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1995 - 2002 DRYER SERVICE/SCHRADER VALVE INSTALL
Submitted by aristo1963 & pro-five-oh / 04-27-05

  


One thing I do not like about my 1996 Continental is not being able to add air to a failed system. Not only that, but the small but annoying air leaks at the dryer connections were getting to me. So I said to myself "Self, how would you fix this?"

I thought about it and this was my solution!



Parts You Will Need
  • Schrader valve.
  • Two 3/16" screw-in compression fittings.
  • Appropriate drill bits and taps for the valve installation. The Schrader valve I bought has a ½" threaded base and the compression fittings have 1/8" threaded bases.

Dryer Servicing (Optional but Highly Recommended)

Since you are in there, go ahead and service the dryer first. Servicing the dryer literally adds years to the life of your compressor! This will require removing the dryer (being careful not to damage it). Place it in a vise and using a large adjustable wrench, unscrew the dryer top. Before you take it off completely, stand it straight up so the desiccant beads won't fly out. Holding pressure on the dryer, unscrew and lift off the top, watching for the spring underneath.

Remove the spring and perforated plate, then pour out the desiccant into an oven pan and bake until blue and done. McMaster's blue beads say 254° for 12 hours, but I did it for 254° for 6 hours. Clean any rust off the plates. I replaced the 2 pads with free breathing filter material available from a hardware store like Lowe's. I also removed the micro screens as they were very nasty. These screens are 3 pieces: 2 screens and an orifice. I cut the bad screens out and replaced them with stainless (rust free) micro-faucet screens from Lowe's. Set aside the parts and get your dryer top.

Install the Schrader Valve
  1. I drilled the hole for the Schrader valve right through the top dead center of the dryer top. Through the channel created by the hole, thread this hole with the appropriate tap. Mine was for a ½" valve.


    2. Turn the dryer top on its side and VERY CAREFULLY CENTER AND DRILL OUT THE 2 METAL RINGS in the line connectors. I used a drill bit that fit inside the rings exactly to line them up and used smaller to larger bits to carefully drill them out so as to not oversize them. Tap at 1/8"; the hard parts are done.
  1. Use Teflon tape and screw in your Schrader valve. The 1/8" base was a bit loose for my liking so for added strength I coated the thread in JB Weld before I screwed them in tight. The JB sealed them very well, making it permanent.



  1. As an added measure of strength I mixed up enough JB Weld to fill the bottom channel level with the Schrader valve. I positioned the spring in place and poured it in, making a very robust dryer cap with a Schrader valve and no leaky fittings.
  2. After the JB Weld cures put it all back together (don't forget the dryer top o-ring) and reinstall in the car.


Slip the caps and ferrules from the compression fittings on the lines and thread them on securely.

You are now done! I used a bad relay to make the system ready but stop the compressor from running. When I heard the clicks from the solenoids I added the compressed air at my new Schrader valve and the front came right up, and the back followed.


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