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Remove
the motor housing only instead of the whole system. This does
not take as long and it is easier to repair the most common
broken part. Help #74410 gets you the nylon power window regulator
gear plugs. At $6.00 it's a deal and you won't have to replace
the original motor (if it's still making noise). For Canadians
I got it at AutoParts Extra. Many jobbers stock the
"Help" line though.
(All material below is by written
permission of "Sixlitre from the Fullsize Bronco forum".
Nothing has been changed from the authors original writing
except miss-spellings. The procedure was done on a 1990 Lincoln
Town Car but is similar to many Ford products from 1990 to
1997)
Tools You Will Need
- 1 ¾” cap screw (part OEM-723-3018)
- #2 Phillips screwdriver
- Power drill and 1/2" drill bit (or 3/4" hole
bit)
- Robertson screwdriver (#3) — Fits No.
12 and larger screws)
- 4) Help products #74410 Window Regulator Gear
Plugs for Ford
- White permanent marker
- Small standard screwdriver (to remove the center
gear)
- Motorcycle chain lube (or WD40)
- Synthetic grease (for the top gear)
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Let's Get Started
Pop the door pull handle trim covers off with a "right
small" screwdriver and stash em' where you won't step
on them.
After this 3rd screw and the
4th one on the inner side are removed you just pull from the
bottom and off comes the door panel.
There was NO WAY I was drilling
out all those rivets and removing the entire lift framework
only to have to re-string the cables and bolt in all the framework
again. I just drilled three half inch holes to expose the Robertson
head motor retaining bolts.
After the three bolts are
out and you've unplugged the motor, just pull the motor out
far enough to get at it. This way you don't have to disturb,
remove or adjust the cables at all.
The motor just pulls separate
of the cable gearbox, which I did not want to mess with anyway
.
Now you and the motor can
head to the bench, leaving the cable gearbox ALONE and untouched.
You're not going to believe how cheap, easy and fast this is
to do! Out comes one Phillips screw.
Everything looks normal
so far. Just to be safe I index marked the gear with the
case, to help reassembly.
In case anything moves I'll
have a reference point to go by. With the center gear off (behind
motor housing on bench) you can see those little nylon gear
plugs have been crushed alright.
The new ones are at the rear
of the photo opposed to the crushed originals closer to you.
Here's a shot of the empty
gear casing. I pre-sprayed the housing with motorcycle chain
lube before dropping in the new nylon gear plugs.
That's all there really is
to the gearbox insides. Not really a bad system especially considering
how cheap, fast and easy the plugs are to change. After slapping
plenty of synthetic grease onto the top gear, It's pushed back
on the shaft indexed to those earlier marks.
Put the cover and one screw back on and bolt it back onto
the cable gearbox through the new holes in the inner door
and you're ready for another 15 years service!
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