wrenches, sockets, etc.
You Will Need The Following Supplies:
  • Small piece of sheet metal.
  • Small piece of exhaust pipe, 1 7/8" ID X 2" OD. I bought mine from Auto Zone, part number 17527.
  • Penetrating oil.
  • Emery cloth.
  1. Remove the stock ball-joint.
  2. Clean up the hole and A-arm.
  3. Using the hole saw, cut two holes in the sheet metal.
  4. Using the snips, cut around each hole 1/4" larger than the hole. You'll end up with what looks like a big washer. Make two of these.
  5. Using the exhaust pipe cutter, cut two 1/2" lengths off of the exhaust pipe.
  6. Clean off the burs and smooth the ends of the two 1/2' pieces of pipe. Bevel one side of each at approximately 45 degrees.
  7. Cut the two pieces of pipe at an angle so that it can expand and contract around the ball joint. Clean/smooth edges of the cuts. (See picture)
  8. Cut two 1/2" strips of sheet metal. These must be cut straight. Clean/smooth edges.
  9. Wrap the sheet metal around the remainder of the exhaust pipe to shape it. I used vise grips to hold one end and wrapped it around slowly being careful not to crimp it. Try tapping it with a small hammer as you go. Be careful to wrap it straight.
  10. Wrap the sheet metal strips around one of the ball joints and cut the length so that the ends don't touch when it's wrapped tightly.
  11. Now, carefully insert the 1/2" sheet metal strip into the 1/2" exhaust strip being careful not to crimp either one. The opening of each should be lined up with each other. (See picture)
  1. If you've put them together with NO crimps, great! Now, put the sheet metal washer on the ball-joint and slowly slide the spacers over the rubber boot and onto the ball-joint.
  1. This is the hard part. You may want to find a helper. Hold the assembly, squeezing the spacers tightly together, while trying to start the ball-joint into the A-arm hole. Try tapping lightly with a hammer to get it as straight as possible.
  2. Once you get the ball-joint started and it's as straight as you can get it, press it in with the ball-joint press.
  3. It will stop as soon as it reaches the sheet metal washer you cut. The ridge on the ball-joint won't actually fit through the hole in the A-arm. Installing the sheet metal washers just gives you a good reference point as to how far to press the ball-joint into the A-arm.
  1. If you have decided to keep the anti-lock brakes, you'll have to cut the bracket as shown and mount it into the lower bolt of the Strut. I'll post more about the Anti-Lock Brakes later.
There you go! As you can see, the ball-joint fits very tightly into the A-arm and won't come out anytime soon.

Install your new struts and you're now ready for all of those great modifications that only the Mustang guys have been privy to - until now!



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